Part two of one of the most beautiful cities in Europe - Budapest, including the Banks of the Danube, the Buda Castle Quarter and Andrássy Avenue 400
What and Why
Budapest, considered by many to be the 'Paris of the East', is one of the most culturally important metropolises in former Eastern Europe. In fact, Budapest has so many things to do that you'll want to spend at least a few days exploring this dynamic city, and hence I devote two blogs to this city.
See
The Pest side of the city is much more urban in look than it seems. It oozes and combines culture, politics and faith into one single potpourri.
Margaret Island (Margit-Sziget)
Along River Danube (Hungarian: Duna) sits Margaret Island (Margit-Sziget) which offers a natural escapade to the hustle and bustle of the city.
The Knights of Saint John (Latin: Ordo Fratrum Hospitalis Sancti Ioannis Hierosolymitani), which is associated with Malta, as we described in my Valletta blog, settled on the island in the 12th century CE. Hence amongst the many historical monuments of the island are the ruins of a Franciscan church and a Dominican church. Then the Ottoman Empire (Osmanlı Devleti) came and turned the small island into a Muslim harem, until it was turned fully into a public park in the 19th century CE.
Parliament (Országház)
The jewel of the crown of the city, the Gothic / Baroque-styled Parliament (Országház, meaning house of the nation) stands gloriously at the riverfront of Danube. It also happens to be the largest building of Hungary (Magyarország).
One of the famous parts of the building is the hexadecagonal (sixteen-sided) central hall, with huge chambers adjoining it: the Lower House and the Upper House. The Holy Crown of Hungary (Szent Korona), which is also depicted in the coat of arms of Hungary, has been displayed in the central hall since 2000 CE. Due to its extensive surface and its detailed handiwork, the building is almost always under renovation.
Lajos Kossuth Square (Kossuth Lajos Tér)
Lajos Kossuth Square (Kossuth Lajos Tér) is the square just behind the Parliament, which a number of notable buildings located around it.
In September 2006 CE the square was the scene of an anti-government demonstrations against Prime Minister Ferenc Gyurcsány triggered by the release of Gyurcsány's speech in which he confessed that he had lied to win the elections. The square was continuously occupied by the demonstrators until the end of the year.
Danube Promenade (Duna Korzó)
Along the riverbank of the Parliament is the very scenic Danube Promenade (Duna Korzó), with a good view of the Buda Castle (Budavári Palota), the Danube and the Parliament. A very important piece of sculpture along the promenade is the Shoes on the Danube Bank (Cipők a Duna-Parton) which was erected on 2005 CE. This was created to honour the Jews who were killed by fascist Arrow Cross (Nyilaskeresztes Párt) militiamen during World War II. They were ordered to take off their shoes, and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away. The sculpture represents their shoes left behind on the bank.
Hungarian Academy of Sciences (Magyar Tudományos Akadémia)
In front of the Hungarian Academy of Sciences (Magyar Tudományos Akadémia) stands the statue of Loránd Eötvös, who studied surface tension in my field of study. As an academic of course I have to pay a visit. In front of it stands Palace Gresham, the most luxurious hotel in Hungary.
Saint Stephen Basilica (Szent István Bazilika)
Saint Stephen Basilica (Szent István Bazilika) is named after King Saint Stephen (Szent István, né István Árpád), the first king of Hungary, who reigned from the year 1000 CE. The basilica nave is shaped like a Greek cross, with two steeples and a dome on top. The church is the highest church in Budapest and was built in the site because hundreds of people survived the great flood in the mid-19th century CE on this spot. One very important relic in this church is Saint Stephen's hand. It is placed in a glass box is one of the naves.
Dohány Street Synagogue (Dohány Utcai Zsinagóga)
One of the grandest synagogue I have ever been to (but honestly I have not been to really a lot), Dohány Steet Synagogue (Dohány Utcai Zsinagóga) is the largest synagogue in Europe, easily seating 3,000 people. It is very easy to miss the synagogue as the exterior looks very Islamic, as the architect, Ludwig Förster, could not identify any distinctive Jewish architecture, and thus chose, according to him 'architectural forms that have been used by oriental ethnic groups that are related to the Israelite people, and in particular the Arabs'. The interior is really what that matters and it was beautifully decorated by a different designer.
The Dohány Synagogue complex consists of also the Memorial which looks like a willow, and the Jewish Museum. While the synagogue was built in the mid-19th century CE, the area was, coincidentally and unfortunately, the border of the Budapest Ghetto (German: Budapester Ghetto) during World War II.
