Complex of Jain and Hindu temple - Group of Monuments at Pattadakal 239
What and Why
The sacred temple complex of Pattadakal (Hindi: पत्तदकल, Paṭṭadakallu) is a very well-preserved historic site featuring Hindu and Jain temples. These temples are largely built during the 7th or 8th century CE during the Chalukya (Kannada: ಚಾಲುಕ್ಯ) dynasty. These temples are impressively designed and are architecturally acclaimed, especially towards the eclectic blend of Hindu and Jainist architecture, and North and Southern Indian architecture. Unlike other temple ruins in India, the site is very regular and well landscaped.
During its heydays, Pattadakal became a major focal point of intellectual, religious and cultural exchange in South India. It was during this time that there was extensive experimentation in architecture, resulting in this UNESCO WHS.
Toponymy
Pattadakal or the recent localised name Paṭṭadakallu (Kannada: ಪಟ್ಟದಕಲ್ಲು) means the place of coronation in local language, and refers to its function to the empire.
See
We follow the suggested path from the entrance which is at the top right of the plan above. Most of these temples face the East which is typical of Hindu temple.
Jambulingeshwara (जम्बुलिंगशवरा)
A small unassuming sandstone Hindi temple near the entrance.
Galaganatha Temple (गलगनाथ मंदिर)
This 8th century CE sanctum has a covered circumambulatory path (प्रदक्षिणा पाथा, pradakshina patha), indicating that this Hindu tradition during the period. Various mandapas exist in this temple used for social and ceremonial functions.
The temple is mostly in ruins, except for the southern part which contains a carved slab showing an eight-armed Shiva (Sanskrit: शिव, Śiva) killing the demon Andhaka (Sanskrit: अन्धक).
This temple is notable for being almost an exact copy of the Alampur Navabrahma Temples (आलमपुर नवब्रह्म मंदिर) that dated to the late 7th century CE, which it is assumed that there was some kind of idea exchange or plagiarism.
Sangameshwara Temple (संगमेश्वर मंदिर)
Sangameshwara Temple (संगमेश्वर मंदिर) is the earliest temple in the complex and was elected by the the Chalukya king Vijayaditya (विजयादित्य) in 734 CE according to the temple inscriptions. Although the temple is not the largest among those at Pattadakal it is nonetheless very imposing in shape. The squarish temple is surrounded by a covered circumambulatory path lit by three carved windows. Inside the sanctum of the temple are shrines once contained carvings of the important deities Ganesha (Sanskrit: गणेश) and Durga (Sanskrit: दुर्गा), although they are now missing.
Kashi Vishwanatha Temple (काशी विश्वनाथ मंदिर)
The Kashi Vishwanatha temple (काशी विश्वनाथ मंदिर) is the square sanctum (गर्भगृह, garbhagriha), which houses a big lingam (Sanskrit: लिङ्ग). To the east of the garbha griha is the moulded platform of a Nandi (Sanskrit: नन्दि)-mandapa, featuring the image of a seated bull Nandi, the carrier of Shiva. The temple also features a prominent pranala, a stone structure used to drain out water used during devotional activities, and an antarala, connecting to a mandapa with a ruined entrance porch. The river goddesses Gaṅgā (गंगा, goddess of ablution) and Yamuna (यमी, goddess of life) are still visible at the entrance. The temple sits on a platform, with elaborate decoration of animal and plant carvings.
The superstructure of the temple, displaying a well developed North Indian temple style, which can be seen in many other Hindu temples.
Inside the temple are pillars and pilasters beautifully carved with friezes depicting the Bhagavata Purana (Devanagari: भागवतपुराण), the Shiva Purana (शिव पुराण) and the Ramayana (Sanskrit: रामायणम्).
Mallikarjuna Temple (मल्लिकार्जुन मंदिर)
The temple is famous for its experiments with new architectural ideas that makes it distinct. For example, the roof is hemispherical unlike the other typical square roofs in other temples. The use of stone carvings for storytelling is prevalent throughout the temple. The legends of Hindu epics and the Puranas (Sanskrit: पुराण) are depicted on the temple pillars in the community hall.
