City of history, faith, chaos and pollution with three major Muslim constructions - Red Fort Complex 231; Humayun's Tomb, Delhi 232; Qutb Minar and its Monuments, Delhi 233; Yoga 01163
What and Why
As the capital of several kingdoms and empires over the last two millennia, Delhi (Hindi: दिल्ली) contains a large array of well-preserved historic sites for the tourist to visit. As a city, it houses three UNESCO WHS which is just one short of London. Having said that, Delhi is now one of the most polluted cities in the world and it is constantly blanketed with grey smog. As in other Indian cities, Delhi is also densely populated, and exhumes the typical Indian chaos.
Delhi is of course predominantly Hindu, ironically the three WHS are all Islamic architectures and reflect the forte of Islamic rule of South Asia.
Toponymy
While there are various sayings regarding its toponym, the most likely seems to derive from दिल्ली (dehali) in Old Hindi, meaning gateway. An important confusion that needs explanation is the name of New Delhi (नई दिल्ली), which is actually a district within the city of Delhi, housing the main government offices.
See
Red Fort Complex (लाल क़िला)
The Red Fort (लाल क़िला, Lāl Qila) is a historic fort, a translation of Lāl Qila (Hindustani: لال قلعہ), which served as the main residence of the Mughal Emperors. The Red Fort is also where India declares its independence in 1947 CE and hoisted the national flag every year during the national day.
This is another masterpiece of the architecture-maniac Shah Jahan (Persian: شاه جهان, né شهاب الدین محمد خرم (Persian), Shahab-ud-din Muhammad Khurram) together with his favourite architect Ustad Ahmad Lahauri (Persian: احمد لاهوری), who of course was the famous team of Tāj Mahal in Agra (आगरा) fame, blogged earlier. This fort was built with red-sandstone in the mid-17th century CE and followed largely Islamic architectural styles, although each individual pavilion reflects a fusion of Persian, Timurid and Hindu styles. The citadel remained the emperor's residence only until the early 18th century CE, and remained unoccupied, at least palatially until today.
The main entrance is the Lahori Gate (लाहौरी गेट, Laahauree Dvaar), as below, followed by a canopied bazaar.
The Diwan-i-Am (Persian: دیوان-آهام) meaning public hall is the main area of congregation and the main landmark inside the citadel.
This is flanked by the more marble and royal Diwan-i-Khas (Persian: ديوان خاص), which is possibly the jewel inside the fort with the Islamic cloister area. Again note the similarities of these buildings with respect to the Agra Fort (आगरा का किला).
The panoramic view of the area.
All pavilions are connected centrally by a canal, called the Stream of Paradise (Persian: نهرو بیحیست, Nahr-i-Bihisht), reminiscent of Alhambra of Granada around a squarish water-garden. This is the standard charbagh (Persian: چھار باغ, chahār bāgh) design is to emulate the paradise as described in the Quran (Arabic: القرآن, al-Qurʼān). The charbagh is the four gardens of paradise mentioned in the Quran.
Humayun's Tomb
Humayun's tomb (हुमायूँ का मकबरा, Maqbara-i Humayun) is the tomb of the Mughal Emperor Humayun (Persian: همایون, né نصیرالدین محمد (Persian), Nasir-ud-Din Muḥammad), built in the mid-16th century CE. It was historically important as it was the first garden-mausoleum complex in South Asia. It was also the first structure to use red sandstone at such a scale and signalled a new era of architecture. The complex features mainly Persian Islamic architecture which reflects the area was part of the Mughal Empire (Urdu: مغل سلطنت, Mughliyah Saltanat). The grandiose of this dynastic mausoleums made it synonymouss of Mughal architecture.
The complex is easily navigated around the standard charbagh encompassing a dome with various octagonal features. The entire mausoleum sits on a huge imposing plinth, which can be climbed through a narrow steep staircase from all sides.
The sarcophagus of Humayun, as below, is qibla (Arabic: قِبْلَة)-facing and is said to elevate the status of Humayun closer to divinity.
