A mosque? A cathedral? - Historic Centre of Cordoba 313; Fiesta of the patios in Cordova 00846; Mediterranean diet 00884
What and Why
Cordova (Spanish: Córdoba) is an epicentre of cultural crossroads in Europe as it contains a mixture of the diverse cultures that have settled it throughout history. Very few cities in the world had the history and privilege to serve as the capital of a major Roman province, namely Further Hispania (Hispania Ulterior), the capital of an Arab State, Al-Andalus (Arabic: الأَنْدَلُس) and the capital of the Caliphate of Córdoba (Arabic: خلافة قرطبة; Khilāfat Qurṭuba), and partly as a capital-in-exile during the Umayyad Caliphate (Arabic: ٱلْخِلَافَة ٱلْأُمَوِيَّة, Al-Khilāfah al-ʾUmawīyah), all taking place during its heydays more than a thousand years ago. As a result the city brims with cultural heritage plus a symbiosis and harmony of faiths. The prime example of all these is the large number of Moorish architecture, in particular the Mosque–Cathedral (Mezquita-Catedral).
Recall the other blog of Córdoba in Argentina, this is the first time we have a namesake city story.
Toponymy
Cordova or Córdoba was named by the famous Carthaginian general Hamilcar Barca as Kartuba, from Kart-Juba, meaning the city of Juba, to commemorate a commander who had died in Juba, a city in Carthage (Punic: 𐤒𐤓𐤕 𐤇𐤃𐤔𐤕, qrt-ḥdšt).
See
Mosque–Cathedral (Mezquita-Catedral)
The site map of the Mosque-Cathedral.
The jewel of the crown of Cordova, the Mosque–Cathedral (Mezquita-Catedral), embodies the fusion of European and Islamic culture in one single building. The complex was built during the 780s CE by on the orders of Abd Ar-Rahman I (Arabic: عبد الرحمن الداخل, né عبد الرحمن بن معاوية, Abd Al-Rahman ibn Mu'awiya), when Cordova was the capital of Al-Andalus. It was built on a former site of a catholic basilica. It expanded substantially over the years until the mid-13th century CE when it was converted to a catholic church, with the minaret being remodelled to become a belfry. It remained as a catholic church until today although there is a lot of respect to the Islamic element of architecture within the large complex.
As the picture above shown, the most attractive feature of the complex is the hypostyle prayer hall, which exhibits clear Islamic design. With more than 850 alternating red and white voussoirs horse-shoe arches and pillars it creates a genuinely dazzling visual effect.
The prayer hall also has a richly-decorated miḥrāb (Arabic: محراب), an arch-shaped niche pointing to the qibla (Arabic: قِبْلَة), surrounded by an architecturally-defined maqsurah (Arabic: مقصورة) for the Muslim leader to lead prayers. The worn flagstones indicate worshippers circling it seven times on their knees.
One interesting feature is the alignment of qibla , which the Mosque-Cathedral does not follow. Apparently this was due to the convention during the time of construction that mosque points towards the south instead of aligning itself to the qibla. This was based on a saying of Muhammad (Arabic: مُحَمَّد, né محمد بن عبد الله, Muḥammad ibn Abd Allah) which stated that "What is between the east and west is a qibla (الْمَشْرِقِ وَالْمَغْرِبِ قِبْلَةٌ, Al-mashriq walmaghrib qibla)", which thus legitimised southern alignments of earlier mosques.
The complex main chapel (capilla mayor) is built in the middle of the prayer hall during the 16th century CE and follows largely Gothic architecture, with a very impressive ceiling and nave design.
The choir is an impressively wooden-carved work inside the complex.
The choir was constructed in the mid-18th century CE.
There are many small chapels, many of them very decorated, with various important ornaments exhibited.
These chapels by itself is a gem.
Amongst the many chapels, the most important of them is Capilla de Villaviciosa, which is the most elegantly decorated and more importantly the first Christian chapel to be built inside the mosque, incorporating all the Islamic features. The lobed arches are simply stunning.
The bell tower was originally built as a minaret as early as the 10th century CE. It was then partly demolished and reconstructed in the late 16th century CE as a bell-tower containing the original minaret structure. It provides a fine view of the city. The tower is called 'Torre del Alminar' which is an eclectic name of Spanish and Arabic, both meaning 'tower'.
