World most livable, cultural and musical society Part II - Palace and Gardens of Schönbrunn 786, Historic Centre of Vienna 1033; Classical horsemanship and the High School of the Spanish Riding School Vienna 01106
What and Why
If you roughly divide the Inner City (German: Innere Stadt) of Vienna (Wien) into East and West using the Herrengasse (translated as Street of the Lords) as a rough divide, the eastern part contains the more cultural and religious monuments while the western part of the city contains all the historical and political monuments and buildings reflecting its imperial past. The city was the capital of the Habsburg Empire (Habsburgermonarchie) and thus exerts profound influence in the history and civilisation of the entire Western Europe.
By the way, the city has been placed under UNESCO WHS in danger as there are plans to build more skyscrapers inside the city. Vienna has always been a huge city, but still it does not escape from urban spawn. UNESCO is concerned about the high-rise development in Vienna as it can dramatically influence the visual integrity of the city, especially its Baroque architectures and parks.
Toponymy
Schönbrunn means a beautiful stream in German, as the site is built on an artesian well.
See
Schönbrunn Palace (Schloß Schönbrunn)
Always ranked as one of the top ten palaces in the world, Schönbrunn Palace (Schloß Schönbrunn) was built as the main summer residence of the Habsburg rulers. The Rococo palace is one of the most important and beautiful cultural, and historic monuments in the country and possibly the world. The palace and garden has undergone almost continuous renovation and addition throughout its history, reflecting the changing tastes, interests, and aspirations of successive Habsburg monarchs.
While the earliest part of the palace started in the mid-16th century CE by the Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian II (né Maximilian von Habsburg), the entire complex was formally completed in the mid-18th century CE after multiple additions.
Rococo decorative schemes dominate the staterooms inside the palace. As usual no photography allowed inside the palace. There are more than 1,400 rooms inside the palace, and it would easily take you a life-time if you walk through everyone of them. The star sight inside the palace is the extremely luxurious Great Gallery (Groß Galerie).
Franz Joseph (Franz Josef I, né Franz von Habsburg-Lorraine), the longest-reigning emperor of Austria, was born at Schönbrunn and his entire life in the palace. He died there in 1916 CE, and almost immediately marked the downfall of the Habsburg monarchy in 1918 CE. The palace was taken by the country and became a museum.
If the palace opens your eyes, the garden opens your mouth. The garden easily compares itself with that high standard of Versailles and Caserta. The massive garden complex includes many attractions: the Gloriette, the Tiergarten, an orangerie, a palm house and even a tiny zoo.
Overlooking the garden at a 60-m high is the impressive Gloriette which was designed to glorify Habsburg power and a war that would be carried out of 'necessity' leading to peace. Therefore the pavilion wass built with recycled left from the near-demolition nearby palaces.
The Gloriette.
The Palmhouse (Palmenhaus Schönbrunn) is a greenhouse that contains all sorts of exotic plants.
Michaelerplatz
The entrance to the extremely impressive Hofburg, named after the opposite Saint Michael's church. Recent excavations have uncovered remains of a Roman encampment and medi various mediaeval foundations, right in the middle of the street.
Hofburg
The vast Hofburg complex contains the former imperial residence of the Habsburg dynasty and now serves as the official residence and workplace of the President of Austria. It contains the national library, various government offices, the Burgtheater and the Spanish Riding School (Spanische Hofreitschule). The complex was a result of six-centuries of development when every ruler was too anxious to leave an extra architectural footprint in the area. One can easily spend a day or two just exploring this complex.
The Neue Burg is the entrance to the national library and museums.
There is a very decorated gate called the Burgtor to mark the exit of the area.
Spanish Riding School (Spanische Hofreitschule)
The origins of the Spanish Riding School, pictured above, are obscure but it is believe that it was founded in the mid-16th century CE to perpetuate equestrian dressage and horsemanship. It is one of the earliest equestrian schools in the world and is possibly the most prestigious riding academies in the world.
