Zanzibar City (Jiji La Zanzibar)

Updated: Apr 1, 2022

Epicentre of spice and slave trade with a pinch of Portuguese, Omani and African influence - Stone Town of Zanzibar 173

What and Why

Zanzibar City (Swahili : Jiji La Zanzibar) can almost be seen as a mirror of East African colonisation history. The island's strategic location along the African coast attracted empires to fight for its possession and hence it had been colonised non-stop since the early 16th century CE: first the Portuguese, then the Omani, followed by a local sultanate and then the British; until it gained independence after the British decolonisation. As a result, the town is a city of prominent historical and artistic importance in East Africa. Its architecture, mostly dating back to the 19th century CE, reflects the diverse influences underlying the Swahili culture, with a mixture of Arab, Persian, Indian and European elements. The buildings of the Stone Town are usually built with a thick lime mortar and then plastered and lime-washed, and reflect a complex fusion of all these influences in building traditions and town planning.

More importantly, due to its important geographical location, it became the main centre for three trades: spice, ivory and notoriously slave during the 18th and 19th century CE.

Toponymy

Zanzibar means 'black coast', with the compound form coming from Arabic زنجبار (zanjibār), which is in turn came from Persian زنگبار (zangbâr), a compound of زنگ (zang), meaning black and بار (bâr) meaning coast.

The country name Tanzania was created as a clipped compound of the names of the two states that create the country: Tanganyika and Zanzibar. The name Tanganyika is derived from the words tanga (sail) and nyika (wilderness), the country name meaning sail to wilderness.

See

Zanzibar City comprises two main parts, Stone Town (Mji Mkongwe), meaning old town in Swahili, and Ng'ambo, meaning the other side in Swahili; the two areas are divided by a creek, now becoming the main thoroughfare Creek Road. The Stone Town is the main concentration of heritage around Zanzibar.

Old Dispensary (Ithnashiri Dispensary)

The Old Dispensary (Ithnashiri Dispensary) is easily the most recognised and decorated buildings of Stone Town and is now the a symbol of the multi-cultural heritage of the city and it is right in front of the ferry pier. The wooden carved balconies and stained glass decorations are of Indian influence; the main building is built with traditional Zanzibari coral rag and limestone, but covered with European neo-classical stucco adornments, a bit like the French Quarter around the world. The Old Dispensary was commissioned in the late 19th century CE by Tharia Topan, a wealthy Ismaili Indian, to celebrate Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee and use it as a charitable hospital for the poor. However the hospital was not completed after it ran out of budget. The building was completed in late 19th century CE after changing hands, and in 1900 CE the building was bought by another prominent Indian merchant, Haji Nasser Nurmohamed, who decided that the ground floor would be used as a dispensary, while the upper floors were partitioned into apartments.

Palace Museum (Jumba la kumbukumbu)

The Palace Museum (Jumba la kumbukumbu), as above, was built in late 19th century CE as a residence for the Zanzibar Sultan's family. In 1994 CE, it became a museum about the Zanzibari royal family and history. Next to it is a huge banyan tree which is considered sacred for the Buddhist and Hindu faith.

Old Fort (Ngome Kongwe)

The Old Fort (Ngome Kongwe) was built by Omani Arabs after expelling the Portuguese in 17th century CE. It had been used as a garrison, a prison, a train terminal and a barrack. Now the courtyard has been adapted to serve as a cultural centre with shops selling tourist merchandises and handicraft.

House of Wonder is currently under renovation.

Adjacent to it is the House of Wonder (Nyumba ya Wonder), usually referred to by its Arabic form Beit-al-Ajaib (بيت العجايب), is the tallest building of Zanzibar. Built in the late 19th century CE as a ceremonial palace, it was referred to the House of Wonder as it was the first building to have electricity and an elevator in Africa. Now a museum of Zanzibari history, the building is again expressive of Omani verandah and neo-classical European facade.

Forodhani Garden (Bustani za Forodhani)

The seaside park along the road with the House of Wonder, Forodhani Gardens (Bustani za Forodhani) is a popular rest area with seafood barbecue during dusk.

Pavilion in Forodhani Gardens.

Hamamni Baths (Bafu za Hamamni)

The Hamamni Bath (Bafu za Hamamni) is a hammam built for the Omani Sultan Barghash bin Said Al-Busaid‎ (Arabic: برغش بن سعيد البوسعيد‎) during the late 19th century CE and was in use until 1920s CE. The bath are Persian in nature and the building had a complex structure with several rooms, hot and cold baths, toilets, shaving areas, and a restaurant.

Christ Church (Kanisa la Kristo) and Slave Market (Soko la Watumwa)

The Anglican Christ Church (Kanisa la Kristo) occupies a large area where the biggest slave market (soko la watumwa) of Zanzibar used to be; the construction of the cathedral was in fact intended to celebrate the end of slavery after the British called for its end. The altar is said to be in the exact place where the main whipping post of the market used to be. In the square there is a well-known monument to the slaves on slavery.

Zanzibar was unfortunately the epicentre of the notorious slave trade from the 18th to 19th century CE, where more than 3 million slaves were traded to Europe and North America. The slave market is a very well-documented museum, although there are more words than artefacts but the posters give a good recitation of slavery in Africa. Slave trade was started by the British because Zanzibar sits in the centre of the trade wind spots around the Indian Ocean, and ironically and incredibly it was also ended by the British. I would easily say that this is the highlight of my visit to Zanzibar.

Darajani Market (Darajani Soko)

A fantastically energetic open and roofed market, selling fresh meat and fruit produce. Some fruits, like banana and avocado, are huge!

Doors (Mlango)

The other main feature of Zanzibar is the extremely elaborate doors, many Omani or Persian in style, in almost every buildings. Most doors are very ornate and were made to show off the wealth and status of the owner, during the mercantile heydays. Many of these doors are well maintained and become photospots of Zanzibar. Some of the doors have spikes to ward off evil spirits.

The other part is to roam around the Stone Town through the alleys. The two-storey houses in the town show common features of long narrow rooms disposed round an open courtyard, reached through a narrow corridor, and are distinguished externally by these elaborately carved 'Zanzibar’ doors, and some by wide verandas, and by richly decorated interiors.

Eat and Drink

The Forodhani night barbecue market is the place to be with the local roasts and barbecues the main draw. Also try the sugar cane juice. Food price are very reasonable.

Getting There and Around

I reached Zanzibar by ferry from Dar Es Salaam (Mzizima), which is a two-hour ferry ride costing USD $70 round trip, Once you reach the Zanzibar ferry pier, the entire Stone Town is walkable. The Slave Site entrance fee is $5. Zanzibar deserves a day or two of visit.