Magical use of space, light, water and greens in a Moorish castle - Alhambra, Generalife and Albayzín, Granada 314; Flamenco 00363; Mediterranean diet 00884
What and Why
Alhambra is a palace and fortress complex located on a hilltop in Granada and was originally constructed as a small fortress in the late 9th century CE on the remains of Roman fortifications. The complex was then largely ignored until its ruins were renovated and rebuilt in the mid-13th century CE by the Arab Nasrid (Arabic: بنو نصر, banū Naṣr) emir (أمير, ʾamīr) Muhammad I (Arabic: محمد, né محمد بن نصر, Mohammed ibn Naṣr) of the Emirate of Granada (Arabic: إمارة غرﻧﺎﻃﺔ, Imārat Ġarnāṭah). As usual the palace complex underwent various renovations and changes over the years, during which incorporated both Western and Islamic architectures. One very important element is that along all the refurbishments over time water features and garden interventions were addended to the complex seamlessly and spectacularly.
The complex became the most visited tourist spot in Spain (Spanish: España). In fact, many visitors say that if there would be only one place to visit in Spain, it would be Alhambra, instead of the usual suspect of our blogged Madrid or Barcelona.
Toponymy
Granada is Spanish for pomegranate (granada).
The three connected buildings all bear Islamic connotations:
Alhambra derives from the Arabic word ‘الْحَمْرَاء (Al-Ḥamrāʼ)’, meaning ‘the red’.
Generalife derives from the Arabic word ‘جَنَّة الْعَرِيف (Jannat Al-‘Arīf )’ meaning ‘the garden of the architect’.
Albayzín or Albaicín derives from Arabic word ‘البائسين (Al-Bāʾisīn)’, meaning ‘the miserable’, indicating the former poverty of the neighbourhood.
See
We started from the garden of Generalife where the main entrance and the ticket office of the complex is now located.
Generalife
Generalife was the summer palace of the Nasrid rulers of the Emirate of Granada, located right at the eastern edge of Alhambra. It was originally commissioned during the mid-13th century CE and extensions and reconstructions continued until the 20th century CE when the garden was remodelled to a more Italian design.
The garden is an exemplar of typical Moorish gardens, or charbagh (Persian: چهارباغ, chahār bāgh) where extensive use of water channels and shades are used in a quadrilateral form, similar to the blogged Red Fort (Hindi: लाल क़िला, Lāl Qila) in Delhi (Hindi: दिल्ली) and Tāj Mahal (Hindi: ताज महल) in Agra (Hindi: आगरा). However much of the Moorish elements have been removed in favour of the European designs during the 20th century CE remodelling, especially in the New Garden (Jardines Nuevos) by the architect Francisco Prieto Moreno.
Since water is such an important feature in charbagh, an extensive hydraulic system has ben designed and engineered to transport water into the complex. The main courtyard, Courtyard of the Water Canal (Patio de la Acequia) is the main feature of the site and shows a clear charbagh design, well supplied with water. Charbagh is based on the four gardens of paradise mentioned in the Quran (Arabic: القرآن, al-Qurʼān).
Part of Generalife was badly damaged by fires over the years, especially during the 1950s CE, resulting a partial ruins of the courtyard.
Inside the main building is where the royal chamber (salón regio) stands, more like a pavilion than a chamber, overlooking Albayzín. The royal chamber is fully Islamic in nature with all walls, stuccoes and friezes sculptured with Islamic motifs and Quranic verses.
Beside the royal chamber is the inner courtyard called the Sultana's courtyard (Patio de la Sultana), with a typical Moorish cloister design with a main fountain areas in the middle.
Alhambra
From Generalife we proceeded to Alhambra and entered the first part of the Alhambra, Calle Real Alta or the Street of the Royal Highness. It is interested to note that the current direction of travel is the entire opposite of the original design due to tourist traffic flow, where we entered was the original backdoor instead.
The original bath (baño) of the complex.
