Hanseatic dockyards standing for more than a thousand years - Bryggen 59; Oselvar boat - reframing a traditional learning process of building and use to a modern context 01156; Nordic clinker boat traditions 01686
What and Why
Bergen, a coastal city in Norway (Norwegian: Norge), was the main commercial hub of the Hanseatic League (German: Hanse) during the 13th to 17th century CE. The Hanseatic League started as a mediaeval commercial confederation of guilds and markets in Central and Northern Europe and grew to its peak of power in the 14th century CE when it also provided military defence for its confederated states. During its heydays, the League established monopoly over maritime trade in the region and Bergen was the epicentre of these commercial activities. The headquarter was established in Bergen around mid-14th century CE in the form of a wharf with the warehouses used to store goods, especially stockfish (tørrfisk) and cod from Norway.
One interesting fact about Bryggen's commercial community was the fact that it was male-only and these merchants had to stay inside Bryggen and were not allowed to fraternise with locals, especially women.
The iconic wooden buildings of Bryggen are historic reflections of the coastal architecture, known as fondaco, during the time. The long stretch of buildings became the archetypal cityscape of the region and is repeated in many other cities around the Hanseatic reach. As usual many of these buildings were burnt down by fire over the centuries.
Linguistically the site also uncovered a runic inscription known as the Bryggen inscriptions (Bryggen-innskrifter) during the 1950s CE, and gave important hints about the linguistic development of the region.
Toponymy
'Bergen' derives from the Old Norse form 'Bjǫrgvin'. The first stem 'bjǫrg-' translates expectedly to 'mountain(s)', while the stem '-vin' means 'settlement with a meadow'. Hence Bergen literally means 'a meadow amongst the mountains'.
'Bryggen' is simply Norwegian for 'dock, wharf or pier'.
See
Bryggen
Bryggen is actually a small cluster of 62 wooden buildings around the northern shore of the Bergen harbour (Bergenhavn). Most of these buildings are were relatively new, rebuilt after the 18th century CE based on the original architecture, as many of them were destroyed by fire throughout history.
The houses on Bryggen are built in parallel rows perpendicular to the waterfront, on one or both sides of a shared passage between the buildings. The architecture has looked the same since its construction during the Middle Ages.
Within the cluster, there are a number of alleys or fjord, that one can walk around to understand the detailed construction of the wharf buildings. The more accessible ones are Bugården, Bredsgården and Jacobsfjorden.
Another alley called Enhjørningsgården.
One can easily observe from the outside main facade that many buildings have already tilted or leaning to one another as a result of the subsidence of the underlying soft soil. A major restoration project is underway to ensure the buildings do not collapse.
As a matter of fact, one of the greatest challenges is the fact that Bryggen is actually sinking by an estimated 8 mm each year due to the fact that it is sitting on wet soil.
Fishmarket (Fisketorget)
Bergen's outdoor fishmarket (fisketorget) has a long history, being the historical centre for fish trade. Aside from Bryggen, this is probably Bergen's other tourist draw. As expected it is now flooded more with souvenir shops rather than seafood stalls. One would get a pretty good idea of what the locals eat by having a look at the various fish they sell here.
The main thing to note is the price of everything. Norway is an expensive country to travel!
Bergen is actually very famous for its seafood and has a long history in international trade in seafood, reflected in its traditional and coastal gastronomy. The city’s food culture originating from sea biodiversity is considered the most sustainable in Europe. It is enlisted as one of UNESCO City of Gastronomy.
Fløyen
As a tourist sometimes it is difficult to find a good hiking trail as most hiking trails are far from the city centre and requires a bit of transportation. Fløyen is a mountain that is situated right in front of the city and the trail starts downtown and no need for transport out of town. The other good thing about travelling in Norway is, especially summer, you can hike until midnight and the sun is still up, which is exactly what I did! The trails are extremely well marked and the peak provides an impeccable view to the city. To reach the top it took me less than two hours, a very easy hike. There is also a funicular for those lazy bumps who would not want to spare a breath to walk up.
Fantoft Stave Church (Fantoft stavkirke)
Stave churches (stavekirke) are distinctive churches built using the logs of trees as pillars and are very common in Scandinavia. The word stave derives from the type of timber framing where the load-bearing ore-pine posts are called stave (stav). These churches usually portrays a dark-chocolate facade with very iconic bevels and roofs.
