Oppa Gangnam style! - Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty 1319; Arirang, lyrical folk song in the Republic of Korea 00445; Kimjang, making and sharing kimchi in the Republic of Korea 00881
What and Why
Gangnam (Korean: 강남), made famous by the hit song Gangnam Style (강남스타일), is the current main business district of Seoul (서울) as a result of the rapid economic boom of Korea (한국, Hanguk). While the district is one of modern electronics, rapid office businesses and intense traffic, the southern bank contains one of the most important heritage of Korea, the royal tombs of the Joseon (조선) dynasty in the district of Seolleung.
This particular tomb, built in the early 15th century CE, was built for King Seongjong (조선, né 이혈, I Hyeol). These series of Joseon tombs were all similarly constructed like a huge grassy dome-shaped mound. Incredibly it actually shows a remarkable resemblance to the totally unrelated but much larger Boyne Valley Tombs (Irish: Brú na Bóinne) in Ireland (Irish: Éire) (Please visit the blog Donore (Dún Uabhair)). The tombs were built according to guidelines outlined in Chinese Confucian texts, such as the Book of Rites (Chinese: 礼记, Li Ji) and the Rites of Zhou (Chinese: 周礼, Zhou Li), following principles of geomancy.
The entire tomb area is roughly divided into three main areas: 1) the red-arrow gate (홍살문, hongsalmun) similar to the Japanese torii (Japanese: 鳥居). 2) the area between the gate and the mound, which is an area where mortals meet the spirits of the buried. The area is usually decorated with various statues of mythical creatures to ward off evil spirits and attackers; and 3) the tomb where the body is laid to rest.
Toponymy
The district Gangnam means the south of the Han (한) river.
The name of the tomb Seolleung (선릉) means the tomb of King Seongjong.
See
Seolleung (선릉)
Seolleung is the royal tomb of Seongjong who became king at the age of 13 and died when he was 38. One of this greatest accomplishment was the completion of the National Code which is systematic collection of laws, regulations, edicts and customs, especially to prevent corruption and abuse of power.
The tomb itself contains a very good museum detailing the history and the construction of the tomb.
As mentioned, it is interesting to reckon the uncanny resemblance of the shape and form of this tomb with the totally unrelated and blogged Boyne Valley Tombs, although this size is much smaller.
Gangnam (강남)
The entire area of Gangnam, is the commercial heart of Seoul and is the most posh of all areas of Korea. Most of the international companies place their headquarters around the area and has elevated the standard and cost of living in the area. The world's largest underground shopping mall, Starfield COEX is located in Gangnam.
The area is also known as the education hub of the city.
Buy and Do
Arirang (아리랑)
During this academic visit, as usual there was the regular cultural performance during which we were given the rendition of Arirang (아리랑). Arirang is the traditional cultural folk song of Korea and is developed collectively for over six centuries and is recognised world-wide. The song is exceedingly simple, with only four stanzas and one main chorus, although there are many variations, but mostly it is sung in a slow and melancholic tune. The current version is adopted sometime in the 1950s CE and now the song is performed in almost every important Korean festivals and events and serves as another cultural identity for both North and South Korea, together with kimchi.
Incredibly the word Arirang bears no specific meaning in Korean and linguists still debate the exact meaning and origin of the word. Also of note that Arirang is the only cultural heritage that is inscribed twice in the UNESCO register, by North and South Korea respectively and separately, and the song is sung in both sides of the border, symbolising the cultural harmony across a divided peninsula.
Eat and Drink
Guk (국)
The Korean staple is guk (국), which is soup. Against popular belief, Korean do not barbecue as much but they consume soup is in everyday's meal, which usually is served with rice.
One of the soups that deserves discussion is budaejjigae (부대찌개) or literally 'army-troop soup'. This is Korean answer to a stew and it does comes with history. During the Korean war (한국 전쟁, Hangug jeonjaeng), the American and South Korean troops were fighting in freezing conditions against the communists and the Korean troops frequently had to rely on the help of the Americans for survival, fighting and food.
