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Writer's pictureMaximus Nostramabus

Shaoguan (韶关)

Updated: Apr 21, 2022

Incredible reddish landforms - China Danxia 1335; Chinese Zhusuan, knowledge and practices of mathematical calculation through the abacus 00853

Penis Rock
What and Why

The Danxia (Chinese: 丹霞) area is a geological park formed from multi-layered red sedimentary reddish sandstone which has been eroded over 100 million years by fluvial depositions into a series of spectacular outcrops surrounded by unusual cliffs and rock formations known as Danxia landform. The rise of these outcrops are rising at a rate of approximately 1 m per 10,000 years and continues to rise due to hydrogeological movements.

The colour of the landscape coupled with sunrise or sunset forms an incredible portrait of nature. There are a number of temples located on the mountains and many scenic walks can be undertaken.

Toponymy

The name of the city of Shaoguan (韶关) translates to the gate of perfection in Chinese, and it came during the 6th century CE; while Danxia means reddish haze, denoting the colour of the landscape.

See

The park is roughly divided in three areas: the Yangyuanshan (阳元山) area in east bank closer to the park entrance; the Zhanglaoshan (长老山) area in the west bank; and the Xianglonghu (翔龙湖) area deeper into the river gorge, north of the Zhanglaoshan. Following the map, we did Yangyuanshan on Day 1, Zhanglaoshan on Day 2 and Xianglonghu on Day 3.

Map of Danxiashan (from internet)

Yangyuanshan (阳元山)

Main entrance to the park

From the main entrance the first and the main spot of visit is definitely the Yangyuanshan (阳元山, male mountain), which is really self-explanatory from the main picture above. There are a number of 'platforms' around the park area, where one can lie down and have your friends take a picture of yourself with the enhanced phallus.

Yangyuanshan

The slope of this part of the mountain is fairly gentle and is a very easy hike, in spite of the height.

Ximeizhai (细美寨)

Ximeizhai

Once you cleared the Yangyuanshan (阳元山, male mountain) and prove your mandom, you can immediately look up and see the next incredible feat you need to venture, the Ximeizhai (细美寨), meaning little beautiful cottage. Folklore says that it was built to avoid frequent banditries around the area. You have to climb a flight of extremely steep staircase, but the reward is an exceptional viewpoint, especially for sunrise and sunset photography.

Looking down for Ximeizhai

Shaoyinting (韶音亭)

On Day 2 morning, we explored the Zhanglaofeng (长老峰), the elder's peak area, we took the cable car ride all the way to the top to reach Shaoyinting (韶音亭, altar of perfect sound).

Shaoyinting

One can see a fantastic view of Danxia landscape near this peak, especially those inaccessible cliffs.

View from Shaoyinting

Nearby there is a huge mossy turtle looking rock called Duzhan'aotou (独占鳌头). In Chinese custom, the turtle head represents being the leader, especially in the academic area.

Duzhanaotou

Zhanglaofeng (长老峰)

One can continue from Duzhan'aotou and hike along some very funny looking rocks and jaw-dropping trails to reach the main peak Zhanglaofeng. The main vista is the Guanriting (观日亭), the sunrise watching pavilion.

Guanriting

Clearly one has to enjoy the view from the peak.

View from Guanriting

Other rock features.

Another view for Guanriting

More rocks from afar.

Rocks and cliffs

Yinyuanshi (阴元石)

Since the most prominent landmark of Danxia is the male stone, almost inevitably one will wonder if there is a female stone, and one will not disappoint to find the Yinyuanshi (阴元石) near the peak.

Yinyuanshi

Tongtiandong (通天洞)

From there one has to walk around the entire mountain cliff round and round and pass through some extremely precarious but safe trails to get back to ground-level. One of these trails is the Tongtiandong (通天洞, the cave that sees through the sky). It took us more than an hour just walking down the mountain.

Tongtiandong

Walking near Tongtiandong.

Cliffs near Tongtiandong

Some trails along the way. You can probably observe the gradient of the steep slope. Note that we have already invented the Covid-type leg-shake a few years ago.

Trails near Tongtiandong

Xianglonghu (翔龙湖)

The following day we took a leisure and scenic boat ride along the Xianglonghu (翔龙湖), meaning flying dragon lake gorge. It is a great way to enjoy and appreciate the reddish landscape under very peaceful, and non-tiring condition.

