Lyon
- Maximus Nostramabus
- Feb 20
- 12 min read
Updated: Mar 26
Historic and gastronomic centre of France with hidden corridors - Historic Site of Lyon 872; Belfries of Belgium and France 943; Gastronomic meal of the French 00437; Artisanal know-how and culture of baguette bread 01883
What and Why
Against common beliefs, the gastronomic centre of France is not Paris, but Lyon. So much that Lyon is inscribed as the UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy. The city has apparently more restaurants per capita than any other cities in France, way more than Paris. Aside from its fame in the culinary scene, it is also a major historic trade centre, playing a crucial role in the silk industry during the Renaissance and later in the banking and printing industries, and in more modern times, cinema. As a major trade centre and a former provincial capital, it houses a beautiful spectrum of building styles, and exhibits well-preserved architecture spanning different periods, from the Middle Ages, Renaissance to the modern.
Toponymy
The name Lyon derives from its Gallic form Lugdon, which was later abbreviated as Luon. The name was latinised as Lugdunum during the Roman Empire (Latin: Imperium Romanum) times. The stem 'lug' means 'light' or 'crow' while the stem 'dun' refers to 'hill' from the Latin word 'dunos'. The name probably points to the hill at Fourvière, where the city was founded.
See
Lyon is built around the confluence of two rivers: the more famous Rhône in the east, and the Saône in the west. The main historic sites are located around the two banks of Saône, and the area of Presqu'île, the small strip of land between the two rivers.
Rue Saint-Jean, Rue du Bœuf
Rue Saint-Jean, as picture above, and the parallel street Rue du Bœuf, nestled in the heart of the city, are two iconic thoroughfares steeped in history and culture. These two enchanting streets wind through the city's vibrant Old Town (French: Vieux Lyon), where their cobblestone paths and mediaeval architecture transport visitors back in time. The streets are adorned with charming artisanal shops and delightful cafes along the old buildings, this street captures the essence of Lyon's heritage, although many shops are simply tourist traps owned by foreign owners. Rue Saint-Jean was once the political and commercial centre of the city, and until today one of Europe's most extensive Renaissance neighbourhood, and hence Rue du Bœuf would seem comparatively quieter, but probably more attractive.
Palais de Justice
The Palais de Justice is a historic and monumental building located in on the right bank of the Saône. The building is considered one of the finest neo-classical buildings in France and is nicknamed the 'Palace of the twenty-four columns (Palais des vingt-quatre colonnes)'. The building is the courthouse of Lyon.
Saint John Cathedral of Lyon (Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Lyon)
Saint John Cathedral of Lyon (Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Lyon) is a Roman Catholic church dedicated to Saint John the Baptist (Hebrew: יוחנן המטביל, Yôḥānān Hamatbil). The church started its construction on a previous ruined church site in late 12th century CE and took close to 300 years to complete. The cathedral is known for its amalgamated architectural style with a Gothic (German: Gotik) facade but a Romanesque interior. The piazza in front of the church is the main gathering locations for Lyonnais.
In December each year, Lyon holds an annual Festival of Lights (Fête des Lumières). The event dates back to mid 17th-century CE and is to celebrate and appreciate Mary (Aramaic: מרים, Maryam), the patron saint of Lyon. During the week-long festival, every household of Lyon would place a lit candle or lamps in the window, creating an illuminated spectacle around the city. A modern light-show appears on the façade of the cathedral. We did not manage to catch the show as we came during summer.
Manécanterie
Just next to the cathedral stands one of the oldest building of the city, the Manécanterie, aside from those Roman constructions. The name means 'parish choir school' and is part of the cathedral, serving as the dining hall and then the choir school for the church. Built during the 11th century CE, it combines Gothic and Romanesque style, but the facade is predominantly Romanesque. Currently it serves as a small museum for the cathedral.