The first main building of impression is the Palace of Charles V (Palacio de Carlos V). The Renaissance-styled building was commissioned by the Holy Roman Emperor (Latin: Imperator Romanorum), Charles V (German: Karl V, né Karl Habsburg (German)), who wished to establish a befitting residence close to the Alhambra palaces, although he or any other emperor had never stayed inside. The building roof remained incomplete until recently in the mid-20th century CE.
While the outside looks grandiose, the inside patio is what catches the eyes. Its inner circular two-storeyed patio looks like a gladiator colosseum with Doric colonnades. Currently it is used as an art museum.
Along the path we entered the Royal Complex (Plaza de Nazaríes), and one would immediately be stunned by the sheer beauty created by the combination of light, water and plantations. This gate is called the Wine Gate (Puerta del Vino).
Upon entrance to the Royal Complex, the first in sight is the Mexuar, which used to the functional administrative offices of the emirs.
Inside the Mexuar, the rooms are stoic in nature.
Various modest and unassuming Islamic motifs in Mexuar.
Between the Mexuar and next main hall is a small patio between connects both palaces called the Gilded Room (Cuarto Dorado) featuring a restored fountain, giving an excellent sense of serenity, in spite of the crowd.
Immediately after the relatively humble Mexuar, one is given an eye-treat by the Hall of the Ambassadors (Salón de los Embajadores). This is the most majestic hall of the palace, where the throne was and where official receptions took place. The hall is completely covered by decorative Islamic inscriptions: niches, arches, walls and dressing rooms are all covered by poems. These are all praises to God or the emir, the Nasrid's motto or Quranic texts.
The ceiling of the throne room represents the seven heavens from Muslim cosmology.
The next room is the main picture of the blog, and is probably the most photographed, the Court of Myrtle (Patio de Arrayanes). Its name is due to the myrtle bushes that surround the central pond and the bright green colour of which contrasts with the white marble of the patio, which makes the scene very eye-catching, especially in the afternoon when light is reflected to surrounding halls.
One is then led to another very instagrammable spot, the Lion Palace (Patio de los Leones).
The patio is lined by arcade of slender columns, creating an a marvellous pleasure for the eyes. This palace comprised the private chambers of the royal family. According to the official website, the beauty of this palace shows incomparable harmony through light, water and architecture.
The fountain where the name came from is rather a restored piece of art.
Leading the water from the lion fountain is the Hall of the Two Sisters (Sala de Dos Hermanas). The hall was so called because of two big twin marble flagstones that are part of the floor, against popular beliefs that the name has a legend behind it.
On top of the many halls are the usual Islamic stars which both serves as an Islamic decor and light entrance.
By the way, this recurring motif of the eight-pointed star, often seen in Islamic tileworks, graphics and mosaics is usually made of two squares, one rotated 45° with respect to the other. Such patterns can be seen as mathematical tessellations, which can extend indefinitely and thus suggest infinity, and possibly points to the origin of algorithmic art. The eight directions also signify the four cardinal directions plus front, back, left and right.
Outside the Hall of the Two Sisters stands the lushy Lindaraja Garden (Jardín de Lindaraja).
Albaicín
The corner of the city, clinging to the edge of Alhambra is a previously poor neighbourhood of Moorish ancestry. Now the area is full of restaurants and shoppes supported mainly by tourism. The area is characterised by narrow cobbled alleys built over the hill slope. The view over the tops of Alhambra glowing ins the sunset is magical according to many guidebooks. Unfortunately we went there during the evening, post sunset, for dinner and missed the glow.
By the way, the houses around the area, save those are newly tourist-focussed, are typically high-walled with an orchard garden. These are known as carmen.
Sacromonte
Alongside the poorer side of the white-washed slopes next to Albaicín, one will find lots of cave houses or house built inside a rock. This neighbourhood, called Sacromonte, meaning 'sacred mountain', used to be the Granada's gypsy or Romani community, but clearly they are already driven off by the tourist boom, and these cave houses are replaced by restaurants and various shops. It remains as one of the most picturesque neighbourhoods of the city, especially during sunset. That is also one of the areas when the flamenco is suggested to have originated, as the dance traces roots gypsy's traditional dance. Many of the restaurants in the area feature flamenco as part of the dinner performance.