Virupaksha Temple (विरुपाक्ष मंदिर)
Next to the Mallikarjuna Temple is its twin Virupaksha Temple (विरुपाक्ष मंदिर), which is the largest and most sophisticated temple of the site. Both temples are dedicated to Śiva and were constructed in the mid-7th century CE. The temple is notable for its range, and quality, of construction exemplifying a well developed South Indian (Dravidian) architectural style.
The temple has numerous friezes spanning both daily lives or epic stories. A few depict scenes from the Ramayana, Mahābhārata (Sanskrit: महाभारतम्), Bhagavata Purana and other Hindu texts. The temple is renowned for inscribing historically significant portraits about the society and culture of 8th-century India. The famous Kailāśa (कैलास) temple at Ellora Caves was actually modelled after this temple.
Papanatha temple (पापनाथ मंदिर)
The temple is noted for its novel mixture of Dravida, and Nagara, Hindu temple styles which suggests it was constructed in different phases.
Narayana Temple (नारायण मंदिर)
This Jain temple was built much later during the 9th century CE. This temple features a prominent mandapa with a row of lathe-turned sandstone pillars. The facade are well sculptured with dancers and old Kannada inscriptions.
Badami (बदामी)
A good 10 km away from Pattadakal is Badami which is famous for its rock-hewn cave temple and architecture. The town was once the capital of the Chalukya dynasty. Similar to Pattadakal, these temples worship both Hindu and Jain deities.
The cave features and worships Śiva, where a promient sculpture shows his dance positions arranged in a geometric pattern, which symbolises the cosmic wheel.
Cave 4 is a Jain temple that worships Bahubali (बाहुबली, one with strong arms). He is said to have meditated motionless for twelve years in a standing posture (kāyotsarga (Jain Prakrit: काउस्सग्ग)) and that during this time climbing plants grew around his legs and he achieved omniscience (kevala jñāna (Sanskrit: केवल ज्ञान)).
Aihole (ऐहोल)
Aihole (ऐहोल) is a historic site 10 km east featuring well constructed Buddhist, Hindu and Jain temples. The finest monument of all is the Durga temple as above. The temple is very unusual because of its apsidal sanctuary surrounded by an open colonnade. Many Hindu deity sculptures are placed inside the niches of the colonnades. The temple is not named after goddess Durga (Sanskrit: दुर्गा), in spite of its name. According to local tradition, a stone rubble durg (दुर्ग) was assembled on its flat roof and locals therefore began calling it the Durga temple.
Eat and Drink
Corn chapati (मकई चपाती)
The area is very poor and some of the food are really local. One of the food that I have tried is the corn pop and a corn chapati.
I have to say that the chapati is very dry and tough to palate, unlike the usual wheat-based one.
Local poverty condition ensures that consummate use of the corn ear. The corn leaves and ears are used as fuel for cooking and heating in a stone stove.
Getting There and Around
The fun of this journey is really not these temples, which honestly I knew very little at the time of visit. The journey itself is the interesting part of looking for UNESCO WHS. I started my journey from my usual sentinel in Bangalore (बंगलौर, Bengaluru) and took a 12-hour overnight sleeper bus to reach the town of Pattadakal. From there I had to take a local rickshaws to get to the temple ruins, Badami and Aihole, which is 30 minutes away.
These buses really have a flat bed, pillow and quilt but you are expected to well harness yourself during the journey.
UNESCO Inscription
Pattadakal, in Karnataka, represents the high point of an eclectic art which, in the 7th and 8th centuries under the Chalukya dynasty, achieved a harmonious blend of architectural forms from northern and southern India. An impressive series of nine Hindu temples, as well as a Jain sanctuary, can be seen there. One masterpiece from the group stands out – the Temple of Virupaksha, built c. 740 by Queen Lokamahadevi to commemorate her husband's victory over the kings from the South.
References
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