Ancient Japanese-cedar forest and sea turtle breeding nest - Yakushima 662; Washoku, traditional dietary cultures of the Japanese, notably for the celebration of New Year 00869
What and Why
Yakushima (Japanese: 屋久島) is a round lush island off Kagoshima (鹿児島) famous for its unique temperate ancient rainforest. The island is one of the wettest in the region, and possibly the world and hence vegetations are abundant in the island. The island's main trees are Japanese cedar or sugi (杉) and these trees are there for thousands of years. The sugi that are over 1,000 years old are termed yakusugi (屋久杉) in reference to the island and is much revered, many individual tree has been given its own name. The largest, was called the jōmon sugi (縄文杉), was estimated to be 7,200 years old.
One of Hayao Miyazaki's (宮崎 駿) anime movie もののけ姫 is inspired by this island's lushness.
Toponymy
The name Yakushima comes from its old kanji (漢字) name 薬島, meaning medicine island. This was due to the variety of medicinal plants naturally occurring on the island.
See
We came to Yakushima to see the sugi and the only way to see them is to hike up the mountain inside the forest. There are many well-marked hiking trails around the island, and we chose the one which is the most accessible and famous of all, leading to Shiratani Unsuikyo (白谷雲水峡). There are enough information (and time) in the ferry that you can study the trail routes before you begin. All the hiking trails are extremely well managed.
Shiratani Unsuikyo (白谷雲水峡)
Shiratani Unsuikyo is the island most famous forest and is coined with an absolutely beautiful name, meaning a white valley and misty gorge. The usual beautiful, green, silent, mossy, primaeval forest pictures come from here. Actually those sceneries are everywhere and it is easy to produce any of those pictures.
The trail is an unarduous 3-hour hike without much sweat, and we were fortunate that we encountered a good day without rain. Yakushima rains literally everyday during the year and claims itself to be the wettest land in the world!
As mentioned, it is not that difficult to take a good mossy picture of Shiratani Unsuikyo. Taken by Iphone below. The moss is an important part of the eco-system as part of the food-chain. It also protects the tree roots to dry up and soil erosion.
One of the most famous sugi along this trail is nidaiōsugi (二代大杉), or the second-generation cedar.
The most famous sugi of the island stands along this route, the Yayoi sugi (弥生杉). Yayoi is a prehistoric period that dates back to 1000 BCE.
There are plenty of small waterfalls along the trails. Afterall the island is very wet.
Jōmon sugi (縄文杉) trail
Jōmon sugi (縄文杉) are the oldest cedars in the island, some dating back as much as 5,000 years old. The tree's name is a reference to the Jōmon period of Japanese prehistory, dating as far as 12000 BCE.
Most of the trees have clocked 1,000 years, just one as above. The trail includes a few suspension bridges.
Along this trail, there are signs that show that many of the younger sugi actually started growing on fallen timber. This is seen in a way as 'resurrecting' the dead tree.
One of the landmarks along this trail is the Wilson's stump.
After another 4 to 5-hour hike, one would reach the final destination of the Jōmon Sugi (縄文杉).
World Heritage Conservation Center and Yakusugi Museum (屋久島世界遺産センター)
The World Heritage Conservation Center and Yakusugi Museum (屋久島世界遺産センター, Yakushima seikaiisan sentā) explains the geography and biology of the entire island and is very comfortable, especially after the hikes. From many parts of the trails you can see a grand panorama of the island easily.
Hirauchi Kaichū onsen (平内海中温泉)
At the southern side of the island, there are a few natural onsens (温泉) that is in the middle of the sea, appearing only during low tides, around noon time. There are just some very basic screens to separate the sexes and the entrance fee is JPY ¥100, to be placed in a trust box. Literally a nudist paradise, but we can only take photographs very discreetly.
Ōkonotaki (大川の滝)
There are two massive waterfalls in the western part of the island. One is called Senpiro Waterfall (千尋の滝, Senpironotaki), which unless you are willing to risk a bit of climbing, you can only see from afar.
The other one is the massive 88-m Ōkonotaki (大川の滝). You can walk to the base of the waterfall and experience the roar.
This waterfall is also one of the most famous in Japan.
Turtle nests (カメの巣)
Female turtles visit Yakushima between May and August, returning to the area where they were born approximately 30 years previously. Over a period of a few months they come ashore several times to lay their eggs in clutches of between 100 to 120. Babies hatch out depending on the incubating sand temperature between 45 to 70 days later.
There are sea turtle eco-tours available during summer but they are always in high-demand and one must book early. No one is allowed to visit the turtle nest without a guide, as this will easily disturb the turtles and even damage the eggs. Unfortunately we missed this boat.
Eat and Drink
Kaisendon (海鮮丼)
In Japan I love the kaisen-don (海鮮丼), in fact one of my favourite Japanese foods, and naturally I had one set in Yakushima. Yakushima is famous for its tobio (飛び魚) and tobiko (とびこ): flying fish and its roe. Tobio does have a lot of small bones.
I had one serving of don in the highly-rated Wakadaishō (若大将). They serve the fish from their own fishing boat and their restaurant is in an izakaya (居酒屋), meaning Japanese bar, style. Excellent food, but very crowded and tight. Another part of Japanese cuisine (和食, washoku).
Stay
We stayed in Minshuku Iwakawa (民宿いわかわ), a simple homestay. Not too bad, very close to the ferry pier and has good access to everything you need. There are not that many big hotels in the island.
Getting There and Around
To get to the island, you can either fly or take a ferry from Kagoshima. The ferry ride is a 2-hour ride and costs 8,500¥. There is a regular but infrequent bus service around the island, serving most of the tourist spots and trail entrance point. However the service is not frequent, and after the hike it is not unusual you find yourself stranded in the forest for another few hours. We actually rented a car, which is very affordable. Moreover it is impossible to get lost in the island as there is only one loop of road. The drive is a very scenic and sometimes breathtaking, as below.
There is an admission fee of 300¥ to provide maintenance to the park. We stayed there for two nights and if you do hike at all the trails, you may consider staying longer.
UNESCO Inscriptions
Located in the interior of Yaku Island, at the meeting-point of the palaearctic and oriental biotic regions, Yakushima exhibits a rich flora, with some 1,900 species and subspecies, including ancient specimens of the sugi (Japanese cedar). It also contains a remnant of a warm-temperate ancient forest that is unique in this region.
Washoku is a social practice based on a set of skills, knowledge, practice and traditions related to the production, processing, preparation and consumption of food. It is associated with an essential spirit of respect for nature that is closely related to the sustainable use of natural resources. The basic knowledge and the social and cultural characteristics associated with Washoku are typically seen during New Year celebrations. The Japanese make various preparations to welcome the deities of the incoming year, pounding rice cakes and preparing special meals and beautifully decorated dishes using fresh ingredients, each of which has a symbolic meaning. These dishes are served on special tableware and shared by family members or collectively among communities. The practice favours the consumption of various natural, locally sourced ingredients such as rice, fish, vegetables and edible wild plants. The basic knowledge and skills related to Washoku, such as the proper seasoning of home cooking, are passed down in the home at shared mealtimes. Grassroots groups, schoolteachers and cooking instructors also play a role in transmitting the knowledge and skills by means of formal and non-formal education or through practice.
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