The tower is separated from the main prayer hall with a fine orangery, originally planned as an ablution site.
The entire complex is built like a citadel with huge walls fencing the inner religious buildings. Many of the gates are very elaborate. Below is the Gate of the Holy Spirit (Puerta del Espíritu Santo), although this is a largely Islamic construction.
Calleja del Pañuelo
The little alley Calleja del Pañuelo is very close to the Mosque-Cathedral and it is nothing more than a back-alley. It is considered one of the narrowest street in the world and its narrowest point measures 72 cm only. It means 'handkerchief alley' in English and receives its name from the length of the old handkerchiefs that the gentlemen wore on the lapels of their suits (about 50 cm) and it would exactly coincide with the width of the street. Its official name is Calle de Pedro Jiménez. These narrow alleys are a reminder of the Islamic roots of the city as they were built like Arabic medinas (Arabic: مدينة, madīnah).
By the way, the 'crown' of narrowest street in the world are Spreuerhofstraße in Reutlingen, Germany (German: Deutschland) measuring 31 cm in width and L'Androuno in Gassin, France which measures 29 cm at its narrowest point.
Calahorra Tower (Torre de Calahorra)
The Calahorra Tower (Torre de la Calahorra) is a fortified gate of Islamic origin that was constructed during the Almohad Caliphate (Arabic: المُوَحِّدون, Al-Muwaḥḥidūn) period, circa 12th century CE. Clearly the formidable-looking whitewashed tower has been renovated multiple times over the years and is now serving as a historic musuem. It stands at the the end of the Roman bridge (Puente Romano).
Roman bridge (Puente Romano)
The Roman bridge was built by the Romans in the early 1st century BCE, replacing a previous wooden one, and was the only bridge crossing the river Guadalquivir until the mid-20th century CE.
The current stone bridge was reconstructed after the Islamic conquest during the 8th century CE and has 16 arcades. The bridge is only recently pedestrianised in 2004 CE.
Bridge gate (Puerta del Puente)
The Bridge gate (Puerta del Puente) is a Renaissance gate at the other end of the Roman bridge. It was built in the 16th century CE to commemorate a visit to the city by King Philip II (Felipe II, né Felipe Habsburg), and links the city with the Roman bridge and main thoroughfare to the historic centre of Cordova.
Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs (Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos)
Built in the early 14th century CE, the thick-walled Alcazar of the Christian Monarchs (Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos) is a mediaeval military palace, with the magnificent gardens and courtyards that maintain a Mudéjar and Spanish Gothic inspiration. The exterior of the castle features prominently a number of towers, overlooking the Guadalquivir.
With such a stronghold architecture, instead of a palatial residence, it has fulfilled many different functions over the years, such as the Headquarters of the Inquisition (Latin: Inquisitio), or a prison.
Puerta de Almodóvar
Built in the 14th century CE, the Puerta de Almodóvar is one of three remaining city gates of the city. The statue of the Cordoban philosopher Seneca (né Lucius Seneca) is prominently featured at the gate.
Jardines de Vallellano
The main public park in Cordova with a number of archaeological digs. It is linked with Jardines de la Victoria.
Roman mausoleum (Mausoleo romano)
Looking like a big water tank, the Roman mausoleum (Mausoleo romano) is a communal tomb built in the 1st century CE, and recently dug up during a recent archaeological excavations. The tomb is suggested to belong to a wealthy family.
Plaza de la Tendillas
This square is now considered as the city’s main square, and has existed in its present form since the 1920s CE. It has now become one of the favourite meeting places for Cordoban people and visitors. Right in the middle of the square, surrounded by the main fountain, stands the Statue of the Gran Capitán, Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba y Enríquez de Aguilar.
Roman Temple (Templo Romano)
The Roman Temple (Templo Romano) of Cordova was discovered by archaeological excavation in the 1950s CE. It is one of the most important dig in Cordova's history as it was built in the 1st century CE by Claudius (né Claudius Germanicus) for his own imperial worship.
The highlight of this temple is its foundations: those that support the building itself and the front counters are arranged in a fan shape and supported on a wall which created a stand to prevent it being displaced by the weight of the building, built entirely of marble. This type of fastening is called anterides, and was rare in the Roman Empire (Latin: Imperium Romanum).
