Capital of ancient Silla - Seokguram Grotto and Bulguksa Temple 736; Gyeongju Historic Areas 976; Daemokjang, traditional wooden architecture 00461
What and Why
Gyeongju (Korean: 경주), formerly Seorabeol (서라벌), is the capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla (신라) from 57 BCE to 935 CE and hence this city is a must-visit if one is interested in Korean history. The city was at its height during the 7th to 9th century CE and at one point one of the largest cities in the world.
Aside from its once prosperity, Gyeongju also played an important role in the spread of Buddhism in East Asia, in particular to the Korean peninsula and Japan. The sect of Buddhism, Mahāyāna (Sanskrit: महायान) was adopted by Silla and various important architectures were constructed and devoted to Buddhism during the time. Many of the archaeological artefacts and monuments are all well preserved and as many say Gyeongju is a living museum. In fact even modern buildings, like train stations are built in a very classy historic way to depict Gyeongju's historical importance.
Toponymy
Gyeongju means the district of celebration, the name was coined in 940 CE, when it was made one of the capitals of Goryeo (고려), the successor kingdom to Silla which unified the Korean peninsula. Goryeo eventually became its modern form Korea (고려).
See
We follow the route from the bus terminal towards the Seokgaram.
Cheonmachong (천마총)
Cheonmachong (천마총) is a burial mound that seems to have incorporated both Central Asian and Silla elements. The tomb was for an unknown king of Silla. The name means sky horse tomb.
The main feature of the tomb is that horse-drawn flap is found in the tomb. The horse (천마, cheonma) is seen flying with eight winged-legs. Horse sacrifice was also found in the tomb to indicate the importance of equine culture and shamanism in Silla. The other side of the saddle flaps depict horsemen and the phoenix.
The tomb, as pictured above, suggests influence from Central Asia or in particular a Scythian tomb, which differs from other Korean tombs by having a wood-lined chamber running east to west and is covered in a mound of boulders and earth.
Cheomseongdae (첨성대)
Cheomseongdae (첨성대) means a star-gazing tower and is the oldest surviving astronomical observatory in Asia, being constructed in the 7th century CE. The tower, when viewed from above, resembles a circle sitting on the board of noughts and crosses, or the Chinese / Hanja character 井 (정, jeong), meaning 'a well'. The tower is also built with 365 bricks, denoting the number of days a year, while the window is on top of twelve rings of bricks, denoting the months.
Wolseong Palace (월성)
Wolseong (월성) means the moon city, and is the royal complex of Silla during its time. It is sometimes referred to as Ban-wolseong (반월성), because it is shaped like a half-moon, with ban meaning half. Much of the area is now only ruin.
Donggung (동궁)
Donggung (동궁), meaning the Eastern palace is part of the Wolseong palace complex. The buildings remain intact and well-preserved and features a famous artificial pond called Wolji (월지), meaning moon-pond. This part of the complex was built at the decline of the Silla kingdom by King Munmu (문무왕, né 김법민, Kim Beopmin).
Hwangnyongsa (황룡사)
Hwangnyongsa (황룡사) means the royal dragon temple in Korean is the icon of the spread of Buddhism in Silla. The pagoda is made entirely out of timber without a single iron nail, following traditional wooden architectural forms. Hwangnyongsa was constructed druing the 6th century CE for monks to pray for the nation by asking for the divine protection of the Buddha (Sanskrit: बुद्ध, né Siddhattha Gotama (Pali)). The pagoda is so named because a dragon was anecdoted to be seen in the site.
Bunhwangsa (분황사)
Korea's oldest monastery, Bunhwangsa (분황사), meaning fragrant royal palace is a stone temple built for monks to bless the kingdom.
Poseokjeong (포석정)
Poseokjeong (포석정), meaning 'the pavilion of stone abalone' was once the site once of a royal pavilion, claimed to have been the most beautiful royal villa of the time. However the only remain today is the granite water feature. The feature creates a small water course and during that time, people gathered around the Poseokjeong, they floated their cups of wines and these cups would move like a modern sushi-conveyor belt. When the cup stopped at a person, the person should drink and recite a poem. The water came from nearby Namsan (남산), or South Mountain valley and was appreciated for its purity.
Bulguksa (불국사)
Bulguksa (불국사), main picture above and meaning the temple for the Buddhist nation, is the head temple of the Jogye Order (조계종, jogyejong) of Korean Buddhism which is constructed during the mid-8th century CE. Not only is this the symbol of Korean Buddhism, the site is also a grand gallery of traditional Korean wooden architecture, known as Daemokjang (대목장), literally meaning great carpentry. One very important features of these traditional wooden architecture is that all pieces are assembled without using nails, creating the so-called ‘joints that withstand a millennium’. The know-how of Daemokjang has been handed down from generation to generation.
Daemokjang is one of the UNESCO ICH, although there are frequent comparisons of this with the respective traditional wooden architecture of China and Japan.
In spite of the multiple renovations and restoration, much of the structures are the same as that during the Silla era, as the wooden architecture are extremely robust.
