An desert oasis blossoming rich civilisations and cultural heritages - Cultural Sites of Al Ain (Hafit, Hili, Bidaa Bint Saud and Oases Areas) 1343; Majlis, a cultural and social space 01076; Date palm, knowledge, skills, traditions and practices 01509; Al Aflaj, traditional irrigation network system in the UAE, oral traditions, knowledge and skills of construction, maintenance and equitable water distribution 01577; Falconry, a living human heritage 01708; Arabic calligraphy: knowledge, skills and practices 01718; Arabic coffee, a symbol of generosity 02111;
What and Why
Al-Ain (Arabic: ٱلْعَيْن, Al-ʿAyn) is one of the world's oldest permanently inhabited settlements in the Middle East due to the existence of the largest oases. Due to the availability of underground water, the city has extensive greeneries and palm groves and hence becomes a major breeding ground of civilisation more than 8,000 years ago. As a result, the region carries significant cultural and historical importance as all historic states would like to take a share of this piece of fertile land, changing hands from Achaemenid Empire (Old Persian: 𐎧𐏁𐏂, Xšāça) to Rashidun Caliphate (اَلْخِلَافَةُ ٱلرَّاشِدَةُ, Al-Khilāfah ar-Rāšidah), to Umayyad Caliphate (ٱلْخِلَافَة ٱلْأُمَوِيَّة, Al-Khilāfah al-ʾUmawīyah) and then to Abbasid Caliphate (اَلْخِلَافَةُ ٱلْعَبَّاسِيَّةُ, Al-Khilāfah al-ʿAbbāsīyah) and thence the city brims with cultural heritages.
One of the most important historic constructions around the city is the underground irrigation network falaj (فلج, al-aflaj) that channels waters from one place to another through underground or surface aqueducts. The systems have been there for thousands of years, and transport waters from boreholes to settlements, water farms and palm plantations. The falaj system is naturally crucial to the civilisation and rightly got itself inscribed as an ICH.
Toponymy
'Al-Ain' simply means 'the spring' in Arabic, connotating both the facts of the existence of water springs and hence oases around the region.
See
Al-Jahili Fort (قَلْعَة ٱلْجَاهِلِي)
Al-Jahili Fort (قَلْعَة ٱلْجَاهِلِي, Qalʿat al-Jāhilī) is one of the historical forts in the city and is built recently in the late 19th century CE. This was built originally for a summer residence for the royal family but was later converted to a fort to protect the local palm farmers. The main feature of the fort is the massive iconic watchtower against the tribal attacks. Today the fort is transformed into a cultural centre that houses a permanent exhibition devoted to the explorer and travel-writer Wilfred Thesiger who, with his Emirati and Omani companions, crossed the Arabian deserts during the 1940s CE.
The structure, together with many palaces in Al-Ain are built by earth. These earthen adobe structures, similar to the those in our blogged Aït Ben Haddou (ⴰⵢⵜ ⴱⴻⵏⵃⴰⴷⴷⵓ) and Taos employed earth as the main building materials as it withstands heat. There is a very sophisticated hydraulic system to circulate water within the structure to absorb the desert heat inside the building.
Al-Ain Oasis (وَاحَة ٱلْعَيْ)
Al-Ain Oasis (وَاحَة ٱلْعَيْن, Wāḥat Al-ʿAyn) is the largest oasis patch in the city around the region and dates back almost 5,000 years of history. Its significance reaches far beyond its greeneries as it serves as a repository of genetic resources, biodiversity and Emirati cultural heritage.
In the oasis, the grove and gardens are sunken with respect to the surrounding and is reinforced with walls, a bit like a closed sandpit. This is to help irrigation because water descends with gravity. Moreover during the time of a rare rain, the water will be collected easily at the sunken site.
The oasis is planted with more than 147,000 date palms, consisting of more than 100 varieties, as well as fodder crops and fruit trees such as mango, orange, banana, fig and jujube. Dates are naturally the holy staple in the Middle East to provide desert travellers and traders enough energy for their journeys. The most common date variety in the United Arab Emirates (UAE, الإمارات العربية المتحدة, Al-ʾImārāt al-ʿArabīyah al-Muttaḥidah) is the dabbas dates. They are golden brown in colour and a little bit dry. Dabbas dates are one of the smallest dates varieties in the world and less sweet. While I do not like dates so much because I find them too sweet, there are also varieties of dates that are almost sugar-free and useful for diabetic diets. Do read the corresponding blog of Aït Ben Haddou (ⴰⵢⵜ ⴱⴻⵏⵃⴰⴷⴷⵓ).
