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Writer's pictureMaximus Nostramabus

Steingaden

Updated: Apr 21, 2022

Everything was done throughout the church to make the supernatural visible - Pilgrimage Church of Wies 271; Craft techniques and customary practices of cathedral workshops, or Bauhütten, in Europe, know-how, transmission, development of knowledge and innovation 01558

Pilgrimage Church of Wies
What and Why
Wieskirche

The old adage of 'Do not judge a book by its cover.' definitely applies to this extraordinary little church. Situated in the town of Steingaden, the Pilgrimage Church of Wies (German: Wieskirche) is a very modest looking church sitting in a meadow that does not really appeal anyone from the outside. Designed in the mid-18th century CE by Johann and Dominikus Zimmermann, the oval rococo church is just insanely beautiful and expressive in the inside, with extremely elaborate frescoes, stucco works and church sculptures that are considered masterpiece in its own right. As described by the Zimmermann's brothers, 'Everything was done throughout the church to make the supernatural visible. Sculpture and murals combined to unleash the divine in visible form.'. The interior is pictured above. It is so stunning that it keeps every visitors in awe.

Toponymy

Wies comes from the old Old German word wisa, meaning meadow. Steingaden's direct translation is stone garden.

See

Church of Wies (Wieskirche)

Full nave

The church's history is quite touching: it all began with a dilapidated wooden figure statue of the Scourged Saviour in Steingaden Abbey, which at that time was privately owned by a woman farmer. The statue was actually discarded because the realistic figure of a bleeding Jesus (Hebrew: ישוע‎, Yeshua) was not very welcomed by the then church-goers. During her daily prayers, she found drops in the eyes of the statue, which she believed to be tears. News of this statue travelled quickly, and the first pilgrimages here led to the construction of a small chapel soon afterwards. Clearly as a scientific person, I would rather say those were mere condensation or dew, as reported in various other weeping statues. Just ten years later, the statue of the Scourged Saviour was moved from the field chapel to the present Wies Church, which was still being built at the time.

Many who have prayed in front of the statue of Jesus on the altar (right there at the centre) have claimed that people have been miraculously cured of their diseases, which has made this church even more of a pilgrimage site.

Organ at the back

The main feature remains the altarpiece as well as the fresco on the domed ceiling with its 3D trompe-l’œil style. It was described by the famous author Peter Dörfler that Wies Church is 'a bit of heaven in this suffering world'. Here is a panoramic view of the church.

Linderhof

Near the Wies Church there a re a number of important palaces that definitely deserves a visit. Many of these are residences of former kings of Europe. The one that is closest to Wies Church is definitely Lindehof, which was rebuilt by King Ludwig II (Ludwig Wittelsbach) during the mid 19th cenutry CE. His father King Maximilian II (né Maximilian Wittelsbach) bought the sit when Ludwig was young and when he inherited he began enlarging the building. The building was designed in the style of the second rococo-period, modelling it closely, albeit in a much smaller site, Versailles. The name Linderhof comes from a mighty weeping-willow (Linde), which is in the park for centuries.

Linderhof

Neuschwanstein Castle (Schloss Neuschwanstein)

Neuschwanstein Castle (from internet)

Just around 20 minute drive along the Romantic Road (Romantische Straße), stands one of the most iconic castles in the world in Neuschwantstein Castle (Schloss Neuschwanstein). The castle, translated as the new swan rock and as a global symbol of the era of Romanticism, has inspired countless other castles in the real world and more importantly in the cartoon world, in particular Disney's Cinderella Castle.

Neuschwanstein from the hill bottom

Surprisingly this is not an old castle at all! The fairy-tale looking castle is built by the eccentric King Ludwig II in the late 19th century CE who was obsessed about operas and theatres. In particular he was a huge fan and devoted patron of the musician Richard Wagner and the castle was inspired by the swan knights in Wagner's operas, and hence all the references to swans in the castle. The castle as a result has more performance areas and offers very little defence. Unfortunately both Ludwig and Wagner died before either of them could see the completed castle.

Another view

The stylistic palace architecture, while largely romantic also embraces different styles including Gothic, Byzantine and some Oriental elements.

Courtyard

It is very interesting to know that the castle is only named as Neuschwanstein after Ludwig's death. Ludwig actually called this palace New Hohenschwangau Castle, because the site was sitting on the ruins of the two Hohenschwangau Castles. More about this in a minute. Photography not allowed inside.

Hohenschwangau Castle (Schloss Hohenschwangau)

Hohenschwangau Castle

The skyline of the area is actually dominated by two castles, clearly the Neuschwanstein and also the neo-Gothic Hohenschwangau Castle (Schloss Hohenschwangau). This fortified castle has been sitting in the site since the mid-16th century CE during the Middle Ages, although the present form is reconstructed in the early 19th century CE. The site is on the ruins of an older castle named, believe it or not, Schwangau Castle. It was actually Ludwig's childhood residence.

This creates a very confusing result: Hohenschwangau and Schwanstein have effectively swapped names! Hohenschwangau Castle replaced the ruins of the old Schwangau Castle, and Neuschwanstein Castle replaced the ruins of the two Hohenschwangau Castles.

Eat and Drink

Pork knuckle (Schweinshaxe)

Just outside the church, there is a small guesthouse Moser, and in spite of the very humble look, its pork steak (Schwenkbraten) and pork knuckle (Schweinshaxe) is absolutely top-notched. Just like the church it accompanies.

Schweiger
Getting There and Around

Admission to Schloss Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau is EUR 13€. Steingaden is very remote but it is served by bus. Neuschwanstein, being such a popular tourist spot is not a worry. The whole place should be completable in one day.

UNESCO Inscriptions
UNESCO sign
Miraculously preserved in the beautiful setting of an Alpine valley, the Church of Wies (1745–54), the work of architect Dominikus Zimmermann, is a masterpiece of Bavarian Rococo – exuberant, colourful and joyful.
The workshop organization, or Bauhüttenwesen, appeared in the Middle Ages on the construction sites of European cathedrals. Now, as then, these workshops are home to various trades working in close collaboration. The term Bauhüttenwesen in German refers both to the organization of a workshop network dealing with the construction or restoration of a building and to the workshop itself, as a place of work. Since the end of the Middle Ages, these workshops have formed a supra-regional network extending beyond national borders. The workshops safeguard the traditional customs and rituals of their professions, as well as a wealth of knowledge transmitted across the generations, both orally and in writing. Faced with the progressive shortage of technical skills and in an age of increasing mechanization and cost optimization, the workshops created or re-established in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries have become institutions that preserve, transmit and develop traditional techniques and know-how. Their commitment to safeguarding and promoting living heritage, through targeted awareness raising, information and communication measures and close cooperation with shareholders in the field of politics, the church, monument conservation, business and research, can be considered as an example to be adapted and implemented in other contexts worldwide. Through their organization and training system for on-site practice, the workshops could be considered as a model for all types of buildings that need to be built and maintained.
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