Brno

Updated: Oct 30

A swampy city which sparked modernist architecture - Tugendhat Villa in Brno 1052

What and Why

Villa Tugendhat is an architecturally significant building in Brno, although it does look very old-school now, as this is so much replicated. The bungalow was built in the late 1930s CE and became immediately a pioneering prototype of modern architecture in Europe, exhibiting functionalism and minimalism. It embodies innovative spatial and aesthetic concepts that were developed in housing at that time to meet the new needs arising from the modern way of life, by taking advantage of the opportunities afforded by modern industrial production. The villa was designed by the German architects Mies Van der Rohe and Lilly Reich for the Tugendhat's family. It quickly became an icon of modernism, with global influence and impact like Villa Savoye in Poissy, blogged earlier.

Toponymy

Brno derives from Old Czech brnie meaning muddy.

See

Villa Tugendhat

The free-standing three-storey villa is built on a slope and faces the south-west. The villa is definitely for the rich and includes living and social areas, conservatory, terrace, and huge the kitchen and servants' rooms, as indicated in the floor plan.

Tugendhat villa floor plan (from internet)

Van der Rohe's design principle of 'less is more' and emphasises early functionalist architecture, a ground-breaking new vision during the time. In fact during the time of construction everything inside the villa is considered revolutionary, but as mentioned it does look old-school now after almost 90 years.

There is no defined room inside the entire villa. The living 'room' and the other areas are ill-defined and the walls are not enclosing, more like various discontinued partitions around one consecutive space. The villa also intends to erase the border between the outdoors with the indoors, where the walls facing the lawns are all glass.

The architect also designed the interior as well as the various furnitures. One of those is the famous Tugendhat chair, the ubiquitous cantilever chair. Unusual for the time, the building features modern air-conditioning with a glass facade. All these are now commonplace nowadays.

Vegetable Market (Zelný Trh)

The vegetable market (Czech : Zelný Trh) is one of the oldest open markets in Europe. Underneath the market there, one can enter an underground labyrinth, a unique system of underground passages and cellars from the Middle Ages. The square is dominated by a monumental Baroque fountain and the Holy Trinity Column (Sloup Nejsvětější Trojice), as above, which sits in front of the Palace of the Žďár Abbot (Palác Opata Ždárského Kláštera).

Capuchin Crypt (Kapucínská Hrobka)

The Capuchin Crypt (Kapucínská Hrobka) is a funeral room mainly for Capuchin (Latin : Capuccinorum) friars, similar to the one we visited later in Palermo. The crypt was founded in the mid 17th century CE in the basement of the Capuchin Monastery. As expected no photographs.

Cathedral of Saint Peter and Paul (Katedrála Svatých Petra a Pavla)

Sitting on top of a small hill in the centre of Brno, the Baroque cathedral is a national cultural monument and one of the most important pieces of architecture in South Moravia (Jihomoravský). The cathedral can be seen from afar as it is highlighted by its impressive 84-metre-high towers.

One can access to the top of the spire and get a panoramic view of the city, together with seeing the church chiming bell.

Freedom Square (Náměstí Svobody)

The modern centre of the city, the Freedom Square (Náměstí Svobody) is the main congregation area of city with the Holy Trinity Column as in other European cities.

The symbol of Brno is the Brno dragon (Brněnský drak), which is actually a fat crocodile hanging on the top of the entrance of the town hall.

The town centre contains a phallic symbol, which is actually a modern astronomical clock (Brněnský orloj). This is one chronometer that I really cannot figure how it works.

Eat and Drink

Czech cuisine (Česká kuchyně)

Czech cuisine (Česká kuchyně) is more meat-based compared to other cuisines. Usually the meat is well marinated to a point of very salty and served with Czech dumplings (knedlíky) which actually looks like a thick bread slice. The dumplings are made with either wheat or potato and sometimes mashed with some meat pieces, as below.

The other main Czech dish is schnitzel (ř ízek) which is a deep-fried piece of pork, veal or chicken.

Another staple consumed in Czechia is halušky, which are tiny dumplings served in a mess of melted cheese. We had our dinner at Zelená Kočka, an honest restaurant which serves good food. Of course some of our orders turned out to be different due to our language inability.

Stay

We stayed in an ultra modern space-ship looking hotel called Sono Centrum, which is a music-disco-themed hotel. The hotel is shaped like a golf-ball and hence the room design can be a bit awkward.

Getting There and Around

Brno is the second largest city in Czechia, so transportation is very accessible. Within the city, everything is well connected with public transportation. A good day for a visit.

Clearly we drove to Brno during our road trip. On the way to Brno, there are plenty of maize and wheat fields around. For urban people this can be quite a treat and photospot.