Mediaeval Serbian Orthodox Christian monastery in a conflict epicentre - Medieval Monuments in Kosovo 724
What and Why
Visoki Dečani Monastery (Albanian: Manastiri i Deçanit) is one of the four mediaeval Serbian Orthodox Christian monasteries in the disputed state of Kosovo (Kosova). The famous historic monastery is commissioned by the King of Serbia (Serbian: Србија, Srbija) Stefan Dečanski (Serbian: Стефан Дечански, né Стефан Немањић, Stefan Nemanjić) in 1335 CE. The monastery is renowned and notable for its mixture of Gothic (German: Gotik), Romanesque and Byzantine architecture and preserves more than 1000 original frescoes and more importantly these frescoes represent the largest collection of Serbian mediaeval art.
Construction began during the Stefan's reign in 1327 CE and the original founding charter from 1330 CE has been preserved inside the monastery. However Dečanski's son, Stefan Dušan (Serbian: Стефан Душан), seized the throne in 1331 CE and had his father strangled to death shortly afterwards. Dečanski was buried in the still incomplete monastery in 1331 CE and its construction was continued and completed by Dušan.
As the monastery is located in the middle of multiple ethnic conflict zones in history, it bears witness to a history involving almost uninterrupted attack, vandalism and robbery. The monastery remains today a living witness of monastic life amidst the bloody history of the Balkans and has preserved its cultural and religious traditions for nearly seven centuries. In fact during periods of political instability and conflict in the Balkans, the Dečani Monastery has provided refuge for the local population and a symbol of spiritual resilience. In particular during the recent Kosovo conflict in the late 1990s CE, the monastery provided shelter and protection to people of all ethnicities and religions, further enhancing its role as a symbol of peace and reconciliation.
Toponymy
Deçan derives from the Latin word 'decanus', meaning 'a chief group of ten', which eventually leads to the meaning 'the chief'. It eventually enters into the English lexicon as deacon and dean.
See
Visoki Dečani Monastery (Manastiri i Deçanit)
The location of monastery is chosen so that it is secluded from urban areas where the air is considered 'wholesome'.
The architecture of the Dečani Monastery is one of its most notable features. The church, dedicated to Jesus (Hebrew: ישוע, Yeshua) and the His ascension, was designed by an Italian Franciscan (Latin: Ordo Fratrum Minorum) monk Fra Vita, which explains the unique fusion of architectural styles.
The exterior of the stone church is largely basic Byzantine and Romanesque, reflecting the cultural exchanges that occurred in the mediaeval Balkans. It is easily noticed that the stones are two-coloured, one is beige and the other is light reddish.
The exterior of the church is characterised by its Romanesque stonework, with intricate carvings and detailed stone reliefs that depict biblical scenes and figures. The facade's alternating layers of light and dark stone create a striking visual effect, while the domed structure and layout reflect Byzantine influences.
Upon entering the spacious and high narthex through any of the three doors, one finds himself in the vestibule of the Church. The narthex has an exceptionally rich iconographic scheme. In addition to the images of saints and famous figures from the history of the Serbian people, this area includes illustrations from the Calendar of Saints and the Seven Ecumenical Councils (see our blog in Saint Gallen (Sankt Gallen)). On the wall above the portal are images of the founders of the monastery, King Dečanski and Dušan.
Entering from the narthex in the central part of the church, the church’s monumental interior is quite overwhelming. All of the walls and vaults are covered with frescoes. There are a large number of images of saints depicted in the form of standing figures. These frescoes, covering the walls and ceilings, were painted by Byzantine artists and are considered some of the finest examples of mediaeval fresco paintings. They depict various biblical themes, including scenes from the life of Christ, the Virgin Mary (Aramaic: מרים, Maryam), and apostles. The frescoes are known for their vivid colors, detailed depictions, and the depth of spiritual expression they convey.
These frescoes are all stories from the Bible (Greek: βιβλία, biblia), which literally cover all walls of the church.
The altar of the monastery is one of the most impressive of the churches we have been into. A very detailed description of the frescoes and their interpretation is in the official website.
Eat and Drink
From Deçan, we travelled back to the famed wine region of Rahovec (Rahoveci) and dined in Vinica Petrović (Serbian: Виница Петровић), which is a cozy local small winery serving basic Serbian meal. As a matter of fact, Rahovec has a small but sizable Serbian population and their main occupation is viticulture. Rahovec is hence famous for the many small local wineries with a very countryside ambience. The food is so-so, but the wines are genuinely good. Rahovec or Rahoveci derives its romanised Serbian form Orahovec (Serbian: Ораховац), meaning 'walnut'.
Getting There and Around
The interesting part of this journey is not how to travel there but rather reach there safely. Kosovo is still a disputed and conflicted region and in particular Deçani monastery has suffered its large share of bombing and shelling attack, as recently in 2016 CE. The area is heavily guarded by the international peacekeeping force Kosovo Force (KFOR). Visit to the monastery is under heavy surveillance and policing and passports must be submitted at the entrance kiosk.
The church will spend you a good two hours.
There is no entry fee into the monastery.
UNESCO Inscription
The four edifices of the site reflect the high points of the Byzantine-Romanesque ecclesiastical culture, with its distinct style of wall painting, which developed in the Balkans between the 13th and 17th centuries. The Dečani Monastery was built in the mid-14th century for the Serbian king Stefan Dečanski and is also his mausoleum. The Patriarchate of Peć Monastery is a group of four domed churches featuring series of wall paintings. The 13th-century frescoes of the Church of Holy Apostles are painted in a unique, monumental style. Early 14th-century frescoes in the church of the Holy Virgin of Ljevisa represent the appearance of the new so-called Palaiologian Renaissance style, combining the influences of the eastern Orthodox Byzantine and the Western Romanesque traditions. The style played a decisive role in subsequent Balkan art.
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