Reminder of nuclear warfare and world peace - Hiroshima Peace Memorial (Genbaku Dome) 775; Washoku, traditional dietary cultures of the Japanese, notably for the celebration of New Year 00869
What and Why
The Hiroshima Peace Memorial (Japanese: 広島平和記念碑, Hiroshima heiwa kinenhi) is actually a fairly small ruin that was previously the Hiroshima Prefectural Products Exhibition Hall and was an education and arts exhibition hall. The scale of this site is highly amplified in modern world peace as it now serves as a sombre reminder of the nuclear bombing of Hiroshima on the 6th August 1945 CE. Over 70,000 people were killed instantly, and another 70,000 suffered fatal injuries from the radiation.
The building was the only structure left standing near the bomb’s hypocentre, and its distinct dome while exposing the inner framework immediately caught people's eyes, showing the intensive destructive power of the atomic bomb. Soon it became commonly known as the Genbaku Dome (原爆ドーム), meaning atomc bomb dome, the structure was supposed to be be demolished with the rest of the ruins, but since the majority of the building remained incredibly intact, it was decided in 1966 CE that it be preserved as a monument until today.
Toponymy
Hiroshima (広島) means a wide island in Japanese. Actually Hiroshima is not really an island, but rather a river delta.
See
Genbaku Dome (原爆ドーム)
Coincidentally I actually visited the memorial one day before the anniversary of the bombing, so there was quite a bit of ceremonial postings around the memorial plaza.
During the war, Hiroshima was a strong industrial and military supply centre of Japan and hence Hiroshima was chosen as the primary target site of bombing by the Americans.
At 8:15:17 a.m. on 6 August 1945 CE, the first atomic bomb to be used in war was dropped by the United States Army Air Forces from the Enola Gay. The bomb consisted of a uranium isotope 235 core, is code-named 'Little Boy', and possessed a force equivalent to 15,000 tonnes of TNT (trinitrotoluene). The plane dropped Little Boy over the city at the local time on 6th August 1945 CE, targetting Aioibashi (相生橋), as it is a T-shaped bridge, easily recognisable from the air.
Within 43 s of being dropped, the bomb detonated mid-air over the city, missing its target by 240 m. Intended for the bridge, the bomb drifted due to the wind and instead exploded directly over the Shima Hospital (島病院, Shimabyōin), which was very near to the Genbaku Dome. Because the explosion was almost directly overhead and that the structure is almost spherical, the building was able to retain its shape and hence remained until today as the scar of the devastation. The building's vertical columns were able to resist the nearly vertical downward force of the blast, and parts of the concrete and brick outer walls remained intact. Everyone inside the building was killed instantly.
This is what the Dome looked like before the blast.
Inside the museum, a model simulating the detonation shows what the explosion was like.
The actual ground-zero is totally destroyed and is now remembered in a plaque.
Enola Gay hovered over the target area for two minutes and was ten miles away when the bomb detonated. Only a few inside the bomber knew of the nature of the weapon; the others on the bomber were only told to expect a blinding flash and given black goggles. Not very good safety practice!
People on the ground reported a pika (ピカ), a brilliant flash of light, followed by a don (ドン), a loud sonic boom. Some 70,000 people, around 30% of the population of Hiroshima at the time, were killed almost immediately by the blast and resultant firestorm. 12 km2 of the city around the epicentre was wiped off. Incidentally Japanese reinforced concrete buildings had always been strongly constructed because of the earthquake hazard, and their framework did not collapse even though they were fairly close to the blast centre.
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Plaza (広島平和記念プラザ)
One cannot deny that after roaming around the area, one cannot put your life into perspective. As mentioned, because I was visiting a day before the anniversary, there were lots of decorations, posters and propaganda reminding the hazard of war.
One particular monument is the peace chime, which chimes everyday at 8:15 am, reminding everyone the time of the blast.
Children's Peace Monument (原爆の子の像)
Draped in thousands of origami paper cranes folded by school children across Japan in the memory of the killed children.
Peace Memorial Museum (平和記念資料館)
An excellent but very gloomy museum, the Peace Memorial Museum (平和記念資料館, Heiwa kinen shiryōkan) contains pretty much everything you want to know about the bombing. One of the most important artefacts is the human shadow etched onto a stone, showing the power of heat created during the blast.
Eat and Drink
Okonomiyaki (お好み焼き)
After a gloomy and reflecting tour in Hiroshima, one must tackle the hunger by Hiroshima's specialty in okonomiyaki (お好み焼き), literally meaning cook however you like it.
Okonomiyaki is simply a savory pancake made with egg, cabbage, noodles, meat and cheese. It is grilled in front of you in layers on a hot plate and slathered liberally with okonomiyaki sauce, and sprinkled with bonito flakes, mayonnaise, pickled ginger, and seaweed. Usually at the end, the whole pancake looks like a big mess of goo, with the flakes moving lively in front of you with the steam. Morever it is very filling and delicious, especially when the filling comes with meat and seafood.
The Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki emphasises that they layer each ingredients carefully, rather than gumboing them like a mess, which is in other parts of Japan. Hiroshima citizens take great pride of their own style of okonomiyaki and the dish is an integral part of Japanese cuisine (和食, washoku), which is an ICH.
We went for lunch in Okonomi-mura (お好み村), meaning the village of okonomiyaki, a theme-park-like restaurant cluster with more than 20 okonomiyaki restaurants. You cannot go wrong with this choice.
Getting There and Around
Just a very straightforward bus-ride from the JR train Hiroshima station (広島駅, Hiroshima-eki). The entire memorial is just a couple of hour walk, although the experience can be intense to some. I spent a whole day there.
UNESCO Inscriptions
The Hiroshima Peace Memorial (Genbaku Dome) was the only structure left standing in the area where the first atomic bomb exploded on 6 August 1945. Through the efforts of many people, including those of the city of Hiroshima, it has been preserved in the same state as immediately after the bombing. Not only is it a stark and powerful symbol of the most destructive force ever created by humankind; it also expresses the hope for world peace and the ultimate elimination of all nuclear weapons.
Washoku is a social practice based on a set of skills, knowledge, practice and traditions related to the production, processing, preparation and consumption of food. It is associated with an essential spirit of respect for nature that is closely related to the sustainable use of natural resources. The basic knowledge and the social and cultural characteristics associated with Washoku are typically seen during New Year celebrations. The Japanese make various preparations to welcome the deities of the incoming year, pounding rice cakes and preparing special meals and beautifully decorated dishes using fresh ingredients, each of which has a symbolic meaning. These dishes are served on special tableware and shared by family members or collectively among communities. The practice favours the consumption of various natural, locally sourced ingredients such as rice, fish, vegetables and edible wild plants. The basic knowledge and skills related to Washoku, such as the proper seasoning of home cooking, are passed down in the home at shared mealtimes. Grassroots groups, schoolteachers and cooking instructors also play a role in transmitting the knowledge and skills by means of formal and non-formal education or through practice.
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