As mentioned, the key to the oasis is the existence of water and its transportation network. Within the oasis, one will see the falaj, which is a system for transporting water from a water well to the surface, through an underground aqueduct. This is an ancient system of water supply which allows water to be transported over long distances, in this case from the Al-Hajar Mountains (جِبَال ٱلْحَجَر, Jibāl al-Ḥajar). Water is usually collected from the well or mountain far from the irrigation sites and then flows through a slightly slanting underground tunnel to transport to the oasis. Since the system is largely underground, there is almost no loss of water to evaporation. The system has the advantage of being resistant to natural disasters and is almost insensitive to the levels of precipitation, delivering a flow with only gradual variations between wet to dry seasons.
The technology of falaj construction and management has been passed on over the years, usually along family lines, and is deservingly inscribed as an ICH. Honestly without it, the oases and hence the civilisation would not have continued to exist.
Sheikh Zayed Palace Museum (مَتْحَف قَصْر ٱلشَّيْخ زَايِد)
Sheikh Zayed Palace Museum (مَتْحَف قَصْر ٱلشَّيْخ زَايِد, Matḥaf Ash-Shaykh Zāyid al-Waṭanī) or simply the Al-Ain Palace Museum (مَتْحَف قَصْر ٱلْعَيْن, Matḥaf Qaṣr Al-ʿAyn) is the city museum converted from the palace of the palace of the former Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan (ٱلشَّيْخ زَايِد بِن سُلْطَان آل نَهْيَان, Ash-Shaykh Zāyed bin Sulṭān Āl Nahyā), the founding father of UAE and its first president. The museum presents generally the life of Arab nomads and is located just next to the Al-Ain Oasis.
Inside the palace, there are many well-decorated guest rooms known as majlis (الديوانية - ديوان, majālis). The word simply means ‘sitting places’ and is where local community members gather to discuss local events and issues, exchange news, receive guests and socialise. Usually a majlis is used as a private place where house guests and friends are received and entertained and since the Arabic hospitality is taken seriously, many families take pride in making their guests comfortable when visiting and make elaborate decorations in their majlis.
While in modern days majlis is the front atrium, in more rural setting the majlis can be a separate tent or a building, co-managed by the tribe and headed by the tribe leader. Usually the seating inside the majlis is regulated with the eldest seated in the middle.
In other forms the majlis is also elevated to a 'council' where community and political problems are resolved. The concept of majlis has now extended to many modern forms in waiting rooms or lounges where the hospitality to the guests or patrons are emphasised. This tradition and setup is iconic to Arabic culture and is hence an ICH.
Hili Archaeological Park (حَدِيْقَة آثَار ٱلْهِيْلِي)
Hili Archaeological Park (حَدِيْقَة آثَار ٱلْهِيْلِي, Ḥadīqat Āthar Al-Hīlī) is the location of a Bronze Age site in Al-Ain. Unfortunately while the park is very pleasant to walk around, there are not that many archaeological artefacts to see inside. Those inside include some settlements, tombs, and falaj.
The main artefact is this circular Hili Grand Tomb with the oryx sign at the doorway.
Hili borders with the city of Al-Buraimi (ٱلْبُرَيْمِي, Al-Buraymī) of Oman (عُمان, Umān), and you literally touch the national border when you walk along the edge of the park.
Al-Qattara Oasis (وَاحَـة الْـقَـطَّـارَة)
Al-Qattara Oasis (وَاحَـة الْـقَـطَّـارَة, Wāḥat al-Qaṭṭārah) is an area of irrigated date palm grove in the city featuring a distinctive falaj. This oasis dates back to 1800 BCE and is now a major archaeological site. Recent extensive surveys have evacuated importantly artefacts from the Bronze Age and some of the buildings are the longest standing structures in UAE.
Jebel Hafeet (جَبَل حَفِيْ)
Jebel Hafeet (جَبَل حَفِيْت, Jabal Ḥafīt), literally meaning 'an empty mountain', is the second highest mountain in the country. Its significance is highlighted by the fact the important discovery of a cluster of important Bronze Age beehive tombs at its foothills.
