One of the most beautiful mediaeval European cities with a hint of former communist feel - Historic Centre of Kraków 29; Nativity scene (szopka) tradition in Krakow 01362
What and Why
Kraków (pronounced /ˈkrakuf/) is always cited as one of the most culturally rich and beautiful cities in the world in various forum, so much so that its fame lands itself being the first batch of UNESCO WHS inscriptions in 1979 CE. Banked on the Vistula river (Polish: Wisła), the city leads and develops Poland (Polish: Polska) and the region in pretty much every aspects: arts, culture, science, economics.
Just these two sentences alone, what more need I say and how can I not visit this city?
Toponymy
The name of Kraków is traditionally derived from Krakus, the legendary founder of Kraków and a ruler of the tribe of Lechitians (Lechici). Kraków is an archaic form of Krak which means belonging to Krak. This is disputed though, as Krakus first recorded mention dates back to 1190 CE, while the city existed already in the 7th century CE.
See
Wawel Castle (Zamek Wawelu)
The Wawel Castle (Zamek Wawelu) is a major historic castle complex sitting on top of a big rock and is the main reason of Kraków being awarded the first UNESCO WHS. The complex was built at the behest of King Casimir III (Kazimierz III, né Kazimierz Piast), includes a castle, a cathedral, a museum and a cave plus various other buildings. The impressive part of this castle is that it almost contains all European architectural styles in a small complex: mediaeval, Renaissance, Romanesque, Gothic (German: Gotik) and Baroque. This was due to the fact that while the complex started its construction in the late 10th century CE, buildings keep erecting on the rock for the next few hundred of years, and experienced and absorbed all the styles.
The hill on which the castle sits on takes the form of a horst originated in the Miocene epoch (23 – 25 million years ago) and consists of Jurassic limestone. This limestone is strongly karsted and this is how the name comes about as ‘wąwel ’ means ‘gorge’ in Polish.
The Wawel cathedral is built in the 14th century CE by the earlier one was destroyed by fire, as usual in mediaeval Europe, and roughly modelling its predecessor. The church is notable for its large number of side-chapels inside. The belfry contains one of the largest bells in the world.
Near the cathedral is the remarkable Renaissance palace, built by Sigismund I (Zygmunt I, né Sigismund Jagiellon). This superb palace was built by a large number of Italian artisans and German decorators. The result is the iconic tiered courtyard which is considered a fine example of Renaissance architecture, although at the same time it exhibits hints of Polish Gothic features. There are multiple splendid state-rooms inside the palace but photographies are prohibited.
Another angle of the Wawel cathedral.
One of the most important areas to explore inside the complex is the Dragon's Den (Smocza Jama), which is the limestone cave inside the rock. The cave is almost 300 m deep with an average ceiling of around 10 m. Legend has it that this cave is the lair of the Wawel Dragon (Smok Wawelski), which was eventually slain by Krak's sons. There are a number of dragon statues around the castle. A really cool, including its temperature, place to explore.
Planty
Planty is simply a lushy-green park that surrounds the Old Town (Stare Miasto), like a belt or a land-moat. A very comfortable and scenic walk around the main square.
Barbican (Barbakan)
The Barbican (Barbakan) is the fortified sentinel that used to be part of the city walls, and used to be the main entrance into the city. The formidable Gothic building is built in the late 15th century CE and is now a small museum.
Main Square (Rynek Główny)
The centre of Kraków was literally the focus of mediaeval Europe until its capital status was replaced by Warsaw (Warszawa) in the mid-16th century. It houses all the important historic and tourist elements and landmarks of the city. The Main Square (Rynek Główny) dates back to the 13th century CE and is today considered the best public areas in Europe. The square is prominently landmarked by the bronze monument of Adam Mickiewicz, the famous Polish poet, although legend has it that he had never been to Kraków. As imagined this spot serves as the meeting point for the piazza.
Another view of the main square.
During our visit, there was daily traditional parades called szopka. Szopka, means nativity in Polish and is usually a Christmas tradition that originates firmly from Kraków. This is usually held in the festive Christmas season but occasionally for touristy reason, szopka is also performed irregularly by groups for practice purpose.
The characteristics and particularity of this parade is that models of historical buildings from Kraków are used as a backdrop of Christmas and these models are being carried along the parade. This tradition originates from theatrical performance of nativity during the Middle Ages but transformed into parade during the last century, because the theatrical performances were banned at one time as they were considered over-extravagant. In the 19th century CE, the szopka tradition changed when Kraków's craftsmen began to make the model as a seasonal decoration in order to earn extra income during the winter. The custom grew in popularity, with people willing to pay to see szopka collections.
