有隐藏走廊的法国历史和美食中心 - 里昂历史遗迹 872；比利时和法国钟楼 943；法国人的美食00437；长棍面包的手工知识和文化 01883
什么和为什么
与普遍的看法相反，法国（法语：France）的美食中心不是巴黎（Paris），而是里昂（Lyon）。 里昂甚至被联合国教科文组织列为“美食创意城市（Creative City of Gastronomy）”。 该市的人均餐馆数量显然比法国任何其他城市都多，远远超过巴黎。 除了在烹饪界的名声之外，它还是一个重要的历史贸易中心，在文艺复兴（Renaissance）时期的丝绸业、后来的银行业和印刷业以及近代的电影业中发挥着至关重要的作用。 作为一个主要的贸易中心和前省会，它拥有各种美丽的建筑风格，并展示了从中世纪（英语：Middle Ages）、文艺复兴到现代不同时期保存完好的建筑。
地名
里昂这个名字源于高卢语形式“Lugdon”，后来被缩写为“Luon”。 在罗马帝国（拉丁语：Imperium Romanum）时期，这个名字被拉丁化为 Lugdunum。 词干“lug”的意思是“光”或“乌鸦”，而词干“dun”来自拉丁语“dunos”，意思是“山丘”。 这个名字可能指的是这座城市建立于富维耶（Fourvière）山上的一座山。
看
里昂建在两条河流的交汇处：东边是较为著名的罗纳河（Rhône），西边是索纳河（Saône）。 主要的历史遗迹位于索纳河两岸以及两条河流之间的一小片土地半岛（Presqu'île）地区。
圣让街（Rue Saint-Jean），牛肉街（Rue du Bœuf）
如上图所示的圣让街（Rue Saint-Jean）和位于市中心的平行街道牛肉街（Rue du Bœuf）是两条充满历史和文化气息的标志性街道。 这两条迷人的街道蜿蜒穿过城市充满活力的老城区（Vieux Lyon），其鹅卵石小路和中世纪建筑让游客仿佛回到过去。 街道上点缀着迷人的手工艺品商店和沿着古老建筑的令人愉快的咖啡馆，这条街道体现了里昂文化遗产的精髓，尽管许多商店只是外国老板开设的旅游陷阱。 圣让街曾经是这座城市的政治和商业中心，并且直到今天仍然是欧洲最大的文艺复兴街区之一，因此牛肉街显得相对安静，但可能更具吸引力。
司法宫（Palais de Justice）
司法宫（Palais de Justice）是一座历史悠久、具有纪念意义的建筑，位于索恩河右岸。 该建筑被认为是法国最精美的新古典主义（意大利语：neoclassicismo）建筑之一，被昵称为“二十四柱宫殿（Palais des vingt-quatre colonnes）”。 该建筑是里昂的法院。
里昂圣若翰洗者主教座堂（Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Lyon）
里昂圣若翰洗者主教座堂（Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Lyon）是一座罗马天主教堂，供奉施洗者圣约翰 (希伯来语：יוחנן המטביל)。 该教堂于公元十二世纪末在一处废弃的教堂遗址上开始建造，花了近三百年才完工。 该大教堂以其融合的建筑风格而闻名，其外观为哥特式（德语：Gotik），内部为罗曼式（Romanesque）。 教堂前的广场是里昂人的主要聚集地点。
每年十二月，里昂都会举办一年一度的灯光节（Fête des Lumières）。 该活动可以追溯到公元十七世纪中叶，旨在庆祝和感谢里昂的守护神圣马利亚（阿拉姆语：מרים）。 在为期一周的节日期间，里昂的每家每户都会在窗户上放置点燃的蜡烛或灯，让整个城市呈现灯火辉煌的景象。 大教堂的正面上演着一场现代灯光秀。 由于我们是在夏天来的，所以没能赶上这场演出。
护戒堂（Manécanterie）
大教堂旁边，除了那些罗马建筑外，还矗立着这座城市最古老的建筑之一—护戒堂 （Manécanterie）。 这个名字的意思是“教区唱诗班学校”，是大教堂的一部分，作为餐厅，然后作为教堂的唱诗班学校。 它建于公元十一世纪，融合了哥特式和罗曼式风格，但外观以罗曼式为主。 它目前作为大教堂的一个小型博物馆。
社区通道（Traboules）