City Park (Városliget)
The City Park (Városliget) is a public park encompassing a large number of historic buildings and activity centres, and provides citizens a very relaxing area to chill. It has boating facility in the lake, ice-skating, baths. Szechenyi Baths (Széchenyi Gyógyfürdő) is built in the very early 20th century CE and provides more than a dozen of thermal baths and mud baths. The building is easily recognised by its yellowish palatial look and its easily visible cupola.
Vajdahunyad Castle (Vajdahunyad Vára) was built in late 19th century CE as part of the Millennial Exhibition which celebrated the 1,000 years of Hungary establishment. The castle was designed to feature copies of several landmark buildings from different parts the Kingdom of Hungary (Magyar Királyság), and hence the castle contains parts of buildings from various time periods, displaying different architectural styles: Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Tudor and Baroque. Good to stroll around, but nothing exceptional to see.
Other buildings around the complex. These buildings were first built for the Exposition in cardboard and wood, but later changed to permanent stones due to its popularity.
Heroes' Square (Hősök Tere)
Made during the Millennium Exposition, Heroes' Square (Hősök Tere) is dedicated to a handful of outstanding Hungarian statesmen, kings and heroes who established and developed Hungary over the past millennium. The tall column in the middle is topped by a statue of the archangel Gabriel (Hebrew: גַּבְרִיאֵל, 'Gavri'el). In his right hand the angel holds the Holy Crown of Saint Stephen. In his left hand the angel holds a two barred apostolic cross, a symbol awarded to Saint Stephen by the Pope in recognition of his efforts to convert Hungary to Christianity.
At the base of the column is a group of seven mounted figures representing the Magyar chieftains who led the Hungarian people into the Carpathian basin. In the front is Árpád, considered the founder of the Hungarian nation. Behind him are the six chieftains, but little survives in the historical record about them. Statues in the left colonnade are the first kings of Hungary: Saint Stephen, Saint Ladislaus (Szent László, né László Árpád), Coloman (Kálmán, né Kálmán Árpád), Andrew II (András, né András Árpád), Béla IV (né Béla Árpád), Charles I (Károly, né Károly Capeting–Anjouk), Louis I (Lajos, né Lajos Anjouk). Topping the outer edge of the left colonnade is a statue of a man with a scythe and a woman sowing seed, representing labor and wealth. At the inner top edge of the left colonnade is a male figure driving a chariot using a snake as a whip representing war. Statues in the right colonnade are Hungarian statesmen. On the facing end of the right colonnade is a female figure in a chariot holding a palm frond representing peace. In the corresponding position on the top of right colonnade is a statue of a man holding a little golden statue and a woman with a palm frond representing knowledge and glory.
Andrassy Avenue (Andrássy Út)
Andrassy Avenue (Andrássy Út) is the main boulevard in Budapest, extending its construction from the Millennium Exposition. Lined with spectacular neo-renaissance mansions and townhouses, it is the city's main shopping paradise and also houses all the main embassies.
The Andrassy Avenue also radically transformed the urban structure of Pest after it was constructed.
Buy and Do
Foie gras (Libamáj)
Hungary is the world's second-largest foie gras (libamáj) producer and the largest exporter: France clearly being the principal market. Foie gras come from both geese and ducks and the Hungarian version is just as high quality of the French version, but slightly cheaper. Naturally as a food connoisseur, it is unmissable from my buys and clearly as a tourist it is easier to buy the canned version. By the way the Hungarian cans are very difficult to open.
Eat and Drink
Goulash (Gulyás)
Goulash (Gulyás), one of the national symbols, is a big red stew of meat and vegetables usually seasoned with paprika. Originating in mediaeval Hungary, its origin traces back to the 9th century CE when stews were eaten by Hungarian shepherds. The word gulyás actually means herdsman.
This is probably one of the first instant foods in the world. In its beginning, goulash was designed as preserved food where the cooked meat was sun-dried and then packed into bags produced from sheep's stomachs with paprika. Hot water was then poured into the stomach to make it into a meal, like our modern day instant ramen.
We had a wonderful dinner at Paprika, which is so popular that we queued the night before but failed. The restaurant is deorated like a wooden hut. I was told that in Hungarian custom, lunch is actually more sumptuous and important than dinner. So we did get a few stares when we ordered a bit more than the others!
Getting There and Around
Another day-stroll would be a good recommendation to explore Pest. Budapest in general is very well connected by metro. The entrance fee to the Parliament is HUF 2400 Ft. Pest probably deserves another three days, adding to another in Buda, Budapest as a city is well worth a week.
UNESCO Inscription
This site has the remains of monuments such as the Roman city of Aquincum and the Gothic castle of Buda, which have had a considerable influence on the architecture of various periods. It is one of the world's outstanding urban landscapes and illustrates the great periods in the history of the Hungarian capital.
References
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