At the foothills of the mountain, 500 beehive-shaped tombs were excavated during the 1950s CE that dated to 3000 BCE, known as the Hafit period. Inside these tombs ceramic vessels and copper artefacts were discovered. Due to the exceptional archaeological and historical values of these artefacts, especially illustrating the then livelihood in the desert, this site becomes the main reason why Al-Ain got itself inscribed as a UNESCO WHS.
To reach the top of the mountain, one will have to use the Jebel Hafeet Mountain Road (طريق جبل حفيت الجبلي, Tariq Jabal Hafīt Al-Jabalī) built in 1980 CE, which extends for around 12 km up the mountain and rises 1.2 km in altitude. With 60 turns and three lanes (two climbing and one descending), the road is called the greatest driving road in the world by many travelling websites. Once you reach the summit, the prize is a panoramic view over the whole Al-Ain as above.
At the foot of Jebel Hafeet, we met with a number of falconry enthusiasts, as above. Falconry is a traditional activity involving hunting with trained falcons and this is exceptionally highly regarded in UAE. Almost all sheikhs (شيخ, shaykh) practise falconry in some forms and many photographs and portraits show these sheikhs with a falcon.
Falconry, based on releasing the bird to hunt its prey in nature, has evolved through communities as a form social entertainment and a means of interaction with nature. It has evolved to become an expression of freedom, friendship and identity. In fact groups of falconers, usually a dozen of them, are bonded through the sharing of duties and responsibilities of taking care and training the falcons, at the same time exchanging ideas to improve the sport, like a club of brotherhood. As time develops, these clubs of falconers have strengthened the relationship with their birds and their training, and developed a special language between the falconer and the bird.
Falconry is thought to originate from Central Asia but has spread to Middle East and various parts of Europe. The earliest trace of written history about falconry dates back to 4000 years ago from the Middle East, literally since the dawn of civilisation. As a matter of fact, with a total of eighteen countries, falconry is the largest multi-national nomination on the UNESCO ICH list.
Buy and Do
Arabic calligraphy (فن الخط العربي)
Along the many shops in Al-Ain, the one that will catch the eyes are the portraits of Arabic calligraphy (فن الخط العربي, fanu al-khati al-araby), almost sold as an art piece. This artform is the artistic practice of calligraphy based on the Arabic alphabet (الْأَبْجَدِيَّة الْعَرَبِيَّة, al-abjadīyah l-ʿarabīyah). It is known in Arabic as khatt (خط). Due to the nature of the script, Arabic calligraphy has been known and appreciated for its flexibility, diversity and great potential for development.
Arabic calligraphy are determined by five pillars:
Sharpness of the writing tools;
Quality of the paper;
Concentration and focus of the calligrapher;
Strength of the fingers; and
Brightness of the ink.
It must be emphasised, however that Arabic calligraphy does not equate Islamic calligraphy. There are many non-religious or even biblical manuscripts scribed in Arabic, and there are Islamic art form presented in other language calligraphic art. Arabic calligraphy and its appreciation as an art form is now enlisted an ICH. Clearly this is beyond my usual price range for a gift.
Eat and Drink
Emirati cuisine (المطبخ الإماراتي)
Emirati cuisine (المطبخ الإماراتي, Al-matbakh al'iimaratiu) is the local traditional Arabic cuisine (المطبخ العربي, al-matbakh alearabiu) of UAE. The traditional food of the UAE uses much meat, in particular mutton and chicken, and dairy. Vegetables such as cucumbers and tomatoes, are strongly featured in the diet. Many of the dishes are like stews, as everything is often cooked in a single pot. The food, plus rice will then be transferred to the plate and be served.
The interesting part of the Emirati cuisine is not the diet, but rather the way to eat the meal. In an authentic restaurant, the food is actually served on the floor and there are no tables or chairs. The patrons just sit on the floor and scoop the food from the plate, as above. Men and women are not supposed to be seated and women are being located in a different room.
Moreover all food is supposed to be shared. If one orders two or three dishes from three people, they will be merged into one big plate, and everyone will scoop from the big plate, mixing the meat and the rice and sharing the dish together. After a while, the entire dish will become a gumbo with all saliva mixed into the plate. To show brotherhood and hospitality, many a times the host or the senior will scoop the food and serve to your mouth, as blogged in Rabat (ⴰⵕⴱⴰⵟ). That was what I did again, and this trip took place during the pandemic...
Arabic coffee (قهوة عربية)
Arabic coffee (قهوة عربية, Qahwat arabia) is considered a symbol of generosity in UAE and represents an important aspect of hospitality that it has become a national tradition. This tradition has been so ingrained into the Emirati life that it is said that welcoming guests would be incomplete or disrespectful without serving coffee.
