A small Russian former capital with more churches than anyone else - White Monuments of Vladimir and Suzdal 633
What and Why
Just 25 km north of Vladimir (Russian: Владимир) (see our blogged Vladimir (Владимир) sits one small town of with a glory history Suzdal (Суздаль). The historic town dates back to the late 10th century CE and it became a principality in Rostov-Suzdal (Ростов-Суздаль) in the early 12th century CE. Later in the mid-12th century this principality was merged with Vladimir to form Vladimir-Suzdal (Владимирско-Су́здальская, Vladimirsko-Suzdal'skaya) and prospered as one of the main trading towns as the land was very fertile. Suzdal remained strong until and only started its decline after it was annexed by Moscow (Москва, Moskva) (see our blogged Moscow (Москва) - Red Square) in the late 14th century CE.
In spite of her political decline, the town rose in prominence as a religious centre with incredible development projects funded by Vasily III Rurikovich (Василий III Рюриковичи, Vasiliy II Rurikovichi), Ivan IV Rurickovich (Иван IV Рюриковичи, Ivan IV Rurikovchi) and many wealthy people during the 16th century CE. At one point there were 40 churches for the city with barely a thousand residents! Similar to Vladimir, the churches were built using local limestones and hence they were characterised by a white facade. Suzdal remained important as both a religious and agricultural centre until the 19th century CE.
The construction of the Trans-Siberian Railway (Транссибирская Магистраль, Transsibirskaya Magistral') changed the dynamics of the city when the local government and merchants failed to convince the government to allow the railway to pass through Suzdal. As a result the city became dormant economically and its by-product is that the city remains what it was hundred years ago and its appearance has largely unchanged! It is sometimes called the most Russian city because of its good preservation. Today Suzdal has become one of the beautiful Russian cities populated with wooden buildings, whitewashed churches, colourful cupolas and traditional decorative carvings.
Toponymy
Suzdal comes from the Russian word 'создавать (sozdavat)' meaning 'to create or build'.
See
Suzdal Kremlin (Суздальский Кремль)
The red Suzdal Kremlin (Суздальский Кремль, Suzdal'skiy Kreml') is the oldest part of the Suzdal and dates back to the 10th century CE when the city is founded. Similar to other Russian kremlins (кремль, kreml'), it was the citadel of the city that envelops all the the important religious and administrative buildings of the city. Two of them: the Cathedral of the Nativity Theotokos (Рождественский Собор, Rozhdestvenskiy Sobor) and the Monastery of Saint Euthymius (Спасо-Евфимиев Монастырь, Spaso-Yevfimiyev Monastyr') are the reasons why Suzdal is enlisted as a UNESCO WHS.
Cathedral of the Nativity Theotokos (Рождественский Собор)
It is quite remarkable that the Cathedral of the Nativity Theotokos is regularly selected in various guidebooks to represent Russia (Россия, Rossiya) as its cover, so one can commensurate how important this church is, especially to the Russian culture. According to history, an Orthodox church started at the site as early as 8th century CE. A formal cathedral was constructed in the late 11th century CE during the reign of Vladimir II Monomakh (Old Slavic: Володимѣръ Мономахъ, Volodiměrŭ Monomakhŭ) in the late 11th century. As usual the church suffered all sorts of damages and fires and was re-constructed a number of times. The iconic blue onion domes were installed in the 13th century CE to replace the helmet-shaped heads. The current church was largely built during the 16th century CE and is now recognised as an important representation of mediaeval Russian architecture and culture.
Theotokos (Greek: Θεοτόκος) is the title of Mary (Aramaic: מרים, Maryam) in Orthodox Christianity, meaning 'God-bearer'.
The interior of the church is spacious and light, in accordance with the then Baroque and Russian architecture style during the 17th century CE. The iconostasis of the church is one of the most impressive of all in Russian churches.
Another important artefact inside the church is a large bowl designed for the consecration of water and created in the 19th century CE. The bowl includes a large samovar (самовар) to keep the water warm to supply consecrated water to the parishioners.
Monastery of Saint Euthymius (Спасо-Евфимиев Монастырь)
The Monastery of Saint Euthymius was built in the mid-14th century CE by Saint Euthymius (Евфимий, Evfimiy) and is actually the largest church in Suzdal. Originally the church served as a fortress from foreign attacks when Suzdal was a commercial centre. During its history, the monastery served as a prison until the 1970s CE.
The current monastery building was reconstructed over the original wooden building during the early 16th century CE. The cathedral, picture above, is the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Saviour (Спасо-Преображенский Собор, Spaso-Preobrazhenskiy Sobor) renowned for it green domes, and was built according to the style prevalent during the era of Vladimir-Suzdal and sits next to the monastery.
Museum of Wooden Architecture (Музей Деревянного Зодчества)
The Museum of Wooden Architecture (Музей Деревянного Зодчества, Muzey Derevyanskogo Zodchestva) is a collection of around 20 old wooden buildings around the area and were re-assembled in Suzdal to illustrate how peasants lived during the 17th century CE. One of the most important buildings was the Wooden Church of Saint Nicholas (Деревянная Никольская Церковь, Derevyannaya Nikol'skaya Tserkov'). This church was built in the mid-18th century CE and was moved and rebuilt here piece by piece. These churches did remind me of the stave churches as blogged in Flåm.
One interesting note about these churches, the Russians constructed both summer churches and winter churches with insulations to suit the temperature fluctuations between seasons. Other than churches, the museum includes other buildings like homes, workplaces and barns.
Eat and Drink
Medovukha (Медову́ха)
Medovukha (Медову́ха) is a popular fermented honey-based cider with its history going all the way to the Middle Ages. It is sold everywhere along the streets.
Getting There and Around
We continued our bus journey from Vladimir which is literally half-an-hour away. Within the kremlin, everywhere is walking distance. The entrance fees to the Suzdal Kremlin and the Museum of Wooden Architecture is RUB 250₽ and 400₽ respectively.
Suzdal is a good and popular day trip away from Moscow.
UNESCO Inscription
These two artistic centres in central Russia hold an important place in the country's architectural history. There are a number of magnificent 12th- and 13th-century public and religious buildings, above all the masterpieces of the Collegiate Church of St Demetrios and the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin.
References
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