The king of all lighthouses - Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France 868; Cordouan Lighthouse 1625; Gastronomic meal of the French 00437; Artisanal know-how and culture of baguette bread 01883
What and Why
The Cordouan Lighthouse (French: Phare de Cordouan), often referred to as the 'king of lighthouses (roi des phares)' or the 'Versailles of the sea (Le Versailles de mer)' to highlight its grandeur and majesty compared to the rest of boring lighhouses, is located at the mouth of the Gironde estuary in southwestern France. The lighthouse easily stands out as one of the most, if not the most, iconic and historically significant lighthouses in the world I have seen. Constructed between the late 16th to early 19th century CE in a number of phases, Cordouan is not only one of the oldest lighthouses still in operation, but it also stands as a masterpiece of engineering, architecture, and an exhibit of French illustrious maritime history. Designed by Louis De Foix, the lighthouse draws inspiration from Roman mausoleums, palaces, cathedrals and made it serves more like a monument to the power of the French monarchy than only a traditional functional lighthouse.
The history of the Phare du Cordouan is intertwined with France's exemplary maritime heritage and the development of coastal navigation. Positioned at the meeting point of the Atlantic Ocean and the Gironde estuary, the lighthouse was built to guide ships safely into the port of Bordeaux, then France’s most important wine-trading centres. Prior to its construction, the treacherous waters of the estuary posed significant risks to marine traffic due to shifting sandbanks and strong currents. Cordouan was commissioned during the reign of King Henry III (Henri III, né Alexandre Édouard de Valois-Angoulême) to replace a much earlier light-tower built during the 9th century CE. The lighthouse remains functional until today, in spite of the various automatic systems installed. Due to its cultural significance, it is deemed necessary to maintain its well-being for tourism reasons, and hence the Cordouan is now the only inhabited lighthouse in France. The Cordouan Lighthouse serves definitely more than just a lighthouse; it is a cultural icon deeply embedded in French heritage. It reflects the grandeur and ambition of the French monarchy during the Renaissance and serves as a monument to the country's maritime history. The lighthouse has long been a subject of fascination for artists, writers, and travellers, who have been captivated by its beauty and remote location.
Toponymy
There are lots of debate regarding the toponymy of Cordouan. Many of the etymological and phonological discussions point to its link with our blogged city of Cordova (Córdoba), due to the trades between the region and the city. However the fact that names on maps drawn during the 16th century CE show the name 'Cordanus', which has no etymological correlation with Cordova (Spanish: Córdoba) does not suggest any linguistic connexion.
More profound research shows that the toponym is more related to the sandbanks around the waters, the Asnes. The island of Cordouan is located at the heart (Latin: cor) of the Asnes sandbanks, which appear on many maps of the region. Hence it is now believed that the name probably derives from 'Cor de Asnes' in Latin, and thus later 'Cordanus', and eventually Cordouan.
The town Le Verdon-sur-Mer literally means 'Verdon on the sea' in French. Verdon is a touristic river gorge in the Southern Region (Region Sud) of France.
See
Cordouan Lighthouse (Phare de Cordouan)
To access the lighthouse, one has to take the official tour at the pier from Le Verdon-sur-Mer, which we shall discuss in more details later. There is only one trip a day and the journey lasts approximately 45 minutes, usually starting at around 11 am and the visit ends usually at 3 pm. This is to coincide with the high tide of the day so that the amphibian boats can sail safely.
When we disembarked, to every passengers' astonishment, the crew member pointed to the middle of the sea and announced that everyone would gather there at 2 pm and walk back! No further information given, and I believe the sailors do it everyday to have fun to see everyone's scared face. As a matter of fact, that corresponds to the low-tide of the day and the water virtually subsides and a cobblestone causeway would surface, as one will see later.
The entrance of the lighthouse is shown above. Once can see that this was constructed largely of limestones quarried from nearby regions, and was designed to resist the wear and tear of ocean waves and saltwater erosion. The innovative use of materials and engineering techniques made Cordouan a model for future lighthouse construction. The overall architectural design combines Renaissance, Gothic (German: Gotik), and classical styles. The elegant lighthouse rises to a height of 67.5 m and is composed of several distinct levels, each with its own decorative elements and purposes.
The main lobby at the first floor shows the beauty equivalence of a cathedral, especially with the beige hue of the limestones. As the picture below shows, no one would have guessed that this picture was taken from a lighthouse in the middle of the sea. One can see from here the base of the lighthouse is fortified to withstand the harsh conditions of the sea, and the lower floors include a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary (Aramaic: מרים, Maryam), with intricate stone carvings and stained glass windows.