All horses belong to the Slovene Lipizzaner (Slovene: Lipicanec) breed, which the base-breed ironically came mostly from Spain as a result of Habsburg rule and hence the name. There is now a daily 80-min dressage show in the building known as the Winter Riding School (Winterreitschule).
Classical horsemanship at the school perpetuate the traditional art and practice of breeding, keeping, training and riding horses during the time of Habsburg monarchy. The breed is now exclusive with the Spanish Riding School and is trained specially for classical dressage. The School’s various social practices and culturally-shaped rituals and ceremonies are based on the long-lasting relationship between breeders, grooms, riders and horses. The tradition also gives communities within the School a strong sense of identity and ensures the safeguarding of techniques and craftsmanship in many fields related to horse husbandry. The ritual practices are so engrained into the School and the values are so symbolic of Vienna that this is enlisted as a UNESCO ICH.
Burgtheater
The Burgtheater, meaning the castle theatre, is easily one of the most prestigious stage in the world, especially in the German-speaking world. So well-know that its theater company has created a traditional style and speech typical of Burgtheater performances. It was built in the mid-18th century CE, when Empress Maria Theresa (Maria Theresia, née Maria von Habsburg) wanted a theatre next to her palace.
Museum of History of Art (Kunsthistorisches Museum)
Another museum inherited from the Habsburg dynasty, the Museum of History of Art (Kunsthistorisches Museum) is one of the most important art museums in the world. By the way opposite to it is the almost mirror image of the building which is the Museum of Natural History (Museum Naturhistorisches).
Parliament
The immense Parliament building was designed with a neo-classical style in the late 19th century CE.
New Town Hall (Neues Rathaus)
Probably looking more impressive than the Parliament, because it stands very tall with a central tower, the New Town Hall (Neue Rathaus) is the seat of Vienna.
Naschmarkt
The Naschmarkt is Vienna liveliest, and costliest, market, with a mix of food and flea market.
Eat and Drink
Viennese cuisine (Wiener Küche)
Other than the misnomer Wiener, there are really three classical Viennese dishes of must-try:
Schnitzel - A thin deep-fried breaded veal cutlet, the word means slice,
Tafelspitz - boiled beef in broth, literally meaning the tip of the table,
Apfelstrudel - the famous apple pastry that really comes from Vienna, the word strudel means a whirlpool, denoting the mix.
We had all of them at Hinterholz. By the way Viennese waiters tend to leave their patrons alone and they do not want to be intrusive.
Coffee house (Kaffeehaus)
The other thing that was unknown to me was Viennese coffee house (Wiener Kaffeehaus, and not Starbucks). Apparently Vienna takes its coffee culture very seriously and it is enlisted in their own cultural heritage. Most of the coffeehouses do not serve takeaway, as they wrote in their heritage statement, 'Coffeehouse is where time and space are consumed, but only the coffee is found on the bill (In dem Zeit und Raum konsumiert werden, aber nur der Kaffee auf der Rechnung steht)'. Many coffeehouses are housed in a very classical setting where you can enjoy the culture, at your own pace. The local specialty coffee is called the Einspänner (meaning single). It is a strong black coffee served in a glass topped with whipped cream, served either hot or cold.
Getting There and Around
Easy to get around with the metro in Vienna. The entrance fee to Schönbrunn is EUR 32.50€. Vienna deserves another week of thorough visit.
UNESCO Inscription
From the 18th century to 1918, Schönbrunn was the residence of the Habsburg emperors. It was designed by the architects Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach and Nicolaus Pacassi and is full of outstanding examples of decorative art. Together with its gardens, the site of the world’s first zoo in 1752, it is a remarkable Baroque ensemble and a perfect example of Gesamtkunstwerk.
Vienna developed from early Celtic and Roman settlements into a Medieval and Baroque city, the capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It played an essential role as a leading European music centre, from the great age of Viennese Classicism through the early part of the 20th century. The historic centre of Vienna is rich in architectural ensembles, including Baroque castles and gardens, as well as the late-19th-century Ringstrasse lined with grand buildings, monuments and parks.
References
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