Beginning of Thailand - Historic City of Ayutthaya 576; Khon, masked dance drama in Thailand 01385
What and Why
Founded around mid-14th century CE, Ayutthaya (Thai: อยุธยา) became the second capital of Siam (สยาม) after Sukhothai (สุโขทัย), and was the immediately predecessor of modern Thailand. Located at an ideal region between China, India and the Malay Peninsula (Malay: Semenanjung Tanah Melayu) made Ayutthaya the main trading capital of the world. At its peak it was the largest city in the world with a population of more than 1 million inhabitants.
European merchants described Ayutthaya as the finest city they had ever seen. Various maps of the city show the grandeur with gold-laden palaces, large ceremonies, and a visiting flotilla of trading vessels from all over the world. The empire ended in the mid-18th century CE, when the former kingdom Burma (Burmese: မြန်မာ) invaded and destroyed the country. Ayutthaya is now an archaeological ruin, characterised by the remains of tall temples and Buddhist monasteries which give an idea of the city’s past size and the splendour of its architecture.
While by foreign accounts Ayutthaya was called Siam during the period, local called themselves Krung Tai (กรุงไท), and hence the modern name of the country, meaning free country.
Toponymy
Ayutthaya is named after the city of Ayodhya (Hindi: अयोध्या) in India, which derives from the Sanskrit word युद्ध (yudh) meaning to fight, meaning the city is unconquerable. Ayodhya was the supposed birthplace of Rama (Sanskrit: राम), the major deity in Hinduism.
See
Ayutthaya is technically an island of 15 km2, surrounded by a few rivers that run around it, forming a natural moat, and was the main reason why it was chosen as a capital. Due to its river connexions, the city also became an international trade centre during its heydays. The site is fairly huge and all filled with various temples and pagodas but is manageable for a full-day walking tour. We followed the route from the market entrance.
Phra Chedi Suriyothai (เจดีย์พระศรีสุริโยทัย)
Suriyothai (สุริโยทัย) is a commemorative royal queen consort during the 16th century CE Ayutthaya period of Siam. She was famous for giving up her life in the defence of her husband, King Maha Chakkraphat (มหาจักรพรรดิ, né เธียรราชาสุพรรณภูมิ, Thianracha Suphannaphum), in a battle during the Burmese–Siamese War in the mid-15th century CE. The name Suriyothai is a compound word of from Sanskrit सूर्य (surya) meaning sun; and उदय (udaya) meaning rising. The word phra chedi (พระเจดีย์) means a royal temple.
Wihan Phra Mongkol Bopit (วิหารพระมงคลบพิตร)
Wihan Phra Mongkol Bopit (วิหารพระมงคลบพิตร) is the Palace of Ayutthaya right from the main entrance, which resembles to a large extent to the Grand Palace of Bangkok (พระบรมมหาราชวัง, Phrabrm Mh̄ārāch Wạng), it is actually a Buddhist temple which is believed was built in the mid-16th century CE. While the outer facade is impressive, it contains one of the largest gold-plated Buddha statue inside the temple, measuring more than 12 m in height.
Wat Ratchaburana (วัดราชบูรณะ)
Wat Ratchaburana (วัดราชบูรณะ) highlights the two prominent towers and magnificent engravings in stone of apsaras. The temple's main prang is one of the finest in the city.
Wat Phra Mahathat (วัดมหาธาตุ พระนครศรีอยุธยา)
Wat Phra Mahathat (วัดมหาธาตุ พระนครศรีอยุธยา), meaning the temple of the great relic, is not famous for any of its temples but for the main picture above, and is probably the most photographed site of the park. The face is a little more than the size of a normal human head.
The sculpture of Buddha's head is naturally surrounded by tree roots and branches, creating the iconic sight. What happened was that one of these Buddha statues were ruined and the head was then left on the ground near a growing tree sapling. As the tree trunk grew, it gradually lifted the statue head and embedded it into the branches, almost at a supernaturally correct upright angle . One of those things which you could not believe until you see it. The other areas are ruinous.
Wat Phra Ram (วัดพระราม)
The elder of all of Ayutthaya’s ancient monuments, Wat Phra Ram predates most other temples in the park, but receives much less attention.
Wat Phra Si Sanphet (วัดพระศรีสรรเพชญ์)
Wat Phra Si Sanphet (วัดพระศรีสรรเพชญ์), meaning the temple of the holy, splendid omniscient, was the holiest and grandest temple on the site of Ayutthaya. The three stupas were built in the 14th century CE.
The Wat Phra Si Sanphet was the temple of the royal family and no monks live there. The temple was used exclusively for royal ceremonies.
Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon (วัดใหญ่ชัยมงคล)
Probably the most elaborate and well-preserved of all temples in the site, Wat Yai Chai Mongkol (วัดใหญ่ชัยมงคล), meaning the great monastery of fortunate victory, is also the tallest of all temples, measuring more than 60 m in height. There are many bibbed Buddha statues built around the temple. The temple is built and named to commemorate the victory of the Siamese-Burmese war.
Near the temple there is a massive and much visited reclining Buddha. From the top of the temple is a good view of the park surrounding. One interesting feature to note of those smaller Buddha statues is that all of them has their hands down, instead of the usual hands-up. This is supposed to symbolise the warding off of bad spirits.
Other views of the site.
Wat Thammikarat (วัดธรรมิกราช)
Looked more like a Greek temple, Wat Thammikarat (วัดธรรมิกราช) is a working temple.
Buy and Do
Ayothaya Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำอโยธยา)
There is a very good floating bazaar near the historic site, called Ayothaya Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำอโยธยา), where there is a large variety of food and souvenirs for sale. Remember it is illegal to bring Buddha figurines out of Thailand.
Khon (โขน)
As I was staying in Bangkok (กรุงเทพมหานคร, Krung Thep), I naturally visited the Grand Palace (พระบรมมหาราชวัง, Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang). Together with the ticket included a free Khon (โขน) performance at the Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre (ศาลาเฉลิมกรุง, Sala Chaloem Krung).
Khon is a traditional dance drama genre that originated during the Ayutthaya period. The drama features masked performance with very elaborate mask designs. The drama, with loads of music, dances, fights and acrobatics, is based on the tales of the epic Ramakien (รามเกียรติ์, Rammakian), the Thai adaptation of Indian Hindu epic Rāmāyana (Sanskrit: रामायणम्, Rāmāyaṇam), which for some reason has been the popular theme of traditional performances in Southeast Asia, and I have watched various version of this in Malaysia, Indonesia and India.
Traditionally Khon can only be performed by young men, and even the female characters were performed by male impersonator, due to the extensive acrobatics. Nowadays, there are more female performers, although they are still casted in minor roles only. The performance was made mainly towards the Siamese courts and palaces and were transmitted within. Today, perpetuation of Khon continues to stick to traditional methods and concerted efforts are made to ensure the continuity of the practice, including through the establishment of training and performance clubs that help reach out to young people, and is recently enlisted as an ICH.
Eat and Drink
Prawn (กุ้ง)
Ayutthaya is famous for its river prawns. They are well served in the floating market, usually in grilled form.
This leads to another local delicacy, the Thai shrimp sashimi (กุ้งแช่น้ำปลา, goong chea nam pla), a salad made from fresh raw shrimp soaked in Thai fish sauce with all sorts of spices and chillis. Must-try.
Stay
We stayed in the posh The Davis at Bangkok which is only an hour away from Ayutthaya. Excellent and classy business hotel and very reasonably priced.
Getting There and Around
As mentioned the historic site is one hour drive away from Bangkok, and is very well connected to Bangkok by bus and train . The entry fee to the park is THB 220฿. If one wants to fully explore the site, perhaps renting a bicycle is advisable. It is suggested a full-day of exploration in the entire site.
UNESCO Inscriptions
Founded c. 1350, Ayutthaya became the second Siamese capital after Sukhothai. It was destroyed by the Burmese in the 18th century. Its remains, characterized by the prang (reliquary towers) and gigantic monasteries, give an idea of its past splendour.
Khon, the Khon Masked Dance Drama in Thailand, is a performing art that combines musical, vocal, literary, dance, ritual and handicraft elements. Khon performances – which involve graceful dance movements, instrumental and vocal renditions and glittering costumes – depict the glory of Rama, the hero and incarnation of the god Vishnu, who brings order and justice to the world. The many episodes depict Rama’s life, including his journey in the forest, his army of monkeys, and his fights with the army of Thosakan, king of the giants. On one level, Khon represents high art cultivated by the Siamese/Thai courts over centuries, while at another level, as a dramatic performance, it can be interpreted and enjoyed by spectators from different social backgrounds. Khon has a strong didactic function, reinforcing respect for those of a higher age and status, mutual dependence between leaders and followers, the honour of rulers and the triumph of good over evil. Traditionally, Khon was transmitted in the royal or princely courts, and in dance masters’ households. Today, however, transmission occurs mostly in educational institutions, while still adhering largely to traditional methods. Concerted efforts are made to ensure the continuity of the practice, including through the establishment of training and performance clubs that help reach out to young people.
References
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