Buy and Do
Patio Festival (Fiesta de los Patios)
For twelve days at the beginning of May, the city of Cordova celebrates the Fiesta of the Patios (Fiesta de los Patios) which began in 1918 CE. Patio houses are communal houses or clusters of individual houses with a shared patio, located in the city’s historical quarter. This characteristic cultural space boasts an abundant array of colourful plants, and during the festival inhabitants freely welcome all visitors to admire the horticulture. The patios also host traditional singing, flamenco guitar playing and dancing. The festival is perceived as an integral part of this city’s cultural heritage, imbuing it with a strong sense of identity and continuity. It requires the selfless cooperation of many people from all age groups, social strata and backgrounds, promoting and encouraging teamwork and contributing to local harmony.
We came in June and there were a few houses which continue to show the remnants of festive plants.
Royal Stables (Caballerizas Reales)
One of the best kept secrets of Cordova is its horse-show in the Royal Stables (Caballerizas Reales), which is a combination of equestrian and the famed flamenco. The show is approximately an hour and is a blast to watch. Recall similar shows in our blog in Vienna (Wien) - West.
Eat and Drink
Arab-Spanish fusion cuisine (Comida fusión árabe-española)
Without knowing, we went to have a very late supper in one of the most famous restaurants in Cordova, Ziryab. It is an absolutely top-notch Arab-Spanish fusion restaurant, incorporating the Mediterranean diet. With an open kitchen, you can see how everything is prepared right in front of you. Excellent.
Stay
We stayed in Hotel Eurostars Patios de Córdoba. Basic but close to all the landmarks.
Getting There and Around
Entrance fee into the Mosque-Cathedral is EUR 10€. Cordova does have a lot to offer, with the Mosque-Cathedral being the obvious highlight. Spare at least three days in the city. All the sites mentioned are walkable around the historic core.
UNESCO Inscriptions
Cordoba's period of greatest glory began in the 8th century after the Moorish conquest, when some 300 mosques and innumerable palaces and public buildings were built to rival the splendours of Constantinople, Damascus and Baghdad. In the 13th century, under Ferdinand III, the Saint, Cordoba's Great Mosque was turned into a cathedral and new defensive structures, particularly the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos and the Torre Fortaleza de la Calahorra, were erected.
For twelve days at the beginning of May, the city of Cordova celebrates the Fiesta of the Patios. The patio houses are communal, family or multi-family dwellings or sets of individual houses with a shared patio, located in the city’s historical quarter. This characteristic cultural space boasts an abundant array of plants, and during the fiesta inhabitants freely welcome all visitors to admire their beauty and the skill involved in their creation. The patios also host traditional singing, flamenco guitar playing and dancing. Ancestral practices of sustainable communal coexistence are shared with people who visit through expressions of affection and shared food and drink. The fiesta is perceived as an integral part of this city’s cultural heritage, imbuing it with a strong sense of identity and continuity. It requires the selfless cooperation of many people from all age groups, social strata and backgrounds, promoting and encouraging teamwork and contributing to local harmony and conviviality. It is guided by secular traditions, knowledge and skills, which take form in the luxuriant, floral, chromatic, acoustic, aromatic and compositional creativity of each patio – an expression of the symbolism and traditions of Cordovan community, and especially the residents who dwell in these patio houses.
The Mediterranean diet involves a set of skills, knowledge, rituals, symbols and traditions concerning crops, harvesting, fishing, animal husbandry, conservation, processing, cooking, and particularly the sharing and consumption of food. Eating together is the foundation of the cultural identity and continuity of communities throughout the Mediterranean basin. It is a moment of social exchange and communication, an affirmation and renewal of family, group or community identity. The Mediterranean diet emphasizes values of hospitality, neighbourliness, intercultural dialogue and creativity, and a way of life guided by respect for diversity. It plays a vital role in cultural spaces, festivals and celebrations, bringing together people of all ages, conditions and social classes. It includes the craftsmanship and production of traditional receptacles for the transport, preservation and consumption of food, including ceramic plates and glasses. Women play an important role in transmitting knowledge of the Mediterranean diet: they safeguard its techniques, respect seasonal rhythms and festive events, and transmit the values of the element to new generations. Markets also play a key role as spaces for cultivating and transmitting the Mediterranean diet during the daily practice of exchange, agreement and mutual respect.
References
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