The upper levels are characterised by ornate cornices, arches, and statues, oozing a unique blend and flair of functionality and aesthetics. The lighthouse also features a royal apartment, originally intended for visits by the French monarchy, highlighting its status as a symbol of power and prestige.
The architectural plan of the lighthouse is as below.
As mentioned earlier, the lighthouse had undergone a number of renovations and construction modifications over the years. The signboard shows how the lighthouse changed over the year.
To reach the top one needs to climb 301 steps. I was quite proud that my two-year son was athletic enough and managed to climb them all on his own. I did have to carry him back from the top to ground-level on the way back.
At the top one can see the big light bulb room of the lighthouse, and a sign showing how this lamp has changed over the course of history.
The halogen-lamp is now fully automated. For physics aficionado, the first Fresnel lens rotating system, invented by Augustin Fresnel of modern overhead projector fame, was installed in Cordouan in 1823 CE. His statue is in one of the atria.
The lamp taken from a drone.
A few picturesque views from the top of the lighthouse.
From the top, during low tide, one can see how the cobblestone causeway has surfaced.
The descent and return journey is really the real adventure and highlight. As mentioned, at around 1:30 pm, the sea reaches its low tide, and one can see the causeway. We gathered at the end of the causeway and thought we would embark on the amphibian vessel and sail back...
Instead we were told that we need to walk back to the vessel, wading the water. The photograph below shows the distance of the walk, which does not do justice to illustrate the real danger. I estimated the walk was at least 1 km.
Some of the deepest part of the walk involved wading knee-deep high water. The difficult part was that we were carrying two babies and two very young children. It was not really a matter of weight or strength, but rather the safety involved in this activity. The picture below shows the depth of the water and one of the crew members assisting our friend with her baby.
As an engineer I have to put on record that this activity does involve very high safety risk which we were not properly informed or prepared for. While my family and I actually liked this walk and found this a lot of fun and memories, I believe the ferry company should have at least provided an alternative to ferry some of the young children, disabled or elderlies without the need to walk. Some of the local tourists saw us and actually argued with the ferry company about this arrangement.
Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Fin-des-Terres
The Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Fin-des-Terres, translated as the 'Basilica of Our Lady of the End of the Earth', is a significant cultural and historical landmark located in Soulac-sur-Mer, just a few kilometres away from Le Verdon-sur-Mer. This basilica is celebrated for its unique Romanesque architecture but more importantly its inter-cultural role in mediaeval pilgrimage route, the Saint James's Way (Spanish: Camino de Santiago), to Santiago de Compostela, as blogged in Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert.
Built in the 12th century CE, the church's name, though exaggerated, reflects its remote location on the Atlantic coast, symbolising a place of spiritual completion for mediaeval pilgrims. The site has attracted pilgrims for centuries, not only for its religious significance but also for its supposed healing powers. The church also houses the relics of Saint Veronica (Koinē Greek: Βερενίκη, Verenike) and adds to its mystique and allure.
From a tourist point of view, there is a night market outside the basilica every Saturday evening, selling local produces and meats.
Wine châteaux and vineyards (Châteaux viticoles et vignobles)
The nearby Médoc region is probably the world's most important region of red wines, made predominantly from the Cabernet Sauvignon grape variety. Clearly wine is a major part of the French gastronomic cuisine which is itself an ICH. We shall discuss this in more details in our blog of Bordeaux, especially its culture and classification.
From Le Verdon-sur-Mer, after a 30-minute drive, one will reach Pauillac, a well-regarded a commune and appellation on Bordeaux's Médoc peninsula. It is home to some of the world's most famous and expensive red wines and naturally we paid homage to these wine châteaux. We managed to visit the three biggest names in the business: Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Lafite Rothschild and Cos D'Estournel. To be honest, just hearing these three names had put me in awe.
With a prestigious reputation for structured, complex, and age-worthy wines, Pauillac’s vineyards are home to three of the five original Premier Cru châteaux classified in the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification (classements des vins de Bordeaux) of 1855 CE: Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, and Château Mouton Rothschild. These wines are not only celebrated for their overall quality, intensity and balance, showcasing the unique terroir of the region, but also for their success in international fine wine markets.
The terroir in Pauillac is ideal for viticulture, with a combination of well-draining gravelly soils, a mild maritime climate, and the influence of the Gironde estuary. The gravelly soil retains heat, helping ripen the grapes and allowing roots to reach deep into the earth for water and minerals, which contribute to the depth of flavour and complexity of Pauillac wines. The main grape variety is Cabernet Sauvignon which contributes to more than 80% of the blend, flourishes in Pauillac’s climate and gives the wines their signature structure, tannins, and dark fruit flavours. Other grapes like Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and small amounts of Petit Verdot are often blended to add additional aromatic and flavour complexity.
