A formidable fortress exhibiting a mix of European and Islamic architectural designs - Castel del Monte 398; Falconry, a living human heritage 1708
What and Why
Our next stop took us to Castel del Monte, a formidable fortress standing isolated on a little mount in Andria. As the name suggests, the name means 'castle of the mountain' (Italian: castel del monte) in Italian. It was built during the mid-13th century CE by the Holy Roman Emperor (Latin: Imperator Romanorum) Frederick II (Latin: Fridericus II, né Friedrich von Hohenstaufen) and the castle appears on the Italian version of the EUR 1¢ Euro coin.
While it looks like a military sentinel or citadel, this castle does not have the usual moat for protection, and hence it was never intended to be a defensive structure. According to the display this castle simply served as a hunting lodge for the Emperor.
The form of the architecture is unique in its own sense as octagons are rarely featured in western architecture, but they are rather common in Islamic architecture. History tells us that Frederick II was quite a scholar, with a strong affiliation to mathematics. Apparently he invited scientists and scholars for regular parties and was inspired by the advent of mathematics in the Islamic world during the time, and hence the influence on the shape. Interior features reflect similar Oriental influences and knowledge, such as the innovative hydraulic installations used by Frederick II for bathing and toileting in accordance to the then typical Arabic customs and designs.
In the UNESCO official statement, the fort is 'a successful blend of elements from classical antiquity, the Islamic Orient and north European Cistercian Gothic'. The castle looks like a crown, symbolic of Frederick's status and power; its dominant position making it visible from afar as it sits isolated on a mount. Back in those days, all of the rooms were decorated with precious polychrome marble, mosaics, paintings and tapestries, but unfortunately Castel del Monte has been robbed by its treasures by looters and vandals. Moreover while the castle represents Frederick's might, the castle was ironically used to imprison Frederick's heirs after his death.
Toponymy
'Andria' attributes to Andrew the Apostle (Greek: Ἀνδρέας, Andreas). 'Castel del Monte' simply means 'castle of the mountain' in Italian, as above.
See
Castel del Monte
The main entrance is quite unassuming.
The fortress is hollow with a central octagonal courtyard, as above. Amongst Castel del Monte's strange features is its layout: visitors proceed from one room into another in a one-way circuit around the courtyard: upstairs there is a door-less wall meaning unless one completes the circuit, one has to backtrack in order to leave the castle.
All the interior rooms are octagonal in shape and reflects a strict sense of mathematical regularity. The octagonal plan represents the intermediate figure between the square (the symbol of the earth) and the circle, representing the infinite sky.
The castle was built using three types of material: limestone, white marble and coral breccia. This gives the walls of the building a very special chromatic effect. The present facade looks like marble, but during the 18th century CE, the real marble on the facade were looted away to build other buildings nearby and hence the walls were plastered with other materials. By the way our gang found it a lot of fun running around the octagonal maze, especially taking pictures from one end to another across the atrium.
The castle has a very advanced and environmental hydraulic system, apparently coming from Arab hydraulic engineering: the toilets and bathrooms all use rainwater harnessed from the rooftop. The castle also built the first flush toilet in Europe.
At the opposite end, sit Room 5 where the throne room is. The team of course would like to take a picture in front of the throne.
The leftover of the fireplace where game were cooked. Frederick's favourite hobby was falconry, which he also picked up from his exchanges with the Muslims. This is an ICH still being practised in Italy (Italia) today, please refer to our blog on Al-Ain (ٱلْعَيْ) about falconry.
Buy and Do
Outside the castle, there is a small bazaar selling all sorts of souvenirs. Nothing particular, maybe the fake 1¢ coin.
Eat and Drink
Burrata
We ate at a nearby local eatery called La Locanda dei Duchi, which serves good cheese and honest home-made pasta. We had a wonderful serving of very fresh local burrata and mozzarella, and are truly divine. The burrata is the local delicacy and the name actually means 'buttered' in Italian, so you can imagine the freshness and creaminess of the cheese. The service was great and the chef does speak English. Always enjoy a unexpected goodness during travel.
Wine (Vino)
Andria does produce its own controlled designation of origin (denominazione di origine controllata, DOC) wine, in particular it is famous for its rosé wine.
Getting There and Around
Andria is fairly remote and one has to drive there from Matera. All cars have to park at the base of the mount, and you can take the official bus shuttle at 1€ per person. The ride takes less than five minutes, or you can choose to walk up to the castle by a 20 minute-walk. Again you have to pay the ZTL (zona a traffico limitato) fare of 20€ for entering Andria. The entrance fee to the castle is 7€.
All you need in the castle is perhaps one to two hours. There is nothing interesting in Andria to visit.
UNESCO Inscription
When the Emperor Frederick II built this castle near Bari in the 13th century, he imbued it with symbolic significance, as reflected in the location, the mathematical and astronomical precision of the layout and the perfectly regular shape. A unique piece of medieval military architecture, Castel del Monte is a successful blend of elements from classical antiquity, the Islamic Orient and north European Cistercian Gothic.
Falconry is the traditional art and practice of training and flying falcons (and sometimes eagles, hawks, buzzards and other birds of prey). It has been practised for over 4000 years. The practice of falconry in early and medieval periods of history is documented in many parts of the world. Originally a means of obtaining food, falconry has acquired other values over time and has been integrated into communities as a social and recreational practice and as a way of connecting with nature. Today, falconry is practised by people of all ages in many countries. As an important cultural symbol in many of those countries, it is transmitted from generation to generation through a variety of means, including through mentoring, within families or in training clubs. The modern practice of falconry focuses on safeguarding falcons, quarry and habitats, as well as the practice itself. And while falconers come from different backgrounds, they share universal values, traditions and practices, including the methods of breeding, training and caring for birds, the equipment used and the bonds between the falconer and the bird. The falconry community includes supporting entities such as falcon hospitals, breeding centres, conservation agencies and traditional equipment makers.
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