Traboules
As a major city of France, Lyon does not really own an iconic building to represent the city. On the other hand the genuine architectural icons of Lyon are actually hidden inside buildings, known as the traboules. Traboules are corridors which link streets through a building or a cluster of them, and usually going via a courtyard. Traboules were originally designed to provide shelter for the transport of silk and paper products to avoid them getting wet from rain, with the concept largely influenced by Florence (Italian: Firenze) of Italy (Italian: Italia). Traboules have now become Lyon own unique architectural masterpieces.
Traboules can lead upstairs, or even become subterrain tunnels, but all leads to a central courtyard. A true Lyonnais will know all these traboules to go quickly from one building to another, through another. While most traboules are part of private properties and apartments, most of them are open for tourist visit or public access during the day.
All traboules are found in the Old Town. The word 'traboule' comes from vulgar Latin 'trabulare' meaning 'to cross'.
Temple du Change
The former stock exchange of the city, Temple du Change was built in the mid-17th century CE. The place is called a 'temple' as it had been taken over by protestants and had been used for worship since the early 19th century CE. The square in front of the monument is another major gathering place for locals.
Gadagne
The Gadagne is a historic building that houses two museums: the Museum of Lyon History (Musée d'Histoire de Lyon) and the World Puppet Museum (Musée des Marionnettes du Monde). The museum ws constructed in the early 16th century CE but was redesigned by the Gadagne family in the mid-16th century CE. The Gadagne family was so rich that inspired a local saying in Lyon: 'rich as Gadagne (riche comme Gadagne)'.
Place Bellecour
While most of the tourist landmarks are located at right bank of Saône, the main city square Place Bellecour is located at Presqu'île. The square is one of the largest in Europe and is fully pedestrianised.
The centrepiece statue is an equestrian statue of Louis XIV (né Louis de Bourbon) accompanied, at his feet, by two allegorical statues of the Saône and the Rhône.
The only reason why I came to this square is simply to accompany my wife to visit the concentration of luxury shops around the square. Similar to many tourist spots nowadays, there is a big ferris wheel in the square which many locals consider an eye-sore.
City Hall (Hôtel de Ville)
The City Hall (Hôtel de Ville) of Lyon is a classical historic monument. While it is the city main landmark, its special feature lies on its belfry. In 2005 CE, its belfry was added to the WHS under Belfries of Belgium and France.
Salle Rameau
Salle Rameau is a beautiful municipal hall that used to serve as the city's main concert hall. The spectacular facade decoration has two mosaics, one representing Polymnia (Greek: Πολυύμνια), daughter of Mnemosyne (Greek: Μνημοσύνη) and Zeus (Greek: Ζεύς), muse presiding over hymns and pantomime; and the other Euterpe (Greek: Εὐτέρπη), muse presiding over music.
Montée du Gourguillon
Montée du Gourguillon is a series of uphill scenic streets that lead from Rue Saint-Jean to the hill at Fourvière. The word 'montée' means 'climb' in French while the word 'gourguillon' derives from the Latin word 'gurgulio', which is an onomatopoeia of the sound of rainwater gushing down the slope. The slope brims with a Renaissance vibe and it was said that the entire Lyon silk industry started from one of the streets of this slope. It was claimed that the industry started at Impasse Turquet, a cul-de-sac named after Étienne Turquet, who founded the silk industry in 1536 CE.
Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière (Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière)
Atop the Fourvière mountain stands the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière (Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière), which is a church dedicated to Mary. The church was built int he late 19th century CE through private funding. The name Fourvière came from the French words 'forum vieux' meaning 'old forum' as it was the site of a Roman forum. The basilica architecture is famous for its eclectic styles: it combines Gothic, Romanesque, classical and Byzantine architectures, which is mostly found in the basilica interior. Due to its massive size and four towers, the basilica is nicknamed an upside-down elephant (éléphant renversé).
