A mediaeval monastery with a well-preserved wall gallery of Carolingian art - Benedictine Convent of St John at Müstair 269
What and Why
The Benedictine Convent of Saint John (Romansh: Claustra Benedictina da Son Jon), named after Saint John the Baptist (Hebrew: יוחנן המטביל, Yvhnn Hmtbyl) is an abbey established all the way in 780 BCE in the small village of Müstair of Switzerland (Svizra). According to legends, Charlemagne (né Charles Martel) King of the Carolingian Empire (Latin: Imperium Romanum) was travelling in the region, when he was hit by a massive snowstorm. He survived the storm without major harm and as a devout Christian he was thus thankful to the supreme powers and hence decided to establish a monastery to commemorate his miraculous survival. It is very likely that it was the Bishop of Chur who founded the monastery at Charlemagne's behest.
The monastery became an important centre for Christian education, just as any other monasteries during Charlemagne's time. In particular, Charlemagne identified the location as ideal for the spread of Christianity as it was almost the cross-roads of the Alps where there were plenty of travellers and pilgrims from all of Europe. During the construction of these monasteries, a lot of artisans were recruited who used their skills to paint and decorate the monasteries, with most of these decors based on the manuscripts written by the monks. Saint John's abbey collected probably the finest examples of these art, known as Carolingian art, and became a centre for a period of cultural explosion called the Carolingian Renaissance (French: renaissance carolingienne).
It is in the conventual church that one can observe and admire the Carolingian frescoes that date back to the early 9th century CE. Although the Carolingian frescoes and murals have lost their hue due to the ravages of time, they remain the most important preserved Carolingian frescoes in situ in Europe.
Toponymy
The name Müstair is the Romansh (Rumantsch) derivative of the German word 'münster' meaning 'minster' or 'cathedral'.
See
Benedictine Convent of Saint John (Claustra benedictina da Son Jon)
The monastery complex is actually quite small. One can easily explore the entire place within one hour without looking at details on the paintings.
Due to the age of the convent, it actually shows a wide range of artistic and architectural styles, ranging from Carolingian and Romanesque to Gothic (German: Gotik) and Rococo. The central conventual church was built during the 9th century CE and survives until today with various renovations undertaken during the 15th century CE. The main clock tower, called the Planta tower (Torra Planta) was built in 960 CE but reconstructed in 1499 CE and is the oldest fortified tower in Europe.
Most of the frescoes are in the conventual church and almost all of them dates back the the 9th century CE. As expected all of them are discoloured and worn down. Whatever the state they give a glimpse of the mediaeval art during the Carolingian Renaissance period. Artistically we were told that the frescoes are an outstanding example of mediaeval Christian iconography, depicting scenes from the Bible, especially by default the life of Jesus (Hebrew: ישוע, Yeshua). Their style reflects a blend of Roman, Byzantine, and local influences, showcasing the transition from late antiquity to the mediaeval period. The use of vivid colours and the detailed portrayal of figures are particularly remarkable, revealing the artistic techniques and religious sensibilities of the time. Many of the paintings are now housed in the small museum, but during the time it was closed for renovation.
Other frescoes.
As the church was converted to a convent during its history, there are a number of portraits depicting punishment to women. The church does remind me of the Boyana Church (Боянска Църква, Boyanska Tsărkva) in our blogged Sofia (София).
Swiss National Park (Parc Naziunal Svizzer)
Established in 1914 CE, the Swiss National Park (Parc Naziunal Svizzer) was the first national park of Switzerland, and it covers a massive area of more than 180 km2 with wide-ranging topography. The park naturally is populated by various types of local animals and plants. The park is extremely well managed, as in everything Swiss, with very well-marked trails and clear signboards.
Getting There and Around
Honestly the only way is to drive. There is a bus to our blogged Saint Moritz (Sankt Moritz) but it is not regular and the journey is more than two hours. Müstair is around one hour drive away from Saint Moritz (German: Sankt Moritz) where we stayed. The jaw-dropping Ofenpassstrasse is the only highway that passes through the Swiss National Park and Müstair.
Notice that we have entered the Romansh-speaking region of Switzerland.
The abbey is an easy half-day trip while the Swiss National Park can be a full day exploration.
UNESCO Inscription
The Convent of Müstair, which stands in a valley in the Grisons, is a good example of Christian monastic renovation during the Carolingian period. It has Switzerland's greatest series of figurative murals, painted c. A.D. 800, along with Romanesque frescoes and stuccoes.
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