Boat ride 1

Scenes from the boat ride. Many of the landmarks seen are very inaccessible, at least not for non-professional climbers.

Near the main ferry pier

Other scenes. By the way the explanations are fairly professional, but naturally Chinese only.

Dragon horn

More boat ride pictures.

Boat ride
Buy and Do

There are loads of local commodities on sale at the various shops near the ground-level. The most important source of income for local villagers is local tea oil. One can use it for cooking and cosmetic purposes.

There are some very exotic herbs and commodities available. We found them selling bags of dried ants for medicinal purpose. Gross!

Dried ants

In this particular Chinese medicine shop, I found my long lost mathematics toy, the abacus (算盘, suanpan). For some unknown reason, it is still very common to find the abacus in Chinese apothecaries or pharmacies.

I would not say I am a prolific user of the abacus but I really do know how to use it. With the abacus I actually know, albeit not very quickly, how to do more complicated calculations like multiplication and square root. The practice of using the Chinese abacus as for calculations is known as zhusuan (珠算) and is a tool used since the 2nd century CE. Zhusuan is one of those rare ICHs that I really practise myself (and not only watching) and has been inscribed as an ICH.

Abacus
Eat and Drink

Many Chinese village resorts often claim themselves to provide farm-type cuisine (农家乐, nongjiale). Around the area, they are aplenty, but as what Wikivoyage has indicated: 'Wherever you decide to eat, come with low expectations. These restaurants aren't depending on repeat customers, so the quality of the food probably won't be great.'.

Local restaurants in Danxia
Stay

There are plenty of affordable but good quality tourist inns just outside the park entrance. Ours was Danxia Impression Hotel (丹霞印象连锁客栈, Danxia Yinxiang liansuo kezhan). Very good value and one minute walk from the entrance. Against common belief, we do recommend staying outside the park instead of inside, as there is absolutely nothing inside the park after dusk, including shuttle bus. The walk from the hotels inside to the main entrance is around 5 km in pitch-darkness before you reach any form of civilisation.

Danxia Impression Hotel
Getting There and Around

You can get almost anywhere in China via the high-speed train and from the station, a very short taxi-ride will take you to the park. Inside the park, there are shuttle buses scattered sporadically around the main park areas. These buses are very irregular and it is advisable to get out of the mountains before it gets dark. The entrance fee to the park is CNY 200¥ for a week's ticket. I recommend spending at least three days inside the park.

UNESCO Inscriptions
UNESCO sign
China Danxia is the name given in China to landscapes developed on continental red terrigenous sedimentary beds influenced by endogenous forces (including uplift) and exogenous forces (including weathering and erosion). The inscribed site comprises six areas found in the sub-tropical zone of south-west China. They are characterized by spectacular red cliffs and a range of erosional landforms, including dramatic natural pillars, towers, ravines, valleys and waterfalls. These rugged landscapes have helped to conserve sub-tropical broad-leaved evergreen forests, and host many species of flora and fauna, about 400 of which are considered rare or threatened.
Chinese Zhusuan is a time-honoured traditional method of performing mathematical calculations with an abacus. Practitioners can perform addition, subtraction, multiplication, division, exponential multiplication, root and more complicated equations by moving beads along the abacus rods according to defined formulas. Chinese Zhusuan has played a vital role in giving an impetus to mathematical studies, promoting algorithmic practices and fostering intelligence. Zhusuan oral formulas have easy-to-learn rhymes that represent specific calculation rules and summarize the arithmetic operations. Beginners can make quick calculations after some fairly basic training, while proficient practitioners develop an agile mind. Zhusuan is widely used in Chinese life and is an important symbol of traditional Chinese culture, providing a strong sense of cultural identity. It has been handed down through generations by traditional methods of oral teaching and self-learning. Training in abacus-based mental arithmetic is thought to improve a child’s attention span, memory and mental capability. Today, it contributes to the advancement of calculating techniques, cognitive schemas, educational psychology and intellectual development. It also has a far-reaching influence in various fields of cultural creativity, including folk customs, language, literature, sculpture and architecture.
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