The basilica is part of the Via Podiensis of the Saint James's Way (Spanish: Camino de Santiago), as blogged in Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, although this basilica does not form part of that WHS.
Metallic tower of Fourvière (Tour métallique de Fourvière)
A 100-m tall metal tower that bears close resemblance with the famed Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel), the tower is actually three years older than the Eiffel Tower. This tower stands near the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière at the highest point of the city.
Ancient theatre of Fourvière (Théâtre antique de Lyon)
There are two well-preserved Roman theatres up in Fourvière, which are the most important remnant of the Roman city of Lugdunum dating back to 15 BCE. The theatre is still used for various cultural festivals.
Buy and Do
Guignol
The puppet show Guignol is a cultural icon in Lyon and represents one of the most famous puppet traditions in the world. Originating in the early 19th century CE from the silk industry, the Guignol puppet theatre is an important performance art that has become an essential part of Lyon’s cultural heritage.
The puppetry was developed by Laurent Mourguet who was a former silk worker in Lyon as a form of street entertainment. Initially a dentist, he used puppetry to distract his young patients and eventually made it his main profession. His theatre contents surrounded the everyday struggles of the working class in Lyon, stemming from Mourguet's own experiences as a silk worker (canut). The plays often contained humour, social criticism, and political satire, making them both entertaining and thought-provoking. Hence the performances were appreciated by both adults and children.
The main character of the show is Guignol, as above, who was designed to represent the Lyonnais working-class spirit of Lyon: financially struggling, but witty, moral and resilient. He is usually accompanied by his wife Madelon and his friend Gnafron. His antagonist is usually the gendarme, who is a representation of authority, often ridiculed in the plays.
Traditional Guignol shows are usually performed in small wooden theatres, featuring colourful sets and exaggerated puppet gestures. The language of the plays is Lyonnais dialect, although modern performances have often adapted to standard French. In a sense, the play has also become the main preservation means of the Lyonnais dialect.
The most famous theatre is Théâtre la Maison de Guignol, easily the best place in Lyon to watch an authentic Guignol performance. A definite unmissable activity in Lyon.
Eat and Drink
Bouchon
Lyon is widely regarded as the gastronomic capital of France, and one of its most cherished culinary traditions is the bouchon. A bouchon is a traditional Lyonnais restaurant that serves hearty, homemade dishes reflecting the city's working-class history. These establishments are not just about food: they represent Lyon’s cultural identity, warm hospitality, and communal spirit.
The bouchon culture dates back to the 17th century CE, when Lyon was a thriving silk production centre. Silk workers needed affordable, hearty meals, which were provided by small, family-run eateries. These eateries were run by mainly women, known as Lyonnais mothers (mères lyonnaises) who played a crucial role in shaping bouchon cuisine. These skilled female cooks, many of whom had worked in aristocratic households, opened their own restaurants later, blending refined cooking techniques with home-style dishes and turned them to modern bouchon dishes.
The term 'bouchon' is believed to come from the old Lyonnais word for a bundle of twigs (bousche), which were hung outside these local eateries to symbol it as a place serving food. Bouchons are generally cozy and lively establishments with a strong sense of community. A signature of bouchons is their red-and-white checkered table-cloths and rustic furnitures. The restaurants are generally small and cheap, with closely arranged tables to encourage communal dining and conversations. Most importantly, unlike typical fine-dining restaurants serving the famed French cuisine (cuisine française), bouchons focus on generous portions and local ingredients and flavours, while the dishes are devoid of elaborate presentations as mentioned in our blogged Reims.
There is a now an official list of bouchons in Lyon, under the certification by L'Association de Défense des Bouchons Lyonnais. These certified restaurants receive the title 'Les Authentiques Bouchons Lyonnais' and are identified with a plaque showing Gnafron, Guignol's gourmand friend. Even with the recent tourist boom, a typical meal from a bouchon would cost only around EUR 20€.
