City of the greatest shogun castle in Japan - Himeji-jo 661; Yama, Hoko, Yatai, float festivals in Japan 01059
What and Why
Himeji-jo (Japanese: 姫路城) is the largest castle in Japan and its architectural style is modelled by probably most of the other later castles in Japan and hence becomes another icon of Japan. The castle was first built in 1333 CE, demolished in 1346 CE and replaced with another castle. The site was rebuilt again in 16th century CE.
After Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川 家康) took power of Japan in the early 17th century CE, he granted Himeji Castle to his son-in-law, Ikeda Terumasa (池田 輝政), as a reward for his help in battle. Ikeda demolished the original keep and completely rebuilt and expanded the castle in early 17th century CE, adding three moats and transforming it into the castle complex that is seen today. In 1617 CE, the local feudal lord (大名, daimyō) Honda Tadamasa (本多 忠政) and his family inherited the castle, and Honda added several buildings to the castle complex, including a special tower for his daughter-in-law, Lady Sen or Princess Senhime (千姫), possibly giving the area the present name.
In spite of going through extensive earthquakes over the years and bombings during the Second World War, it is surprisingly well preserved. Along with Matsumoto Castle (松本城) and Kumamoto Castle (熊本城), which look fairly similar, Himeji Castle is considered one of Japan's three premier castles.
Toponymy
Himeji (姫路) means the road of the princess in Japanese, the origin is unclear. Although this is attributed also to Lady Sen.
See
The Himeji Castle complex is a massive site of more than 2.3 km2 located in the centre of Himeji on top of a hill. The castle complex comprises a network of 83 buildings such as storehouses, gates, corridors, and yagura (櫓).
The white-facade daitenshu (大天守), meaning the main keep, is the centrepiece of the complex and is 46.4 m. Together with the main keep, three smaller subsidiary keeps (小天守, kotenshu) form a cluster of towers. Externally, the keep appears to have five floors, because the second and third floors from the top appear to be a single floor; however, it actually has six floors and a basement, which houses facilities that are uncoomonin other castles, including lavatories and a kitchen. Apparently the entire structure is made of wood.
The first floor of the main keep is often called the 'thousand-mat room' because it has over 330 tatami (畳) mats. The most spectacular part of this floor is that it is a huge weapon rack holding all sorts of lances, spears, guns and rifles.
The panoramic view from the top.
According to the signboards, Himeji Castle contains a very advanced defensive system, way ahead of its time. There are gaps and slits in all shapes and forms located throughout Himeji Castle to allow gunsmen and archers to fire on attackers without exposing themselves.
One of the castle's most important defensive elements is the confusing labyrinth of paths leading to daitenshu. The gates, baileys, and outer walls of the complex are designed to confuse, causing incomers (including its residents) to travel in a spiral pattern around the complex on its way to the keep, in order to delay the approach. In many cases, the castle walkways even turn back on themselves, greatly inhibiting navigation. For example, the straight distance from the hishinomon (菱の門), the gate which looks like a chestnut, to the main keep is only 130 m, but the path is more than 330 m long.
Walking up in the interior can be equally tough even for an athletic person, as the staircases are quite steep and narrow, again to inhibit entry and approach.
Buy and Do
Nada Kenka Matsuri (灘のけんか祭り)
Honestly one of the reasons that I took an hour train to Himeji is not only to see the castle, but to watch the Nada Kenka Matsuri (灘のけんか祭り), meaning beach-fighting festival. The main event features the parade of these yatai (屋台), literally meaning a house-platform, where topless men carry the yatai, and dance around the streets. The object of the festival is to crash the yatai with the other yatai, as if these are ships: the harder the crash, the more pleased are the kami (神), or local spirits, and the more blessed the village. Without going to the details, apparently there are seven villages that participate in this festival, with each a distinctive colour and massively decorated theme.
This festival is held annually during October, and my visit coincided with it, so naturally I went to take a look. Clearly this is a Shintō (神道) festival, and only men can participate, although spectators are both men and women. It is said that the festival mimics a naval expedition during the Korean invasion in 200 CE, when the sea was foggy and stormy, leading to shipwrecks and crashes.