As blogged in Istanbul (İstanbul) the word coffee comes from the Arabic word قَهْوَة (qahwa), which in turn is derived from قَهِيَ (qahiya), meaning 'lack hunger', as coffee was originally used as an appetite suppressant. Coffee is known to come to the Middle East from Ethiopia (Amharic: ኢትዮጵያ, ʾĪtyōṗṗyā) and makes its name now as the blend of Coffea arabica, which is the dominant coffee bean of the world. It is also believed this bean is the first species of coffee to have been cultivated.
Arabic coffee is more defined by the method of preparation and flavours, rather than the type of roast beans. Arabic coffee is made from roasted coffee beans and is often mixed with cardamom, and is traditionally roasted and served unsweetened in front of guests. The coffee is usually served dark, bitter and piping hot. As a result the serving portion is generally small in small cups and is often served with dates or sweets to battle the bitterness. Most of the time, the beans are lightly roasted in a small portion on a shallow plate on open fire to create a more bespoke character. Many a times the coffee is pour into a large iconic pitcher called dallah (دلة) as above picture shows, to serve in front of the guests. The dallah is designed with special effort to an extent it has become an art piece itself. Moreover preparation of Arabic coffee is usually accompanied by some kind of musical performances, which links the coffee to the culture of performance arts.
The guest drinks the coffee and the host or server will replenish the small cup unless signalled not to, by wiggling the cup. Otherwise, the server will continue to serve another cup until the guest indicates otherwise. Arabic coffee as a hospitality practice is now firmly inscribed as an ICH.
Getting There and Around
I joined a local day-tour from Dubai (دبي, Dubayy), which became a private tour as there were no other takers, as Al-Ain is not a particular popular tourist destination. The trip cost me AED 700 د.إ (dirham). From Dubai it is a two-hour drive and I would suggest staying in Al-Ain for two or three days to explore all historic and cultural sites.
UNESCO Inscriptions
The Cultural Sites of Al Ain (Hafit, Hili, Bidaa Bint Saud and Oases Areas) constitute a serial property that testifies to sedentary human occupation of a desert region since the Neolithic period with vestiges of many prehistoric cultures. Remarkable vestiges in the property include circular stone tombs (ca 2500 B.C.), wells and a wide range of adobe constructions: residential buildings, towers, palaces and administrative buildings. Hili moreover features one of the oldest examples of the sophisticated aflaj irrigation system which dates back to the Iron Age. The property provides important testimony to the transition of cultures in the region from hunting and gathering to sedentarization.
Serving Arabic coffee is an important aspect of hospitality in Arab societies and considered a ceremonial act of generosity. Traditionally, coffee is prepared in front of guests. Coffee-making begins with the selection of beans, which are lightly roasted in a shallow pan over a fire, then placed into a copper mortar and pounded with a copper pestle. The coffee grounds are placed into a large copper coffee pot; water is added and the pot is placed on the fire. Once brewed, it is poured into a smaller coffee pot from which it is poured into small cups. The most important or oldest guest is served first, filling a quarter of the cup, which can then be refilled. Common practice is to drink at least one cup but not exceed three. Arabic coffee is made and enjoyed by men and women from all segments of society, particularly in the home. The sheikhs and heads of tribes who serve Arabic coffee in their meeting spaces, elderly Bedouin men and women and owners of coffee trading shops are considered the main bearers. Knowledge and traditions are passed on within the family through observation and practice. Young family members also accompany their elders to the market to learn how to select the best coffee beans.
Majlis are ‘sitting places’ where community members gather to discuss local events and issues, exchange news, receive guests, socialize and be entertained. The Majlis is where the community gathers to resolve problems, pay condolences and hold wedding receptions. It is typically a large space with carpets on the floor and cushions against the wall. There is usually a stove or fire to prepare coffee and other hot beverages. The Majlis space is open to all people and may be frequented by family members, tribes and inhabitants of the same neighbourhood, and other remote neighbourhoods. Community elders are considered true bearers, especially those with extensive knowledge concerning nature, genealogy and tribal history. Judges and religious sheikhs have special importance in the Majlis as they adjudicate on disputes and clarify political, social and religious rights and responsibilities. Women have their own Majlis, although some prominent women attend other Majlis, which are particularly academic or literary in nature. Majlis also play an important role in the transfer of oral heritage, including folk stories, folk songs and ‘Nabati’ poetry. As Majlis spaces are open to all age groups knowledge is mostly transmitted informally as children accompany community members on their visits. Through observing elders in the Majlis, young people learn the manners and ethics of their community, dialogue and listening skills, and respect for the opinion of others.