Gypsy, by the way, comes from the Greek word 'Αιγύπτιοι (Aigyptioi)', meaning 'Egypt (Arabic: مصر, Miṣr)', which is now proven to be unrelated, at least not its origin. Gypsies are what we refer now scientifically to Romani, where the word 'rom' simply means 'man' in Romani language, and has nothing to do with Rome (Italian: Roma) or that sort.
Buy and Do
Flamenco
Watch a flamenco performance in one of the restaurants in Albaicín or Sacromonte.
As mentioned, the origin of flamenco is sometimes attributed to the gypsies, but it is only in the 18th century CE that the current form is developed. The folklore dance is highly improvised with no strict choreography. The consistency comes with the team of four with the main dancer (bailaor / bailaora), a singer, a guitarist and a clapper. Flamenco is a very powerful and expressive dance, usually about the feelings of life, and is considered the heart and soul of the region. We had a dinner in the restaurant Jardines de Zoraya, where the above performance was conducted.
The word flamenco is the term that is synonymous with the Romani people, as during the 1800s CE when the Romani people came to the region, they usually came from the Flemish (Flamenco) region and hence the name was coined.
Flamenco is really rooted in various regional cultural activities in particular it demonstrates the harmony of the various ethnic groups in the region, especially the lower classes. This is an unmissable ICH and one cannot leave Granada without seeing one.
Eat and Drink
La Oliva
I took my troop to La Oliva in Granada. I figured this eatery out through some other's blog and one blog described the experience as religious. This is definitely not an overstatement, and I would say this is definitely the biggest highlight of our trip, and easily one of my best life-time gourmet experiences so far.
The owner of the shop is this guy called Francisco Lillo Roldán, who simply sells all sorts of olive stuffs in his shop. He obviously loves and knows everything about olives, which is an integral part of Mediterranean diet. Out of the blue, he enjoys cooking and starts serving a degustation menu to everyone. The thing that I want to say is he does it with heart, and accentuates it to the highest level of what I describe earlier. I went there actually the day before and he told me it was closed for the day. The following day was actually a bank holiday, and we thought it was over. After knowing we were all the way from Hong Kong (Chinese: 香港) and after buttering him up using my limited Spanish, he started calling his own troops and said it would be done and we were in the following day. You just cannot buy this love of your work, and it is not something you can do without heart.
We went to the shop during afternoon after our visit to Alhambra. I have to say, it is not easy to top Alhambra, and how wrong was I!
The first dish is just the olive oil (OO): three olive oils from different regions of different aromas. What better to emphasise what you are good at? I have never known that olive oils offer such complexity and could taste so differently. One of them actually tasted like chocolate! Anyway I have forgotten all about the stuffs about the three OO regions / tastes, but this dish alone brought him enough sales of OO already.
Then comes the salmorejo with flakes of jamón and were then served a salad with a vinaigrette from his extra virgin OO and we started to lose count on the dishes already. We had another round of salad, a tuna salad, chorizo, an assortment of jamón and countless rounds of wine.
The presentation of all the dish were minimal, if there were any. His restaurant looks more like his home kitchen. But there could be no mistake for his effort, passion, zeal for the whole show. I use the word show instead of a meal, as I am sure he knows he is performing, instead of cooking. He has an encyclopaedic knowledge of OO and everything about the dish he prepared. During a conversation, he said very humbly to me that he just wanted to share his food with his friends, like what he did with his family and relatives.
