Fortress of syncretism of religions - Fatehpur Sikri 255
What and Why
Fatehpur Sikri (Hindi: फ़तेहपुर सीकरी) was founded as the capital of the Mughal Empire (Persian: امپراتوری گورکانی هند, Mughliyah Saltanat) in 1571 CE by Akbar (Persian: ابو الفتح جلال الدين محمد اكبر, né ابو الفتح جلال الدين محمد اكبر (Persian), Abu'l-Fath Jalal-ud-din Muhammad Akbar), when he was serving this role during mid to late-16th century CE as the third Mughal Emperor. Akbar (meaning 'great') remained heirless until 1569 CE when his son, Jahangir (Persian: جهانگیرشاه, né نورالدین محمد سلیم (Persian), Nur-ud-din Muhammad Salim) (meaning 'world seizer') was born in the village. To thank God for granting him the wish of a son, Akbar began the construction of a religious compound in honour of the saint who had predicted the birth of Jahangir. After Jahangir's second birthday, he began the construction of a walled city and imperial palace around the compound probably to test his son's stamina.
The city was founded in 1571 CE and was named after the village of Sikri (सीकरी) which occupied the spot before and was named Fatehpur Sikri (Persian: فاتح پور سیکری), meaning 'city of victory' in Persian, to commemorate Akbar's victory in Gujarat (गुजरात). The city however was abandoned by 1610 CE due to Akbar's loss of interest in the area.
The remarkable aspect of this particular citadel is that it exemplifies the progressive attitude towards religious harmony during the era. Akbar had many wives, and amongst those the first three wives lived together in Fatehpur Sikir was one Hindu, one Muslim and one Jainist. During that time the Empire adopted a very liberal policy of religious tolerance and harmony, especially attempting to foster communal harmony between Hindus and Muslims, which was advocated by Akbar himself. This is especially evident from various architectures and sculptures which merge and mix the aspects of the three religions and cultures together. Many of the subsequent wives, maybe as many as 12 of them, were matrimonial alliances.
Toponymy
Ditto, Fatehpur Sikri means 'city of victory' in Persian.
See
We follow the plan above moving approximately from right to left from the main entrance.
Panj Mahal (पंच महल)
This is probably the most eye-catching and important buildings in Fatehpur Sikri. Panj Mahal (पंच महल), meaning 'five-palace' is an extraordinary structure employing the design elements of a Buddhist temple and stands entirely on bare columns. This is mainly a recreational terrace to watch the performances at the courtyard, especially the pool where musical concerts were conducted.
Daulat Khana-I-Khas (दौलत खाना-ए-खासो)
Located in the corner to the left is the Emperor’s private chamber, called Daulat Khana-I-Khas (दौलत खाना-ए-खासो). It has two main rooms on the ground floor. One housed Akbar’s library while the larger room was his resting area. On the first floor is the bed-chamber. It was connected with the Panj Mahal and his wives' house by corridors.
Anup Talao (अनूप तलाओ)
An ornamental pool with a central platform and four bridges leading up to it where performances were made. The pool is designed like the Persian charbagh (Persian: چھار باغ), with a squarish design, with the water replacing the four lawns.
Courtyard - There is a human-sized game of ludo at the courtyard, called the Pachisi Court. Pachisi (Persian: منچ ایرانی) is actually the origin of the game ludo, which actually mean 'I play' in Latin. Pachisi is derived from Old Hindi ‘paccīs’ meaning '25', which is the number of maximum throws of the game.
Diwan-i-Khas (ديوان خاص)
This private hall is famous for its central pillar, which has a square base and an octagonal shaft, both carved with bands of geometric and floral designs and support a circular platform for Akbar, which is connected to each corner of the building on the first floor, by four stone walkways. The column shows from top to down Hindi, Islamic, Jain patterns and
it is here that Akbar had representations from the three different religions to discuss their faiths (faiths of the first three wives) and gave private audience.
The pattern on the column.
Other carvings from different faiths.
Jodha Bai Mahal (جودا بای محل)
Akbar's three wives' palaces are just a few steps apart from each other, but this one stands large, as it is Mariam-uz Zamani (Persian: مریم الزمانی), a Hindu, who gave birth to Akbar's son Jahangir. The name of the palace means 'Mary of age'.
Big elevated bed in Mariam-uz Zamani's Palace. The elevation is to build a fire for heating during winter.
Buland Darwaza (बुलंद दरवाज़ा)
The main formidable gate, meaning 'magnificent gate' stands next to the adhering mosque: one has to walk up a very steep flight of staircase to reach the top, and you have to do it bare-foot. Apparently it is the highest gate above the ground level, at 55 m, in the world.
Jama Masjid (जामा मस्जिद)
This Friday mosque is actually the first building of the citadel, and reflects largely Persian architecture.
Tomb of Salim Chishti (सलीम चिश्ती)
This is the tomb of Salim Chishti (सलीम चिश्ती) who foretold Jahangir's birth. Many people, especially those looking for a baby, come in search of a miracle by tying a red thread onto the screen of the tomb.
Buy and Do
Outside the citadel there are quite a number of established shop lots and most of them sell stone and marble products, like Agra (आगरा). Many of them do exhibit good artistry and craftsmanship, but be patient and firm with the haggling and bargaining!
Eat and Drink
Indian curry (भारतीय करी)
Northern Indian cuisine is more bread than rice and more meat than vegetables. The curries come with a variety of meat and vegetables and is either served with a chapati (चपाती, capātī) or naan (Persian: نان). The curry, as observed, are generally a bit thicker than the southern counterpart. The word 'curry' derives from its Tamilian counterpart 'கறி (kaṟi)' meaning 'sauce' and does not necessarily suggest heat.
One questions that many people asks me was why is Indian food all curry and paste-like? No one can give me a direct answer but we know at least a few reasons: 1) India spices are the soul of their food, and spices ooze out their aromas and flavours best when they are fully ground and well mixed; 2) Indian rice is generally more discrete in nature and they do not stick, unlike Chinese rice. Indian rice, when mixed with curry paste is much easier to handle; 3) It makes storage of fresh food easier, and mixing and marinating meat and vegetables with curry paste prolongs the shelf-life of the food, especially under the hot humid Indian climate. Almost every meal in Indian is a goo.
By the way, we went with the tradition and ate with our hands in an Indian restaurant, and it does take a bit of practice. I have to say I am quite adept to it after years of travel, but you can see how my wife fares. The secret is to mix the rice and the curry through a slow-swirling motion with your fingers, eventually moulding the rice-curry-mix into a small ball or heap, and scoop the ball quickly into your mouth, as shown by my wife.
An Indian friend once told me, 'Eating with utensils is like talking to your lover via an interpreter.'. I probably disagree, and there are simply food you cannot eat with your barehands: a hotpot for example. You make the judgement on the claim.
Getting There and Around
Bus, either from Agra or Fatehpur Sikri train station which is just 1 km away, but we took a car there. Entry fee is INR 550₹. The place deserves and requires a full-day of visit.
UNESCO Inscription
Built during the second half of the 16th century by the Emperor Akbar, Fatehpur Sikri (the City of Victory) was the capital of the Mughal Empire for only some 10 years. The complex of monuments and temples, all in a uniform architectural style, includes one of the largest mosques in India, the Jama Masjid.
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