Pauillac wines are known for their robust tannic structure, full body, and the ability to age gracefully over decades. The flavour profile typically includes rich, concentrated dark fruits like blackcurrant, blackberry, and plum, with layers of graphite, cedar and earthy notes, often described as 'pencil shavings'.
The Appellation d'Origine Protégée (AOP) zone is located between Saint-Estèphe and Saint-Julien districts in Pauillac.
We did ask why were the vineyards so open to the public, considering its value. As a matter of fact anyone can walk into the vineyard and pick the grapes. To answer it simply taste the grapes: the grapes are extremely sour to the point of corrosive and inedible, and they are only used for wine-making. Moreover these châteaux had developed their individual reputation and know-hows for centuries and there was almost no point to worry about counterfeiting.
By the way, no one mull wine by tramping the grapes by feet anymore. The process has long been industrialised and adheres strictly to hygiene standards.
Buy and Do
What else but getting a few bottles from Pauillac? Other than that, do visit the night market at Soulac-sur-Mer.
Eat and Drink
Seaweed (Algue)
The area is a major breeding ground of one type of edible brown seaweed (algue) Chorda filum, or commonly called the dead man's rope. Studies have shown that the dead man's rope is rich in antioxidants that help in reducing the ageing process and decrease the risk of diseases such as cancer. Although edible, the dead mean's rope is not widely used as a food source until recently. The taste is actually quite sweet compared to our Asian counterparts!
There is actually a separate tour of the lighthouse that includes the culinary aspect of this seaweed, but it was not available during our visit.
Baguette
The slender, crusty baguette bread loaf is not just a French culinary icon; it is an embodiment of French culture, tradition, and everyday life. Recognised globally for its distinctive shape, crispy exterior, and soft crumb, the baguette holds a significant place in the hearts of the French people and has gained worldwide fame as a cultural symbol of France. The baguette’s importance was formally acknowledged when it was inscribed as an UNESCO’s ICH in 2022 CE, underscoring its role not just as a food item but as a cultural heritage deserving preservation.
The baguette as we know it is surprisingly a relatively recent creation, with its origins tracing back to the early 20th century CE, with the name 'baguette' meaning 'stick' adopted only in the 1920s CE. This shape and texture is said to favour for ease of transport in the busy urban settings of France and for storage for a few days as the country becomes more populous and industrialised.
Certainly bread has been a staple of French cuisine for aeons, and there is no conclusive point in which the baguette was invented, at least not by a single event of person. One definitive point was that the Viennese steam oven baking (cuisson au four à vapeur viennois) was introduced to France in 1839 CE by the Austrian businessman August Zang, and hence it led to the development of the Viennese bread (pain viennois) baking method and thus the refined baking of the baguette.
It was only around the beginning of the 20th century CE, however that the thin, elongated shape of the baguette began to gain widespread popularity, and various regulations of its shape, ingredients were defined. French law now stipulates that the 'baguette de tradition' designation can only be made with four ingredients: flour, water, yeast, and salt, without preservatives, to preserve the authenticity and quality of this iconic loaf. A few diagonal cuts are usually made on the surface to create a signature for the bakery.
The baguette’s popularity grew further in the 1970s CE when bakeries started emphasising artisanal bread-making, drawing on traditional techniques and quality ingredients to create a standard loaf that is nearly ubiquitous across France and possibly worldwide. Today, the baguette remains an everyday staple that is unimaginable to have a bakery (boulangerie) in the country not carrying it, with around 30 million baguettes baked daily across France. Incredibly countries like Algeria (Tamazight: ⴷⵣⴰⵢⴻⵔ, Dzayer) and Vietnam (Vietnamese: Việt Nam), in the form of bánh mì (as blogged in Hội An), apparently consume more baguettes than France. The baguette’s influence has definitely transcended France, making it a popular bread style in bakeries worldwide.
The baguette is categorically a cultural ritual deeply embedded in French society. Visiting a bakery for a fresh baguette each morning is a daily ritual for millions of French people, symbolising the importance of high-quality food in French culture. Another common sight in France is that of someone carrying a baguette under their arm, often tearing off a piece to nibble on while walking home or to work. Buying a baguette is also commonly seen as the first thing a French child buys and it becomes symbolic of a child's independence. Sharing a baguette at the dinner table is an act of closeness and togetherness. It is also customary to break the bread by hand rather than cut it on the table, a practice that highlights the communal nature of meals in French gastronomical culture.
