Vigan

Updated: Apr 20, 2022

Spanish colonial city with an old-world charm - Historic City of Vigan 502

What and Why

Vigan is one of the few Spanish colonial towns left in the Philippines whose old structures have mostly remained intact, and it is well known for its sett and cobblestone pavements, derived from the Spanish Philippines colonial era which fuses native Philippine and oriental building designs and constructions. In particular the stone colonial houses (Tagalog : bahay na bato) are abundant in the city and is kind of an icon of the city. While the city is largely planned by the Spanish, the residents here were mostly Chinese and hence if you go deeper, you would see the fusion.

Vigan was officially recognised as one of the New7Wonders Cities in 2015 CE, although I know this is more a marketing campaign than something serious.

Toponymy

The area of Vigan was once a settlement of traders from the Chinese province of Fujian (Chinese: 福建). At the time of Spanish colonisation, the Chinese settlers, whose language was Minnan, referred to the area as Bee Gan (Minnan Chinese: 美岸, Mei'an), meaning beautiful shore. In the Minnan dialect, the enunciation difference of V and B is fairly vague and hence the word.

Another explanation came from the biga plant, also known as the giant taro, which once grew abundantly along the banks of the Mestizo River.

See

Vigan used to be an island, banked by the Mestizo River, as recently as 50 years ago. Due to the silting of the river, the city is no longer an island, but now fully attached to the mainland.

Calle Crisologo

The main thoroughfare Calle Crisologo, commemorating the Filipino patriarch politician, Floro Crisologo, is also the main reason why Vigan got inscribed as a UNESCO WHS. The main street is lined with Spanish colonial ancestral houses, with ancient tile roofs, massive hardwood floors, balusters, oozing Spanish, Chinese and local architectural styles and flairs along the cobblestone streets. Clearly nowadays this is also the main tourist landmark and trap.

One immediate notices that the city is quite well-planned and gridded, as most of the Spanish colonial towns. One immediately recalls the blog on Córdoba, where there is a close resemblance in the urban structure. Apparently this is listed under the Law of the Indies (Spanish: Leyes de las Indias), which are the entire body of laws issued by the Spanish Crown for the American and the Philippine on the governance of its empire.

One of the features around the heritage town is the extensive public of use of horse-cart (kalesa) as a mode of urban transport. Clearly tourists use this more often nowadays. It seems that the roads are closed to traffic.

Crisologo Museum

A modest, but surprisingly impressive museum for Floro Crisologo. It gives a good idea not only about the life of Crisologo, but also the lives of Filipinos during the time.

Plaza Salcedo

A favourite hangout for the locals, the plaza is also known as the dancing fountain for this Korean installation. It is described by Wikivoyage that the musical fountain rivals that of Bellagio of Las Vegas. I believe this is too much of a hyperbole.

Plaza Burgos

Another favourite hangouts for the local dedicated to the memory of Father José Burgos y García. Lots of local snacks on sale in the plaza.

Saint Paul's Metropolitan Cathedral

Right in front of Plaza Burgos stands Saint Paul Metropolitan Church (Katedral ng Vigan) devoted to Saint Paul (Latin: Paulus). The church is the typical Baroque triangular church, called Earthquake Baroque, as it was built to counter earthquakes in the Philippines during the 17th to 18th century CE. It also has neo-Gothic, Romanesque and Chinese inspired embellishments.

Buy and Do

Abel

Other than the usual tourist souvenirs, Vigan is famous of its abel cloth, the word abel is the local Ilocano language for weave. Abel cloth is made of thick yarn by a wooden handloom.

Eat and Drink

Empanada

Vigan locals take their empanada seriously, and many Filipinos have told me that I should not leave the city without trying theirs. Vigan empanada’s have more vegetable fillings made from green papaya, mung bean sprouts, and shredded carrots. Its meat fillings consist of egg and Vigan longaniza (as below). Sold almost in every corner of the city. A very affordable snack or meal.

Longaniza (Longganisa)

Vigan longaniza (longganisa) is another must-try in the city. Longaniza is a dried chorizo, and its Vigan version is made with ground lean pork, ground pork fat, brown sugar wrapped in hog casings. It is so embedded in Vigan culture that there is an annual longganisa festival in the city. The shape of the sausage is like a big fat grape.

Stay

We stayed in Hotel Felicidad, a converted colonial mansion. Excellent stay, but squeaky timber floorings due to the colonial architecture. During our stay, you can imagine the noise of extensive amount of strenuous love activities next door due to the motions of the bed on the wooden floors...

Getting There and Around

Vigan is very tiny, and the city can be explored by foot within a day. Spend two or three days to enjoy the atmosphere. Vigan is around five hour drive from Manila. Although Vigan does have an airport, it is not well served.