This particular stave church is actually a reconstruction of a church that was built around 1150 CE, and was destroyed by fire in 1992 CE. The church is not in use and there is no interior decor. To be honest, not a very impressive church to visit.
The reason I visited this church was that I was planning to visit the other stave church, the Urnes Stave Church (Urnes stavkyrkje) in Urnes, which is a WHS. However the travel was so complicated and forbidding back in 2012 CE, that I had to give up. I recently discovered that this trip is now much easier and I promise to return one day.
Buy and Do
Oselvar (Oselver)
Once a maritime force due to the Vikings, of course one has to explore their maritime history, especially we are near the docks. One of the traditional boats on exhibit and available for a short cruise is the Oselvar (Oselver). The Oselvar is a small wooden rowing boat traditionally built with thin but wide planks, using the clinker architecture discussed in an earlier blog in Flåm. Almost all parts of an Oselvar are made of pine.
While this boat has been in use for more than a millennium, it is named after Os, which is the former shipbuilding hub in western Norway where these boats were built. At one point during the last century, this boat almost disappeared from sight and a massive amount of modern effort was put into the resurrection of this boat, which in turns made it an ICH. There is now an annual regatta for Oselvar boats. Do take a leisure cruise around Bergenhavn to enjoy the beautiful coastal landscape of Bergen.
Eat and Drink
Fish soup (Fiskesuppe)
The food to eat in Norway is definitely fish soup (fiskesuppe), which is ubiquitous. The Norwegian version of fish soup is a heavy cream soup made with white fish, usually haddock, halibut, or cod together with various vegetables.
Getting There and Around
Bergen is extremely well connected with its buses and trams and the city centre is only 30 minutes away from the airport. Within the city centre, Bryggen, the fish market and Fløyen are within walking distances from each other.
UNESCO Inscriptions
Bryggen, the old wharf of Bergen, is a reminder of the town’s importance as part of the Hanseatic League’s trading empire from the 14th to the mid-16th century. Many fires, the last in 1955, have ravaged the characteristic wooden houses of Bryggen. Its rebuilding has traditionally followed old patterns and methods, thus leaving its main structure preserved, which is a relic of an ancient wooden urban structure once common in Northern Europe. Today, some 62 buildings remain of this former townscape.
Previously western Norway’s main mode of transportation, also used for recreation, the wooden oselvar boat almost became obsolete with the introduction of modern boats in the 1940s, as well as government price restrictions forcing builders to find alternative work, and greater road transport in the 1960s. To help safeguard the traditional practice, the Os Båtbyggjarlag boat-builders guild, Os Municipality and Hordaland County, supported by the Arts Council Norway, founded the non-profit boatyard and workshop foundation Oselvarverkstaden. Operating since 1997, it recruits apprentice boat builders, facilitates the transmission of expert know-how on building techniques (normally passed down from father to son), attracts active builders providing them with infrastructure and supports the oselvar manufacturing market. So far, more than 85 boats have been built and 40 repaired. Five of its six apprentices remain active and four builders participate. They have access to a workshop where skills sharing is encouraged, as well as materials and tools. Constructing the 5m to 10m boats made for racing, freighting or fishing is a 500 to 600 hour process, from negotiating with material suppliers to rigging and testing the final product. The builders also conduct field studies, demonstrations and participate in seminars and exhibitions, locally and internationally.
Nordic clinker boats are small, open, wooden boats between five and ten metres long. For almost two millennia, the people of the Nordic region (including the indigenous Sami peoples in Finland, Norway and Sweden and minority groups such as the Kvens in Norway, the Tornedalians in Sweden and the Swedish-speaking population in Finland) have been building clinker boats using the same basic techniques: thin planks are fastened to a backbone of the keel and stems, and the overlapping planks are fastened together with metal rivets, treenails or rope. The shell of the boat is strengthened with frames. Clinker boat builders emphasize the long time it takes to acquire the knowledge and skills for building traditional boats. In the past, it was common to start training with a master from a young age, and it would take up to ten years to learn the trade. A symbol of common Nordic coastal heritage, clinker boats were traditionally used for fishing and to transport materials and people. Today, they are primarily used in traditional festivities, regattas and sporting events, even though about a thousand persons make a full or partial living through the production, maintenance or use of clinker boats. Clinker boat traditions include social practices. For instance, once finished, boats may be ceremonially carried to the water where they are then given a name and wished good fortune; traditional songs may be sung during sailing and rowing.
References
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