In camps, when the South Korean camped with the Americans, they practically mixed whatever both troops possessed together to make a big hot stew to counter the cold weather. Americans brought their usual junk: spam, ham, cheese, sausages, pasta, macaroni, you name it and the Koreans their kimchi (김치), chilli powder, cabbages, radish and so on. They mixed the two together and this dish served both troops during the Korean war and so this eclectic stew became what is now known as the 'army-troop soup', which is effectively a stew of hot American-Korean junk.
This soup is served ubiquitously, especially in this franchise called Nolboo (놀부), which is now spoken by Psy (싸이, né 박재상, Park Jae-sang), the worldwide sensation who brought us Gangnam Style. The soup is stewed right in front and the vapour and heat steams right onto your face. The soup is generally milder (Americanised) than other Korean soups and is palatable for everyone.
Stay
During this trip I stayed in the Seoul National University (서울대학교, Seoul Daehakgyo), which is a very comfortable and convenient area for my academic work.
Getting There and Around
Gangnam is now the main central business district of Seoul and is well connected through metro. There is a metro station in almost every block of Seoul, especially around the city centre. The tomb is located right next to the metro station.
UNESCO Inscriptions
The Royal Tombs of the Joseon Dynasty form a collection of 40 tombs scattered over 18 locations. Built over five centuries, from 1408 to 1966, the tombs honoured the memory of ancestors, showed respect for their achievements, asserted royal authority, protected ancestral spirits from evil and provided protection from vandalism. Spots of outstanding natural beauty were chosen for the tombs which typically have their back protected by a hill as they face south toward water and, ideally, layers of mountain ridges in the distance. Alongside the burial area, the royal tombs feature a ceremonial area and an entrance. In addition to the burial mounds, associated buildings that are an integral part of the tombs include a T-shaped wooden shrine, a shed for stele, a royal kitchen and a guards’ house, a red-spiked gate and the tomb keeper’s house. The grounds are adorned on the outside with a range of stone objects including figures of people and animals. The Joseon Tombs completes the 5,000 year history of royal tombs architecture in the Korean peninsula.
Arirang is a popular form of Korean folk song and the outcome of collective contributions made by ordinary Koreans throughout generations. Essentially a simple song, it consists of the refrain ‘Arirang, arirang, arariyo’ and two simple lines, which differ from region to region. While dealing with diverse universal themes, the simple musical and literary composition invites improvisation, imitation and singing in unison, encouraging its acceptance by different musical genres. Experts estimate the total number of folk songs carrying the title ‘Arirang’ at some 3,600 variations belonging to about sixty versions. A great virtue of Arirang is its respect for human creativity, freedom of expression and empathy. Everyone can create new lyrics, adding to the song’s regional, historical and genre variations, and cultural diversity. Arirang is universally sung and enjoyed by the Korean nation. At the same time, an array of practitioners of regional versions, including local communities, private groups and individuals, actively lead efforts for its popularization and transmission, highlighting the general and local characteristics of individual versions. Arirang is also a popular subject and motif in diverse arts and media, including cinema, musicals, drama, dance and literature. It is an evocative hymn with the power to enhance communication and unity among the Korean people, whether at home or abroad.
Kimchi is the Korean name for preserved vegetables seasoned with spices and fermented seafood. It forms an essential part of Korean meals, transcending class and regional differences. The collective practice of Kimjang reaffirms Korean identity and is an excellent opportunity for strengthening family cooperation. Kimjang is also an important reminder for many Koreans that human communities need to live in harmony with nature. Preparation follows a yearly cycle. In spring, households procure shrimp, anchovy and other seafood for salting and fermenting. In summer, they buy sea salt for the brine. In late summer, red chilli peppers are dried and ground into powder. Late autumn is Kimjang season, when communities collectively make and share large quantities of kimchi to ensure that every household has enough to sustain it through the long, harsh winter. Housewives monitor weather forecasts to determine the most favourable date and temperature for preparing kimchi. Innovative skills and creative ideas are shared and accumulated during the custom of exchanging kimchi among households. There are regional differences, and the specific methods and ingredients used in Kimjang are considered an important family heritage, typically transmitted from a mother-in-law to her newly married daughter-in-law.
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