The date palm has been connected to the regional population of the submitting States for centuries, serving both as the source of numerous associated crafts, professions and social and cultural traditions, customs and practices, and as a key form of nutrition. The date palm is an evergreen plant typically associated with dry climates, where the roots of the plant penetrate deeply into the earth in search of humidity. Bearers and practitioners include date palm farm owners, farmers who plant, nurture and irrigate the date palm offshoots, craftspeople who produce traditional products using various parts of the palm tree, date traders, creative individuals and performers of associated folkloric tales and poems. The Date palm, knowledge, skills, traditions and practices have played a pivotal role in strengthening the connection between people and the land in the Arab region, helping them face the challenges of the harsh desert environment. This historic relationship in the region and the element has produced a rich cultural heritage of related practices between people in the region, knowledge and skills maintained to this day. The cultural relevance and proliferation of the element over the centuries prove how committed the local communities are to sustaining it; this is achieved through collective participation in multiple date-palm related activities and numerous festive rituals, traditions and customs.
Al Aflaj and the related oral traditions, knowledge and skills of construction, maintenance and equitable water distribution are a source of pride for the associated communities. Al Aflaj is a traditional irrigation system which uses an underground tunnel to conduct water over long distances from an underground source to a basin, where the community can access it. The water flows by gradual gradient from highlands to flatlands, while the underground tunnels reduce evaporation. Al Aflaj also includes a network of surface channels, which distributes water to local farms. The Al Aflaj system is based on inherited knowledge and practices related to nature and the universe. It also relies on traditional skills in finding water sources based on types of vegetation and other indications, as well as drilling skills for maintaining the irrigation system and ensuring the equitable distribution of water. Community members contribute to maintaining Al Aflaj and clearing the tunnels of mud; this knowledge and experience has been passed down for 3,000 years. Related knowledge is transmitted through instruction and shared experience as well as by other means such as field trips for school students. Throughout the centuries, the Al Aflaj have served to provide drinkable water for humans and animals and to irrigate farms in an arid environment, demonstrating the community’s creativity in the face of water scarcity and the desert environment.
Falconry is the traditional art and practice of training and flying falcons (and sometimes eagles, hawks, buzzards and other birds of prey). It has been practised for over 4000 years. The practice of falconry in early and medieval periods of history is documented in many parts of the world. Originally a means of obtaining food, falconry has acquired other values over time and has been integrated into communities as a social and recreational practice and as a way of connecting with nature. Today, falconry is practised by people of all ages in many countries. As an important cultural symbol in many of those countries, it is transmitted from generation to generation through a variety of means, including through mentoring, within families or in training clubs. The modern practice of falconry focuses on safeguarding falcons, quarry and habitats, as well as the practice itself. And while falconers come from different backgrounds, they share universal values, traditions and practices, including the methods of breeding, training and caring for birds, the equipment used and the bonds between the falconer and the bird. The falconry community includes supporting entities such as falcon hospitals, breeding centres, conservation agencies and traditional equipment makers.
Arabic calligraphy is the artistic practice of handwriting Arabic script in a fluid manner to convey harmony, grace and beauty. The practice, which can be passed down through formal and informal education, uses the twenty-eight letters of the Arabic alphabet, written in cursive, from right to left. Originally intended to make writing clear and legible, it gradually became an Islamic Arab art for traditional and modern works. The fluidity of Arabic script offers infinite possibilities, even within a single word, as letters can be stretched and transformed in numerous ways to create different motifs. Traditional techniques use natural materials, such as reeds and bamboo stems for the qalam, or writing instrument. A mixture of honey, black soot and saffron is used for the ink, and the paper is handmade and treated with starch, egg white and alum. Modern calligraphy commonly uses markers and synthetic paint, and spray paint is used for calligraffiti on walls, signs and buildings. Artisans and designers also use Arabic calligraphy for artistic enhancement, such as for marble and wood carving, embroidery and metal etching. Arabic calligraphy is widespread in Arab and non-Arab countries and is practised by men and women of all ages. Skills are transmitted informally or through formal schools or apprenticeships.
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