The number of gates and staircases have significance in that they represent the steps towards enlightenment.
There are two pagodas of significance: the first one Dabotap (다보탑), the many treasure pagoda. The pagoda is mainly ornamental in nature not seen in other Buddhist sculptures around the world. The sculpture techniques used are unique for its time.
The second one is the more famous Seokgatap (석가탑), meaning 'the pagoda for Sakyamuni Buddha'. The name Sakyamuni is explained in the earlier blog in Bōdh Gayā (बोधगया). The Seokgatap pagoda is in distinct contrast with its more elaborate neighbour Dabotap and it carries a very simple and basic design.
The contrast between the simplicity of the Seokgatap and the complexity of the Dabotap is designed to symbolise the dual nature of the Buddha's contemplation and detachment from the world.
A number of important halls are there for visit including Museoljeon (무설전, hall of no words) and the main hall Daeungjeon (대웅전), the Mahivara hall. The Gwaneumjeon (관음전, Avalokiteśvara (Sanskrit: अवलोकितेश्वर)'s Shrine) stands at the highest point of the complex.
The complex includes a large number of national treasures.
Seokguram (석굴암)
From Bulguksa, one can take a leisurely walk of around 4 km to reach Seokguram (석굴암), meaning the temple in a grotto.
During the time of visit, the Seokguram was in renovation and part of the exterior was actually covered. Built during the same time with Bulguksa, the main Buddha of the grotto is a highly regarded piece of Buddhist art. The form of the 3.5 m-tall Buddha centerpiece statue is simple, realistic but astute and solemn. In particular the usual halo around Buddha's head was created by placing a granite roundel carved with lotus petals on the back wall of the rotunda.
A large number of Buddhist and Hindu figures were carved around the grotto accompanying the main Buddha. These include bodhisattva (Sanskrit: बोधिसत्त्व), Buddhist disciples, Hindu gods, and the Four Heavenly Gods (Chinese: 四大天王, sidatianwang) along the wall of the rotunda, showing the trajectory of influence of Buddhism into Korea.
Buy and Do
Along the path between Bulguksa and Seokguram, there are a good number of stalls selling Silla handicrafts and artworks, including porcelain and metalworks. As usual expect this to be over-priced compared to buying the same thing in the city.
Eat and Drink
Hoe (회)
We stayed in Busan (부산) which is famous for its Korean seafood. One of the fine dining places there is Pro Soy Crab (프로간장게장) which features high-quality soy-sauced marinated raw crab (간장 절인 게, ganjang jeol-in ge). There are many branches all over South Korea and the crabs they use are generally female with loads of roe and fat. Very very fresh, succulent and good. Definitely a must try!
It is also worth noting that sashimi (Japanese: 刺身) is not restricted to Japanese cuisine. Korean sashimi known as hoe (회) is equally important in Korean cuisine. Gyeongju is close to the sea and hence its catch is notably used as key ingredients for hoe.
Getting There and Around
We came to Gyeongju from Busan Sasang (사상) bus terminus, where one can take a 45-min bus from there to reach the Gyeongju bus terminus. From there, there are plenty of buses to reach each site. The one that goes to Seokguram will pass by almost all of the sites on the map. Spend at least two three days in Gyeongju.
UNESCO Inscriptions
Established in the 8th century on the slopes of Mount Toham, the Seokguram Grotto contains a monumental statue of the Buddha looking at the sea in the bhumisparsha mudra position. With the surrounding portrayals of gods, Bodhisattvas and disciples, all realistically and delicately sculpted in high and low relief, it is considered a masterpiece of Buddhist art in the Far East. The Temple of Bulguksa (built in 774) and the Seokguram Grotto form a religious architectural complex of exceptional significance.
The Gyeongju Historic Areas contain a remarkable concentration of outstanding examples of Korean Buddhist art, in the form of sculptures, reliefs, pagodas, and the remains of temples and palaces from the flowering, in particular between the 7th and 10th centuries, of this form of unique artistic expression.
The term ‘Daemokjang’ refers to traditional Korean wooden architecture and specifically to the woodworkers who employ the traditional carpentry techniques. The activities of these practitioners also extend to the maintenance, repair and reconstruction of historic buildings, ranging from traditional Korean houses to monumental wooden palaces and temples. The Daemokjang are in charge of the entire construction process, including the planning, design and construction of buildings, and the supervision of subordinate carpenters. The wooden structures created by Daemokjang are smooth, simple and unadorned – distinctive features of traditional Korean architecture. The traditional construction processes require both technical skills to design the building with consideration to its size, site and function, and aesthetic sense to select the lumber for the construction materials, cut and shape the wood, and assemble and interlock the separate wooden pieces without using nails, creating the so-called ‘joints that withstand a millennium’. The know-how of Daemokjang has been handed down from generation to generation and takes decades of education and field experience to master. In working to restore monumental buildings using traditional techniques, Daemokjang practitioners reinterpret the beauty of traditional architecture with their artistic creativity and re-create it with their technical skills.
References
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