里昂作为法国的大城市，其实并没有一座能够代表这座城市的标志性建筑。 另一方面，里昂真正的标志性建筑实际上隐藏在被称为社区通道（traboules）的建筑物内。 社区通道是通过建筑物或建筑物群连接街道的走廊，通常经过庭院。 社区通道最初的设计目的是为运输丝绸和纸制品提供遮蔽，避免它们被雨淋湿，其概念很大程度上受到意大利（意大利语：Italia）佛罗伦萨（意大利语：Firenze）的影响。 如今，社区通道已经成为里昂独特的建筑杰作。
小巷可以通向楼上，甚至可以成为地下隧道，但都通向中央庭院。 真正的里昂人会熟悉所有这些小通道，以便快速地从一栋建筑物走到另一栋建筑物，再穿过另一栋建筑物。 虽然大多数社区通道属于私人财产和公寓，但大多数社区通道在白天都向游客开放或向公众开放。
所有的社区通道均位于老城区。 社区通道一词源于通俗拉丁语“trabulare”，意为“穿过”。
交易庙（Temple du Change）
该市以前的证券交易所交易庙（Temple du Change）建于公元十七世纪中叶。 这个地方被称为“庙”，因为它已被新教徒占领，并从公元十九世纪初开始被用来进行礼拜。 纪念碑前的广场是当地人的另一个主要聚集地。
加达涅（Gadagne）
加达涅（Gadagne）是一座历史悠久的建筑，内设两座博物馆：里昂历史博物馆（Musée d'Histoire de Lyon）和世界木偶博物馆（Musée des Marionnettes du Monde）。 该博物馆建于公元十六世纪初，但于公元十六世纪中叶由加达涅家族重新设计。 加达涅家族十分富有，以致里昂当地有这样一句俗语：“富如加达涅（riche comme Gadagne）”。
贝勒库尔广场（Place Bellecour）
虽然大多数旅游地标都位于索恩河右岸，但主要城市广场贝勒库尔广场（Place Bellecour）却位于半岛区。 该广场是欧洲最大的广场之一，并且完全为步行广场。
中心雕像是路易十四（Louis XIV，本名 Louis de Bourbon）的骑马雕像，他的脚下是两尊索纳河和罗纳河的寓言雕像。
我来到这个广场的唯一原因，很简单，就是陪老婆逛逛广场周围集中的奢侈品商店。 与如今的许多旅游景点类似，广场上有一个巨大的摩天轮，但许多当地人认为它很不美观。
市政厅（Hôtel de Ville）
里昂市政厅（Hôtel de Ville）是一座古典的历史古迹。 虽然它是这座城市的主要地标，但它的特色在于它的钟楼。 公元2005年，其钟楼被列入比利时和法国钟楼的世遗名单。
拉莫厅（Salle Rameau）
拉莫厅（Salle Rameau）是一座美丽的市政厅，曾经是该市的主要音乐厅。 壮观的外墙装饰有两幅马赛克（英语：mosaic），一幅代表波吕许谟尼亚（希腊语：Πολυύμνια），她是主宰赞美诗和哑剧的缪斯（拉丁语：muses）女神，也是摩涅莫绪涅（希腊语：Μνημοσύνη）和宙斯（希腊语：Ζεύς）的女儿；另一位是欧忒耳佩（希腊语：Εὐτέρπη），她是主宰音乐的缪斯女神。
Montée du Gourguillon
Montée du Gourguillon is a series of uphill scenic streets that lead from Rue Saint-Jean to the hill at Fourvière. The word 'montée' means 'climb' in French while the word 'gourguillon' derives from the Latin word 'gurgulio', which is an onomatopoeia of the sound of rainwater gushing down the slope. The slope brims with a Renaissance vibe and it was said that the entire Lyon silk industry started from one of the streets of this slope. It was claimed that the industry started at Impasse Turquet, a cul-de-sac named after Étienne Turquet, who founded the silk industry in 1536 CE.
Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière (Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière)
Atop the Fourvière mountain stands the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière (Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière), which is a church dedicated to Mary. The church was built int he late 19th century CE through private funding. The name Fourvière came from the French words 'forum vieux' meaning 'old forum' as it was the site of a Roman forum. The basilica architecture is famous for its eclectic styles: it combines Gothic, Romanesque, classical and Byzantine architectures, which is mostly found in the basilica interior. Due to its massive size and four towers, the basilica is nicknamed an upside-down elephant (éléphant renversé).
The basilica is part of the Via Podiensis of the Saint James's Way (Spanish: Camino de Santiago), as blogged in Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, although this basilica does not form part of that WHS.
Metallic tower of Fourvière (Tour métallique de Fourvière)
A 100-m tall metal tower that bears close resemblance with the famed Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel), the tower is actually three years older than the Eiffel Tower. This tower stands near the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière at the highest point of the city.
Ancient theatre of Fourvière (Théâtre antique de Lyon)
There are two well-preserved Roman theatres up in Fourvière, which are the most important remnant of the Roman city of Lugdunum dating back to 15 BCE. The theatre is still used for various cultural festivals.
Buy and Do
Guignol
The puppet show Guignol is a cultural icon in Lyon and represents one of the most famous puppet traditions in the world. Originating in the early 19th century CE from the silk industry, the Guignol puppet theatre is an important performance art that has become an essential part of Lyon’s cultural heritage.
The puppetry was developed by Laurent Mourguet who was a former silk worker in Lyon as a form of street entertainment. Initially a dentist, he used puppetry to distract his young patients and eventually made it his main profession. His theatre contents surrounded the everyday struggles of the working class in Lyon, stemming from Mourguet's own experiences as a silk worker (canut). The plays often contained humour, social criticism, and political satire, making them both entertaining and thought-provoking. Hence the performances were appreciated by both adults and children.
The main character of the show is Guignol, as above, who was designed to represent the Lyonnais working-class spirit of Lyon: financially struggling, but witty, moral and resilient. He is usually accompanied by his wife Madelon and his friend Gnafron. His antagonist is usually the gendarme, who is a representation of authority, often ridiculed in the plays.
Traditional Guignol shows are usually performed in small wooden theatres, featuring colourful sets and exaggerated puppet gestures. The language of the plays is Lyonnais dialect, although modern performances have often adapted to standard French. In a sense, the play has also become the main preservation means of the Lyonnais dialect.
The most famous theatre is Théâtre la Maison de Guignol, easily the best place in Lyon to watch an authentic Guignol performance. A definite unmissable activity in Lyon.
Eat and Drink
Bouchon
Lyon is widely regarded as the gastronomic capital of France, and one of its most cherished culinary traditions is the bouchon. A bouchon is a traditional Lyonnais restaurant that serves hearty, homemade dishes reflecting the city's working-class history. These establishments are not just about food: they represent Lyon’s cultural identity, warm hospitality, and communal spirit.
The bouchon culture dates back to the 17th century CE, when Lyon was a thriving silk production centre. Silk workers needed affordable, hearty meals, which were provided by small, family-run eateries. These eateries were run by mainly women, known as Lyonnais mothers (mères lyonnaises) who played a crucial role in shaping bouchon cuisine. These skilled female cooks, many of whom had worked in aristocratic households, opened their own restaurants later, blending refined cooking techniques with home-style dishes and turned them to modern bouchon dishes.
The term 'bouchon' is believed to come from the old Lyonnais word for a bundle of twigs (bousche), which were hung outside these local eateries to symbol it as a place serving food. Bouchons are generally cozy and lively establishments with a strong sense of community. A signature of bouchons is their red-and-white checkered table-cloths and rustic furnitures. The restaurants are generally small and cheap, with closely arranged tables to encourage communal dining and conversations. Most importantly, unlike typical fine-dining restaurants serving the famed French cuisine (cuisine française), bouchons focus on generous portions and local ingredients and flavours, while the dishes are devoid of elaborate presentations as mentioned in our blogged Reims.