We had our breakfast baguette ritual when we were waiting for the ferry at Le Ponton. Typically high quality stuffs.
Getting There and Around
Le Verdon-sur-Mer is around one-hour drive away from Bordeaux. One can only reach the lighthouse through the official tour company. The tour takes around four hours and costs EUR 48€. The lighthouse trip serves an excellent day-trip from Bordeaux.
The château visit costs usually around 50€ per person, depending on the individual château.
Other than driving, there is a train station connecting Le Verdon-sur-Mer with Bordeaux.
Travel Suggestions and Logistics
Le Verdon-sur-Mer is a good day-trip from Bordeaux which was exactly what I did. I also combined it with another side-trip to Saint-Émilion and made it a full-week trip for my family. I believe renting a car would be the best option as this would facilitate visit to the vineyards and châteaux. To visit the most famous châteaux one has to make a reservation at least six months ahead of the visit. The big names also tend to limit their public visits during the summer as this is their time for international sales.
UNESCO Inscriptions
Santiago de Compostela was the supreme goal for countless thousands of pious pilgrims who converged there from all over Europe throughout the Middle Ages. To reach Spain pilgrims had to pass through France, and the group of important historical monuments included in this inscription marks out the four routes by which they did so.
The Lighthouse of Cordouan rises up on a shallow rocky plateau in the Atlantic Ocean at the mouth of the Gironde estuary in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, in a highly exposed and hostile environment. Built in white limestone dressed blocks at the turn of the 16th and 17th centuries, it was designed by engineer Louis de Foix and remodelled by engineer Joseph Teulère in the late 18th century. A masterpiece of maritime signalling, Cordouan’s monumental tower is decorated with pilasters, columns modillions and gargoyles. It embodies the great stages of the architectural and technological history of lighthouses and was built with the ambition of continuing the tradition of famous beacons of antiquity, illustrating the art of building lighthouses in a period of renewed navigation, when beacons played an important role as territorial markers and as instruments of safety. Finally, the increase of its height, in the late 18th century, and the changes to its light chamber, attest to the progress of science and technology of the period. Its architectural forms drew inspiration from ancient models, Renaissance Mannerism and the specific architectural language of France’s engineering school École des Ponts et Chaussées.
The gastronomic meal of the French is a customary social practice for celebrating important moments in the lives of individuals and groups, such as births, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, achievements and reunions. It is a festive meal bringing people together for an occasion to enjoy the art of good eating and drinking. The gastronomic meal emphasizes togetherness, the pleasure of taste, and the balance between human beings and the products of nature. Important elements include the careful selection of dishes from a constantly growing repertoire of recipes; the purchase of good, preferably local products whose flavours go well together; the pairing of food with wine; the setting of a beautiful table; and specific actions during consumption, such as smelling and tasting items at the table. The gastronomic meal should respect a fixed structure, commencing with an apéritif (drinks before the meal) and ending with liqueurs, containing in between at least four successive courses, namely a starter, fish and/or meat with vegetables, cheese and dessert. Individuals called gastronomes who possess deep knowledge of the tradition and preserve its memory watch over the living practice of the rites, thus contributing to their oral and/or written transmission, in particular to younger generations. The gastronomic meal draws circles of family and friends closer together and, more generally, strengthens social ties.
The baguette is the most popular kind of bread enjoyed and consumed in France throughout the year. The traditional production process entails weighing and mixing the ingredients, kneading, fermentation, dividing, relaxing, manually shaping, second fermentation, marking the dough with shallow cuts (the baker’s signature) and baking. Unlike other loaves, the baguette is made with only four ingredients (flour, water, salt and leaven and/or yeast) from which each baker obtains a unique product. Baguettes require specific knowledge and techniques: they are baked throughout the day in small batches and the outcomes vary according to the temperature and humidity. They also generate modes of consumption and social practices that differentiate them from other types of bread, such as daily visits to bakeries to purchase the loaves and specific display racks to match their long shape. Their crisp crust and chewy texture result in a specific sensory experience. The baguette is consumed in many contexts, including during family meals, in restaurants, and in work and school cafeterias. The production process is primarily transmitted through work-based training, combining school courses with work experience in a bakery. This apprenticeship enables future bakers to acquire the necessary knowledge of the ingredients, tools and process.
References
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Please share your thoughts and comments about the blog. If you need suggestions to build a travel itinerary, please let me know. More than willing to help. I would also like to build a bespoke-travel community around UNESCO WHS and ICH.
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