Most of the szopka model a very ornate and exaggerated form of Saint Mary Basilica (Bazylika Mariacka), although other landmarks like the Wawel Castle are also used.
Szopka is morphed into a parade in its modern form. This is now a inscribed as an ICH.
Another panoramic view of the square in the form of a video.
Cloth Hall (Sukiennice)
At the centre of the main square sits the iconic 16th-century CE Renaissance building called the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), which is currently a massive tourist souvenir shop.
The hall was once a major centre of international trade and is widely considered to be the world's earliest shopping mall. During its heydays in the 15th century CE, the hall was the source of a variety of exotic imports from the East – spices, silk, leather and wax; while Kraków itself exported textiles, lead, and salt. The upper floor is now a major museum of Polish paintings, while the basement is now constructed with an underground museum housing various historic exhibits, around some of the mediaeval underground routes. This is a recent construction and a bit of a rip-off.
Town Hall Tower (Wieża Ratuszowa)
The other focal point of the main square is definitely the embellished Town Hall Tower (Wieża Ratuszowa). The massive Gothic-style clock tower is the only building left of the old square when almost everything was demolished in 1820s CE.
Saint Mary's Basilica (Bazylika Mariacka)
The northeastern corner of the square is occupied by Saint Mary Basilica which dates back to the early 13th century CE. The building is considered a classical example of Polish-Gothic architecture.
One extremely notable thing to observe, or listen to, is on every hour, a trumpet signal called the hejnał mariacki, meaning Mary's dawn, is played from the top of the taller of two towers. The plaintive tune breaks off in mid-stream, to commemorate a famous 13th century CE trumpeter who was shot while sounding the alarm before a Mongol attack on the city.
The tune is played live by a real trumpeter and alternates across the four cardinal directions. The noon-time hejnał is broadcasted across Poland.
Krzysztofory Palace (Pałac Krzysztofory)
The Krzysztofory Palace (Pałac Krzysztofory) is a small Baroque palace located opposite to the Saint Mary Basilica. It is the location of the Historical Museum of Kraków (Muzeum Historyczne Miasta Krakowa).
Saint Wojciech Church (Kościół Świętego Wojciecha)
Saint Wojciech Church (Kościół Świętego Wojciecha) is a small stone church located in the main square. The church dates back to the 10th century CE. It celebrates Saint Wojciech (Święty Wojciech, né Vojtěch). The church now houses a number of concerts, where we shall show as below.
Saint Peter and Paul Church (Kościół Świętego Apostołów Piotra i Pawła)
A hugely impressive Baroque cathedral, Saint Peter and Paul Church (Kościół Świętego Apostołów Piotra i Pawła) was built during the late-16th century CE, it has served as the Catholic All Saints parish since the 19th century CE. The interior is very ornate, especially its organs and altars.
One notable feature is the presence of the Foucault's pendulum, which was installed in the late 1940s CE inside the church.
Church of Saint Francis of Assisi (Kościół Świętego Franciszka z Asyżu)
Another important and very conspicuous red-bricked church is the Church of Saint Francis of Assisi (Kościół Świętego Franciszka z Asyżu). The Church and its complex dates back to the 13th century CE. The cathedral includes a chapel and a monastery.
A certified copy of the Shroud of Turin (Italian: Sindone di Torino) is located in the church. The replica was consecrated by Pope John Paul II (Latin: Ioannes Paulus II, né Karol Wojtyła).
Collegium Maius Jagiellonian University (Collegium Maius Uniwersytet Jagielloński)
The Great College (Latin: Collegium Maius) is located in one of the corners of the Main Square and is the oldest building of Jagiellonian University (Uniwersytet Jagielloński), dating back to the 14th century CE. Collegium Maius is currently the location of the Jagiellonian University Museum (Muzeum Uniwersytetu Jagiellońskiego Collegium Maius), and houses many important exhibits, including paintings, maps, artefacts that showcase the Polish contribution to arts, science and cultures. The Gothic style building is definitely something to admire and appreciate.
One of the most important exhibits is the On the Revolutions of the Celestial Spheres (Latin: De Revolutionibus Orbium Coelestium), by Nicolaus Copernicus (Mikołaj Kopernik) where the concept of heliocentrism was presented. Copernicus is probably the most famous of all Jagiellonian University alumni.
The Napier's bones for multiplications.
The miniature Magdeburg hemispheres (German: Magdeburger Halbkugeln), although they were not working.
As a matter of fact, Kraków is celebrated for its publishing tradition dating back to the 16th century CE. The University is also recognised for having the first scriptorium to copy manuscripts in the 11th century CE. The city is now one of the UNESCO City of Literature.