There is a now an official list of bouchons in Lyon, under the certification by L'Association de Défense des Bouchons Lyonnais. These certified restaurants receive the title 'Les Authentiques Bouchons Lyonnais' and are identified with a plaque showing Gnafron, Guignol's gourmand friend. Even with the recent tourist boom, a typical meal from a bouchon would cost only around EUR 20€.
Here is a list of typical must-try Lyonnais bouchon specialties to savour:
Lyonnais salad (salade lyonnais): a salad with mustard dressing;
chicken liver cake (gâteau de volaille);
tablier de sapeur: deep-fried tripe;
quenelle de brochet: ground fish in quenelle-shaped dumpling;
pot-au-feu: beef and vegetable stew;
Saint-Félicien: Lyon local cheese;
angel wings (bugne): crispy ribbon snack.
Travel Suggestions and Logistics
Lyon is well connected with an international airport and its public transport is excellent. Many people also connect Lyon with a trip to Geneva (Genève) or Annecy which is around two hour drive away. It is recommended to spend three to four days to enjoy everything, especially the food in Lyon.
UNESCO Inscriptions
The long history of Lyon, which was founded by the Romans in the 1st century B.C. as the capital of the Three Gauls and has continued to play a major role in Europe's political, cultural and economic development ever since, is vividly illustrated by its urban fabric and the many fine historic buildings from all periods.
Twenty-three belfries in the north of France and the belfry of Gembloux in Belgium were inscribed in 2005, as an extension to the 32 Belgian belfries inscribed in 1999 as Belfries of Flanders and Wallonia. Built between the 11th and 17th centuries, they showcase the Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles of architecture. They are highly significant tokens of the winning of civil liberties. While Italian, German and English towns mainly opted to build town halls, in part of north-western Europe, greater emphasis was placed on building belfries. Compared with the keep (symbol of the seigneurs) and the bell-tower (symbol of the Church), the belfry, the third tower in the urban landscape, symbolizes the power of the aldermen. Over the centuries, they came to represent the influence and wealth of the towns.
The gastronomic meal of the French is a customary social practice for celebrating important moments in the lives of individuals and groups, such as births, weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, achievements and reunions. It is a festive meal bringing people together for an occasion to enjoy the art of good eating and drinking. The gastronomic meal emphasizes togetherness, the pleasure of taste, and the balance between human beings and the products of nature. Important elements include the careful selection of dishes from a constantly growing repertoire of recipes; the purchase of good, preferably local products whose flavours go well together; the pairing of food with wine; the setting of a beautiful table; and specific actions during consumption, such as smelling and tasting items at the table. The gastronomic meal should respect a fixed structure, commencing with an apéritif (drinks before the meal) and ending with liqueurs, containing in between at least four successive courses, namely a starter, fish and/or meat with vegetables, cheese and dessert. Individuals called gastronomes who possess deep knowledge of the tradition and preserve its memory watch over the living practice of the rites, thus contributing to their oral and/or written transmission, in particular to younger generations. The gastronomic meal draws circles of family and friends closer together and, more generally, strengthens social ties.
The baguette is the most popular kind of bread enjoyed and consumed in France throughout the year. The traditional production process entails weighing and mixing the ingredients, kneading, fermentation, dividing, relaxing, manually shaping, second fermentation, marking the dough with shallow cuts (the baker’s signature) and baking. Unlike other loaves, the baguette is made with only four ingredients (flour, water, salt and leaven and/or yeast) from which each baker obtains a unique product. Baguettes require specific knowledge and techniques: they are baked throughout the day in small batches and the outcomes vary according to the temperature and humidity. They also generate modes of consumption and social practices that differentiate them from other types of bread, such as daily visits to bakeries to purchase the loaves and specific display racks to match their long shape. Their crisp crust and chewy texture result in a specific sensory experience. The baguette is consumed in many contexts, including during family meals, in restaurants, and in work and school cafeterias. The production process is primarily transmitted through work-based training, combining school courses with work experience in a bakery. This apprenticeship enables future bakers to acquire the necessary knowledge of the ingredients, tools and process.
References
Comments
Please share your thoughts and comments about the blog. If you need suggestions to build a travel itinerary, please let me know. More than willing to help. I would also like to build a bespoke-in-depth travel community around UNESCO WHS and ICH.
Comentarios