Puerto Iguazú

Updated: Apr 24, 2022

The roaring, gigantic waterfall system - Iguazú National Park 303; Iguaçu National Park 355

What and Why

Upon seeing the spectacular Iguazú, the former American First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt reportedly exclaimed, 'Poor Niagara!'. When we were touring and told some of our friends we would be visiting Iguazu, they echoed and claimed, 'You won't need to visit another waterfall after that.'. You can imagine the sheer majesty and greatness of this incredible fall based on these two statements. The falls are confirmed as one the the New7Wonders of Nature in 2012 CE.

Toponymy

The name Iguazú comes from the Guarani 'y', meaning water, and 'ûasú' meaning big. The big water provides enough energy to power the region, however the huge Itaipu Dam was not complete until the 1990s CE.

See

The fall cuts across the Argentina–Brazil border, and there are tours or ferries that cross the borders and go from one country to another. The Argentinian side is the Iguazú National Park (Spanish : Parque Nacional Iguazú) while the Brazilian counterpart is Iguaçu National Park (Portuguese: Parque Nacional do Iguaçu). The ferry-shower ride passes through both parks and serve similar viewpoint destination in the fall.

The Iguazu Falls are arranged in a way that resembles a letter J. The Argentina–Brazil border runs through the Devil's Throat. On the right bank is the Brazilian territory, which is home to more than 95% of the Iguazu River basin and contains the bulk of biodiversity but has just over 20% of the jumps of these falls. The left side jumps are Argentinian, which makes up almost 80% of the falls. Take your pick.

Argentinian-Brasilian border of Iguazu fall (from internet)

The Iguazu falls are a series of staircase-waterfalls that are more concentrated along the Argentinian border. There are around 300 distributed all over the two parks, but if you are walking from the Argentinian side, you will see most of them, at least from a reasonably close distance.

Upon entry from the Argentinian side of the park, you will be whisked to the main fall areas through the Tren de la Selva.

Iguazú National Park guide map (from internet)

Devil's Throat (Garganta del Diablo)

The Devil's Throat (Garganta del Diablo) is the largest of the fall and is so big that it looks like a massive abyss with no end to it. The roaring sound of the water is absolutely intimidating and unforgettable, and literally you will hear the fall way before you see it. This is definitely the focus of the entire park.

There large series of water cascades make fantastic and unforgettable photospots. There are multiple points in which we can see the throat but the main site is an island in the middle of the fall which is accessible through the access bridge from the Argentinian park. The amount of water gushing into the abyss is really stunning.

By the way there are plenty of lovely raccoons running around the park but apparently they attack humans.

I have not been to the Niagara Fall's yet, and hence I cannot comment on Roosevelt's exclamation, but I can assure you that this fall is breath-taking. The throat canyon is 80–90 m wide and 70–80 m deep. The Argentinian side accesses the fall from the top while the Brazilian side sees throat from the base. Make your choice.

Other than the throat, there are a number of other falls, in fact more than 200 of them: the largest being San Martin, Adam and Eva. One simply needs to follow the well-managed and signed Sendero Macuco boardwalk trail from the Devil's Throat to reach the other falls. The spray of the water bouncing back from the river gorge often reaches the height of the fall. As a result, the area is well irrigated and explains the diverse ecosystem it nurtures.

Macuco tour

The river ride Macuco tour is another unforgettable experience in which you will be ferried directly under of the falls and take a natural shower under it. The boat ride, starting from the Macuco Pier explores both sides of the falls, especially the base of the throat and then they will put you under the power-shower of a life-time.

The shower.

There is no way you can avoid getting wet, and I mean undies wet. So make sure you bring another set of clothings for the ride and a ziplock for your camera and wallet. The bus ride to the fall actually provides a good explanation of the flora and fauna system of the Park.

Both parks

The Argentinian side definitely gives an more breathtaking view of the falls, especially the Devil's Throat. One is clearly closer to the action and the platforms are higher to have an upper view of the falls. The Brazilian side, however, is not to be missed to be frank. The platform is slightly lower, and hence the mist often forms multiple rainbows with the view. Moreover because the cliff is further away from the fall, one can get a more panoramic view of the entire cascade, rather than one by one, along the side as in the Argentinian park. Not to mention there are more nature and ecosystems to visit from the Brazilian park. The two parks are just different, neither one is superior over the other. Both are equally unmissable.

Eat and Drink

Beef steak (bifes)

Argentinian beef steak is very different from typical American steak that we are used to. Beef is traditionally barbecued unmarinated over charcoal flame and served often as part of a wider selection of grilled meat, with chimichurri as a relish. The Argentinian steak is usually prepared well-done, and most servers will give you a strange look when you mention something like 'medium-rare'. While it might be tough, the odour of charcoal does overwhelm the texture.

We had an interesting dinner in Puerto Iguazú at La Vaca Enamorada where the restauranteur is a very expressive larger-than-life character. He could not command a word of English, but we were convinced when he gestured that his food is so good that we would cry after having the dinner. We did not exactly shed a tear, but the quality is good for recommendation. The Roquefort cheese-dipped grape appetiser deserves special mention.

Stay

You can actually stay inside either Park and the hotel qualities are exceptionally good. They are plenty of good hotels outside the Park and we stayed in the town of Puerto Iguazu, which is a very shanty backward town. The town does very little justice to the grandeur of the fall itself and has little to offer. We stayed in the Panoramic Grand Hotel, which there is nothing panoramic to see, except the river downstream.

Getting There and Around

The entrance fee to the park is ARS $800. We took a full day guided tour to explore both sides of park, but I suggest at least a day more. The park is around 30 minutes drive away from the main city or the airport.