There is a very beautiful octagonal pavilion near the tomb in Isa Khan's tomb (Persian: آرامگاه عیسی خان). Isa Khan Niazi (Pashto: عیسی خان نيازي) was a noble at the courts during the time. The tomb was constructed in the Lodhi architectural style, in a way oozing European flair, and in fact looks more like a verandah than a tomb.
Qutb Minar
The third Islamic construction that got inscribed as a WHS in Delhi is the Qutb Minar (क़ुतुब मीनार), which is 72-m minaret and a victory tower. The tower, and the surrounding complex, is a famous symbol of the synthesis of traditional Islamic architecture and Southwestern Asian design. The minaret is unique in that historically, these tower minarets were uncommon in India due to the general resistance against Islamic-styled architectures in South Asia during the time. Many minarets in India are thus built a bit far away from the main mosque.
The tower was built by Qutb al-Din Aibak (Persian: قطبالدین ایبک), who was the founder of the Delhi Sultanate (दिल्ली सल्तनत), around late 12th century CE to show the dominance of Islam faith over its people. Aibak's successors then completed a further three storeys until the top was destroyed by lightning. The top was rebuilt after the lightning and another top storey was added. On the surface of the minar is engraved with Quranic verses, from top to bottom. It is important to realise that the Islamic faith forbids to idolise persons, deities and icons, so Quranic words were used to decorate the minar instead.
There are many monumental pavilions near the minar. One of our favourites is the old pavilion of multiple columns, which is actually the Quwwat-ul-Islam (Arabic: قوة الإسلام) mosque, meaning the might of Islam. No two columns are the same, if one can observe closely! In the middle of it there is an imposing iron pillar originally made as a flagstaff.
A nice photoshot with the minar. By the way many of pavilions were built hastily when Aibak ordered its construction. The building materials came from the destructions of nearby Hindu temples and hence many of the facades show Hindu elements. Hence part of the temple complex, especially the one above, shows various images of humans and icons, which are unusual under Islamic faith. These icons simply show that the stones came from Hindu temples.
Other monuments
Delhi does have lots to offer as for tourist, in spite of the overall chaos in the city. My recommendations are as below
Akshardham (अक्षरधाम), a spiritual-cultural and overly-lavish complex that displays a traditional sect of Hindu culture and spirituality, as above in the main picture. The complex is almost Disney-like with all sorts of animatronics and 3D-shows.
Rajpath (राजपथ) and Rashtrapati Bhavan (राष्ट्रपति भवन), the main parliamentary and ceremonial boulevard including the India Gate (इण्डिया गेट)
Lotus Temple (कमल मंदिर), notable for its lotus shape, the temple for Baháʼí faith.
Chandni Chowk (चाँदनी चौक), the main city centre and bazaar
The fascinating list goes on and India will be a treat, as long as you can handle Indian hygiene standard and chaotic culture...
Buy and Do
Saree (साड़ी)
Saree (साड़ी), although this 10-m drape will inevitably tangle you all over. In fact every time my wife tries it on she needs to summon for two skilled people's help.
Yoga (योग)
My troupe has a few yoga (योग) fanatics and they would of course try a so-called genuine yoga session in where it came from. One thing we need to clear first, yoga is not about stretching. Yoga (Sanskrit: योग), means 'union', and refers to a group of physical, mental, and spiritual practices aimed at controlling or unifying the mind. The word yoga eventually gives us the word 'yoke'. Yoga is referred to in the Vedas (Sanskrit: वेदः vedaḥ), although this practice is affirmed to have developed much earlier, through the cross-interactions of Buddhism, Jainism and Hinduism. The stretching and stress-relief exercises that we now associate with yoga is strictly haṭha yoga (हठयोग), and is one tiny part of the grand scheme of yoga. Yoga consists of a large series of poses, meditation, controlled breathing, word chanting and other techniques leading to unifying and liberating the mind and body. So rather than considering it an exercise, one should rather describe it more as a philosophy or lifestyle instead.
The core principles of yoga are:
A meditative means of discovering dysfunctional perception and cognition, as well as overcoming it to release any suffering, find inner peace and salvation.
The raising and expansion of consciousness from oneself to being coextensive with everyone and everything.
A path to omniscience and enlightened consciousness enabling one to comprehend the impermanent (illusive, delusive) and permanent (true, transcendent) reality.