Here is a list of typical must-try Lyonnais bouchon specialties to savour:
Lyonnais salad (salade lyonnais): a salad with mustard dressing;
chicken liver cake (gâteau de volaille);
tablier de sapeur: deep-fried tripe;
quenelle de brochet: ground fish in quenelle-shaped dumpling;
pot-au-feu: beef and vegetable stew;
Saint-Félicien: Lyon local cheese;
angel wings (bugne): crispy ribbon snack.
Travel Suggestions and Logistics
Lyon is well connected with an international airport and its public transport is excellent. Many people also connect Lyon with a trip to Geneva (Genève) or Annecy which is around two hour drive away. It is recommended to spend three to four days to enjoy everything, especially the food in Lyon.
UNESCO Inscriptions
The long history of Lyon, which was founded by the Romans in the 1st century B.C. as the capital of the Three Gauls and has continued to play a major role in Europe's political, cultural and economic development ever since, is vividly illustrated by its urban fabric and the many fine historic buildings from all periods.
Twenty-three belfries in the north of France and the belfry of Gembloux in Belgium were inscribed in 2005, as an extension to the 32 Belgian belfries inscribed in 1999 as Belfries of Flanders and Wallonia. Built between the 11th and 17th centuries, they showcase the Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles of architecture. They are highly significant tokens of the winning of civil liberties. While Italian, German and English towns mainly opted to build town halls, in part of north-western Europe, greater emphasis was placed on building belfries. Compared with the keep (symbol of the seigneurs) and the bell-tower (symbol of the Church), the belfry, the third tower in the urban landscape, symbolizes the power of the aldermen. Over the centuries, they came to represent the influence and wealth of the towns.
The gastronomic meal of the French is a customary social practice for celebrating important moments in the lives of individuals and groups, such as births, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, achievements and reunions. It is a festive meal bringing people together for an occasion to enjoy the art of good eating and drinking. The gastronomic meal emphasizes togetherness, the pleasure of taste, and the balance between human beings and the products of nature. Important elements include the careful selection of dishes from a constantly growing repertoire of recipes; the purchase of good, preferably local products whose flavours go well together; the pairing of food with wine; the setting of a beautiful table; and specific actions during consumption, such as smelling and tasting items at the table. The gastronomic meal should respect a fixed structure, commencing with an apéritif (drinks before the meal) and ending with liqueurs, containing in between at least four successive courses, namely a starter, fish and/or meat with vegetables, cheese and dessert. Individuals called gastronomes who possess deep knowledge of the tradition and preserve its memory watch over the living practice of the rites, thus contributing to their oral and/or written transmission, in particular to younger generations. The gastronomic meal draws circles of family and friends closer together and, more generally, strengthens social ties.
The baguette is the most popular kind of bread enjoyed and consumed in France throughout the year. The traditional production process entails weighing and mixing the ingredients, kneading, fermentation, dividing, relaxing, manually shaping, second fermentation, marking the dough with shallow cuts (the baker’s signature) and baking. Unlike other loaves, the baguette is made with only four ingredients (flour, water, salt and leaven and/or yeast) from which each baker obtains a unique product. Baguettes require specific knowledge and techniques: they are baked throughout the day in small batches and the outcomes vary according to the temperature and humidity. They also generate modes of consumption and social practices that differentiate them from other types of bread, such as daily visits to bakeries to purchase the loaves and specific display racks to match their long shape. Their crisp crust and chewy texture result in a specific sensory experience. The baguette is consumed in many contexts, including during family meals, in restaurants, and in work and school cafeterias. The production process is primarily transmitted through work-based training, combining school courses with work experience in a bakery. This apprenticeship enables future bakers to acquire the necessary knowledge of the ingredients, tools and process.
References
Comments
Please share your thoughts and comments about the blog. If you need suggestions to build a travel itinerary, please let me know. More than willing to help. I would also like to build a bespoke-in-depth travel community around UNESCO WHS and ICH.