The yatai are built to crash and are heavy and sturdy, usually weighing two tonnes! Hence this is no stroll in the park. Moreover the yatai carry big Japanese drums (太鼓, taiko), and the parade keeps drumming until the float crashes. The festival can be quite dangerous and there have been reports of casualty in the past, especially during the violent crashes.
I was able to get a reasonably good view from one of the shops that I saw the event. I did not stay till the end. I was told that after the crash, they would bring the remnants to a nearby hill with the tired legs and do some rituals. Yatai float festival is recently added as an ICH, and I have been fortunate to witness a genuine Japanese culture.
By the way, a yatai in Japan also refers to the small, mobile food stalls along the streets. Incredibly, against common beliefs, food sold from these stalls is very pricey. It is because many people spend a lot of time inside these yatai food stalls chatting instead of really eating, the people turnover of the stalls are not high.
Eat and Drink
We stayed in Kōbe (神戸), and how could we miss Kōbe beef (神戸ビーフ)? The meat is an absolute delicacy, valued for its flavour, tenderness, and fatty, well-marbled texture. Kōbe beef, the crown of all wagyū (和牛), is a registered trademark of the Kobe Beef Marketing and Distribution Promotion Association (神戸肉流通推進協議会, Kōbe niku ryūtsū suishin kyōgi-kai) and must fulfill all the following conditions:
As we probably know, these cows are well pampered: they are brushed regularly daily and drink beer.
Kōbe beef is very expensive, mainly because only about 3,000 head of cattle may qualify as Kōbe per year based on the above standards. In Japan, all cattle, including those approved as Kōbe beef, can be tracked via a code throughout their entire life.
One of the more affordable restaurants in Kōbe serving Kōbe beef is Steakland Kōbe (ステーキランド), which looks more like a modest Hong Kong style cafeteria (Cantonese Chinese: 茶餐廳, chachanteng), but the food is equally impeccable. As above, they have to show off that their beef is genuine Kōbe beef.
This is the video of the serving. I am not joking, I can still smell the aroma through this video! Unmissable if you can afford it. This dinner cost me JPY 10000¥, and it is the affordable version, but I did not regret it and I am certain to return. Other restaurants are probably double in cost.
Getting There and Around
From the train station Himeji, it is a very quick 10-min walk to the castle entrance. You cannot miss it, as the castle is sitting on top of a hill and can be viewed from the train. The entrance fee to the castle is 600¥. The castle itself would not take you more than a half-day visit.
UNESCO Inscriptions
Himeji-jo is the finest surviving example of early 17th-century Japanese castle architecture, comprising 83 buildings with highly developed systems of defence and ingenious protection devices dating from the beginning of the Shogun period. It is a masterpiece of construction in wood, combining function with aesthetic appeal, both in its elegant appearance unified by the white plastered earthen walls and in the subtlety of the relationships between the building masses and the multiple roof layers.
In cities and towns throughout Japan, float festivals are held by communities annually to pray to the gods for peace and protection from natural disasters. The element of Yama, Hoko and Yatai float festivals encompasses 33 representative examples in various regions throughout Japan showcasing the diversity of local cultures. They involve the collaborative efforts of various sections of the community and as a traditional practice are an important aspect of the cultural identity of participants. Men, women, the young and elderly from cities and other parts of the area share responsibility for the organization and running of the festivals. This includes every step from the design and construction of the floats that reflect the diversity of local culture, to the accompanying music and overall event coordination. The Takaoka Mikurumayama Festival, for example, involves residents from the city centre assembling the floats while those from surrounding areas are in charge of pulling the constructs and playing the music. Tasks cater for specific ages with senior bearers providing guidance to those less experienced and classes run for young people. For instance, for the Ueno Tenjin Festival participants first learn how to play the music (they are referred to as hayashikata), they then progress to steering the floats (tekogata), guarding them (keigoyaku) and finally, managing the festival (saihaiyaku).
References
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