Grunwald Monument (Pomnik Grunwaldzki)
The Grunwald Monument (Pomnik Grunwaldzki) is a statue of King of Poland Władysław II Jagiełło and was constructed in 1910 CE to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the Battle of Grunwald (Bitwa pod Grunwaldem). The statue was a reconstruction as it was destroyed during the Nazi invasion during the World War II.
Emalia
Clearly one of the most important getaways from Kraków is a visit to the Auschwitz (Oświęcim) concentration camps, but one must not forget there is another important sites to be visited within Kraków, and that is Emalia, the enamel factory of Oskar Schindler, of Schindler's List fame.
The factory was named as German Enamelware Factory (German: Deutsche Emailwarenfabrik) or DEF, and it soon became known by the nickname Emalia.
Buy and Do
There are a number of good shopping malls around, and things are fairly affordable, but I would probably stick with the Cloth Hall for my tourist shopping.
Apparently Kraków is now a much celebrated party-town and there are touts around mumbling sneazily, 'Do you want to party?' all around the Main Square area. We were told many of these parties involve bar-scams.
My cousin and I have more cultured personality, and instead of going to crazy parties and get drunk, we attended a number of music concerts. Many of these concerts are housed inside the churches featuring local musicians or music students, and the entrance fee is extremely affordable. This one we attended was held in Saint Wojciech Church.
Eat and Drink
Polish cuisine (Kuchnia polska)
The other great thing about travelling in Poland is its very affordable cost, especially dining. We had fine-dining almost every evening, and it merely cost around PLN 50 zł per person. Polish cuisines (kuchnia polska) are fairly similar to traditional East European fares, featuring pork, dumplings and cereals. Its style has become eclectic after years of mixtures with neighbouring countries. While it may not enjoy the same glamour as other more famed cuisines, Polish cuisines enjoy an elevated status in Western Europe, and the term Polish style (French: à la polonaise) is coined to denote this style. This style involves some authentic cooking style: the use of butter instead of cooking oil, frying vegetables with breadcrumbs, minced parsley, horseradish, etc.
The above features barszcz biały, a pork broth. The dish below is a marinated pork knuckle, known as golonka. We had our dinner at the Michelin-starred Marmolada, a famous local name with a number of chain restaurants around the Main Square.
Open-sandwich seems also very popular as it is ubiquitous in foodstalls in Kraków.
Stay
We moved around and during our visit in Kraków, we stayed in Greg & Tom Hostel, which is mainly for party-goers. Very friendly stay, though can be noisy and rowdy during the evening for non-party-goers like us.
Travel Suggestions and Logistics
The city is well connected by local trams and all the landmarks above are within walking distances from the Main Square. The Old Town Square is around 45 minute tram-ride away from the Kraków Airport (Kraków Airport Jana Pawła II), in Balice.
To make the best of the trip, Kraków deserves at least a week for a thorough visit with all it has to offer. As mentioned it is best to integrate this with Wieliczka, Kalwaria Zebrzydowska and Auschwitz (Oświęcim) for a full south Poland trip.
UNESCO Inscriptions
The Historic Centre of Kraków, the former capital of Poland, is situated at the foot of the Royal Wawel Castle. The 13th-century merchants' town has Europe's largest market square and numerous historical houses, palaces and churches with their magnificent interiors. Further evidence of the town's fascinating history is provided by the remnants of the 14th-century fortifications and the medieval site of Kazimierz with its ancient synagogues in the southern part of town, Jagellonian University and the Gothic cathedral where the kings of Poland were buried.
The Nativity Scene (szopka) tradition in Krakow is a social practice originating from Christmas celebration customs, centred around constructing cribs. Born in the nineteenth century, the tradition is indissolubly connected to the City of Krakow and based on skills and knowledge passed down for generations. The szopka is a lightweight construction featuring the nativity scene surrounded by representations of houses and monuments of Krakow, all transformed by the individual maker. Other scenes are also represented through figurines and artificial lighting, depicting historical, cultural and contemporary social events relating to life in the City of Krakow, Poland and the world. On the first Thursday of every December, makers gather on Krakow Main Square to present their work, and the Historical Museum of the City of Krakow makes their work accessible to the public from December to February, helping to transmit knowledge related to the practice. Practitioners include a group of forty of the most active bearers, who construct new cribs every year and run workshops and lectures to promote the practice and transmit related knowledge. The tradition is open to everyone, encompassing a wide circle of people including spectators and visitors belonging to the urban community. The practice also has significant educational functions, passing on knowledge about the history of the city, its local architecture and customs.
References
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Please share your thoughts and comments about the blog. If you need suggestions to build a travel itinerary, please let me know. More than willing to help. I would also like to build a bespoke-travel community around UNESCO WHS and ICH.
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