After 17 courses (YES 17 courses!) and the highest dosage of wine I ever had came to a farewell with Francisco. I went into his kitchen and it looked like a scene in the 18th century CE: just an old-fashioned gas stove with a chopping table with his two Argentinian girls working for him. From the most modest kitchen we got one of the best meals I ever had. The whole experience in La Oliva is an experience of a lifetime: an experience with gourmet, a scholarly understanding of olive oil but also a reflection (I was really sober when I thought about it) of how passion, heart, modesty can bring wonders to the world, where you cannot find enough earthly words to quantify and describe. Our smiles, joy, enjoyment and respect on the picture of this blog is the best testament of it all.
Stay
We stayed in the chain hotel NH Collection Granada Victoria. Excellent stay. The grandiose lobby says it all.
Getting There and Around
The entrance fee of the Alhambra complex is EUR 14€. While Alhambra is on a hillside, walking from Alhambra to Grenada via Albayzín is actually quite a pleasant downhill walk, taking us approximately a good 45 minutes. We ascended onto Alhambra by a chartered van poshly. This landmark site of Spain deserves at least two or three days of visit, and all of these are navigable by foot.
It is generally advisable to get a guide or get the ticket in advance. After all this is the most visited site in Spain and many a times tourists leave without a ticket.
Other than Alhambra, which clearly is the main draw, there are a number of other landmarks in the city:
Access to Granada is best by car or train. Granada does have its own small international airport.
UNESCO Inscriptions
Rising above the modern lower town, the Alhambra and the Albaycín, situated on two adjacent hills, form the medieval part of Granada. To the east of the Alhambra fortress and residence are the magnificent gardens of the Generalife, the former rural residence of the emirs who ruled this part of Spain in the 13th and 14th centuries. The residential district of the Albaycín is a rich repository of Moorish vernacular architecture, into which the traditional Andalusian architecture blends harmoniously.
Flamenco is an artistic expression fusing song (cante), dance (baile) and musicianship (toque). Andalusia in southern Spain is the heartland of Flamenco, although it also has roots in regions such as Murcia and Extremadura. Cante is the vocal expression of flamenco, sung by men and women, preferably seated, with no backing singers. The gamut of feelings and states of mind – grief, joy, tragedy, rejoicing and fear – can be expressed through sincere, expressive lyrics characterized by brevity and simplicity. Flamenco baile is a dance of passion, courtship, expressing a wide range of situations ranging from sadness to joy. The technique is complex, differing depending on whether the performer is male (heavier use of the feet) or female (gentler, more sensual movements). Toque or the art of guitar playing has long surpassed its original role as accompaniment. Other instruments, including castanets, hand-clapping and foot-stamping are also employed. Flamenco is performed during religious festivals, rituals, church ceremonies and at private celebrations. It is the badge of identity of numerous communities and groups, in particular the Gitano (Roma) ethnic community, which has played an essential role in its development. Transmission occurs through dynasties, families, social groups and Flamenco clubs, all of which play a key role in its preservation and dissemination.
The Mediterranean diet involves a set of skills, knowledge, rituals, symbols and traditions concerning crops, harvesting, fishing, animal husbandry, conservation, processing, cooking, and particularly the sharing and consumption of food. Eating together is the foundation of the cultural identity and continuity of communities throughout the Mediterranean basin. It is a moment of social exchange and communication, an affirmation and renewal of family, group or community identity. The Mediterranean diet emphasizes values of hospitality, neighbourliness, intercultural dialogue and creativity, and a way of life guided by respect for diversity. It plays a vital role in cultural spaces, festivals and celebrations, bringing together people of all ages, conditions and social classes. It includes the craftsmanship and production of traditional receptacles for the transport, preservation and consumption of food, including ceramic plates and glasses. Women play an important role in transmitting knowledge of the Mediterranean diet: they safeguard its techniques, respect seasonal rhythms and festive events, and transmit the values of the element to new generations. Markets also play a key role as spaces for cultivating and transmitting the Mediterranean diet during the daily practice of exchange, agreement and mutual respect.
References
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Please share your thoughts and comments about the blog. If you need suggestions to build a travel itinerary, please let me know. More than willing to help. I would also like to build a bespoke-travel community around UNESCO WHS and ICH.
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