A technique for entering into other bodies, generating multiple bodies, and the attainment of other supernatural accomplishments.
Clearly, haṭha yoga only serves the fourth point. As a matter of fact, many thorough yoga practitioners claim that the philosophy of yoga has influenced various aspects of the social structure and civilisation of India. It is hence not surprising to hear that many people claimed they have been cheated in India for having a yoga session of meditation only...
No surprise it is listed as an ICH.
Eat and Drink
Mughlai cuisine (मुग़लाई खाना)
Delhi is located in the North and hence features a branch of Indian cuisine called Mughlai cuisine (मुग़लाई खाना). The tastes of Mughlai cuisine vary from extremely mild to spicy, often associated with a distinctive aroma and spices, and features more meat, especially mutton, compared to the more vegetarian south. My favourite has always been the palak paneer (पालक पनीर) or spinach puree with cheese cubes. My work-travels had always brought me to the vegetarian south and the paneer is a good way to quench my meat craving.
In India, we frequent this chain of restaurant called the Barbeque Nation, which features local Indian cuisine plus a fresh skewer-charbroil in front of you.
Getting There and Around
Not something totally unexpected, travelling, especially driving or being driven in India is quite a nightmare, especially in the capital city of Delhi. You sometimes wade through potholes, piles of rubbish, unbelievable traffic, incessant honks, and more-than-occasional free-wandering cows. Enjoy the ride. Delhi does have a reasonably good network of metro which can take you to almost everywhere, all sites above included.
The entrance fee to the above monuments are all INR 500₹.
UNESCO Inscriptions
The Red Fort Complex was built as the palace fort of Shahjahanabad – the new capital of the fifth Mughal Emperor of India, Shah Jahan. Named for its massive enclosing walls of red sandstone, it is adjacent to an older fort, the Salimgarh, built by Islam Shah Suri in 1546, with which it forms the Red Fort Complex. The private apartments consist of a row of pavilions connected by a continuous water channel, known as the Nahr-i-Behisht (Stream of Paradise). The Red Fort is considered to represent the zenith of Mughal creativity which, under the Shah Jahan, was brought to a new level of refinement. The planning of the palace is based on Islamic prototypes, but each pavilion reveals architectural elements typical of Mughal building, reflecting a fusion of Persian, Timurid and Hindu traditions The Red Fort’s innovative planning and architectural style, including the garden design, strongly influenced later buildings and gardens in Rajasthan, Delhi, Agra and further afield.
This tomb, built in 1570, is of particular cultural significance as it was the first garden-tomb on the Indian subcontinent. It inspired several major architectural innovations, culminating in the construction of the Taj Mahal.
Built in the early 13th century a few kilometres south of Delhi, the red sandstone tower of Qutb Minar is 72.5 m high, tapering from 2.75 m in diameter at its peak to 14.32 m at its base, and alternating angular and rounded flutings. The surrounding archaeological area contains funerary buildings, notably the magnificent Alai-Darwaza Gate, the masterpiece of Indo-Muslim art (built in 1311), and two mosques, including the Quwwatu'l-Islam, the oldest in northern India, built of materials reused from some 20 Brahman temples.
The philosophy behind the ancient Indian practice of yoga has influenced various aspects of how society in India functions, whether it be in relation to areas such as health and medicine or education and the arts. Based on unifying the mind with the body and soul to allow for greater mental, spiritual and physical wellbeing, the values of yoga form a major part of the community’s ethos. Yoga consists of a series of poses, meditation, controlled breathing, word chanting and other techniques designed to help individuals build self-realization, ease any suffering they may be experiencing and allow for a state of liberation. It is practised by the young and old without discriminating against gender, class or religion and has also become popular in other parts of the world. Traditionally, yoga was transmitted using the Guru-Shishya model (master-pupil) with yoga gurus as the main custodians of associated knowledge and skills. Nowadays, yoga ashrams or hermitages provide enthusiasts with additional opportunities to learn about the traditional practice, as well as schools, universities, community centres and social media. Ancient manuscripts and scriptures are also used in the teaching and practice of yoga, and a vast range of modern literature on the subject available.
References
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